New User, Blowing Fuses!

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Nevermind, I am stubborn, I will fix this if this is the last thing I do (hopefully not, but electronice ARE dangerous)...

Anyways, do you guys know of a source for IRFZ44A fets, marked with a stylized F? also have 950 printed on them (dunno if that's the date code or what)

Also, do I have to replace all 4 of those, or just the one that cracked, or the one that cracked plus the one grouped with it...

The really sad thing is... I think it's my fault. I forgot to plug the connector back into the audio board...
 
Mouser.com part number:
844-IRFZ44PBF

Replace all 4.

Check the audio output transistors before ordering parts.

When you reconnect it to power (after replacing the FETs), insert a 10 amp fuse in series with the B+ line to help protect the new parts. Have the transistors clamped tightly to the sink. Make sure none of the insulators between the transistors and the sink are damaged.
 
Which ones are the output transistors?

The ones marked FMG22R with a -|<->|-?
The ones marked FMG22S with a ->|-|<?
The larger ones marked K B688?
The other Larger ones marked K D718?

I'm confused. So many different transistors, so little time.

And only 10 amp? I was told 25...

And yes, they are all clamped, and I replaced the factory pads with some Arctic Silver CPU greese, since I just happened to have a few syringes of it laying around (I'm a Geek and a Dell technician... it's just kinda my thing)
 
All of the larger devices in this amp are outputs. The FMG parts are rectifiers.

You can't use the arctic silver alone. You must have an insulator. The arctic silver is only a thermal compound, not an insulator. If you didn't have any insulators, that's likely the reason the FETs failed.

The 10 amp fuse is there to protect the components in case there is a problem. You'd need something larger for normal operation but you should use the 10 amp while troubleshooting.
 
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