New sub design? Constricted Transflex, simple build (series tuned 6th order)

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Giving birth to new combinations of old ideas ... HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY! =D

fwiw I once added a cavity to the top of a K's front chamber - Clements H-Pas
seems to be a re-naming of his earlier patent - guess these days easier to simulate
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Freddi ,
Yep , that looks about right .... In your sketch it looks like you have the parasitic chamber's vent placed just after the main vent in the baffle? That does work in sim, and i think this method makes the front chamber seem larger, and does an exceptional job of controlling excursion ...... I also tried connecting the chamber to other areas such as immediately before the main vent (as in the H-PAS patent) which works well and last but not least i tried having the parasitic chamber's vent placed near the driver (S2-ish in HR-speak ) similar to the TC-Karlflex that i built recently and these latter options do have a nice flat response but compromise a small amount of cone control (only giving up about one quarter of one millimeter, no big deal)...
 

Attachments

  • TRI-CHAMBER-KARLFLEX-PA-310-38V-VERSION COMPARE-ROUGH-LAYOUT.PNG
    TRI-CHAMBER-KARLFLEX-PA-310-38V-VERSION COMPARE-ROUGH-LAYOUT.PNG
    35.6 KB · Views: 398
  • TC-KARLFLEX-INTERNALPARASITIC -90l-ish-PA-310-38V (STAYS UNDER 5.75mm XMAX).PNG
    TC-KARLFLEX-INTERNALPARASITIC -90l-ish-PA-310-38V (STAYS UNDER 5.75mm XMAX).PNG
    40.8 KB · Views: 396
I like the idea of flat response - - are you going to make a new simplified Karlflex? what do you see for "need" of front chamber volume in akabak with the 12" PA310? is there a sweet spot of not too much/not too little? Karlson's K12 from 1954 had around 0.6 or so cubic foot front chamber and around 1.2 cubic foot rear chamber.
 
Chamber drinking game (take a shot every time you see the word "chamber") =P

I like the idea of flat response - - are you going to make a new simplified Karlflex? what do you see for "need" of front chamber volume in akabak with the 12" PA310? is there a sweet spot of not too much/not too little? Karlson's K12 from 1954 had around 0.6 or so cubic foot front chamber and around 1.2 cubic foot rear chamber.




Freddi,
Absolutely , the next Karlflex i build will be simple compared to the last .....



I am finding out that i really like what this sort of front chamber can do, after some listening tests i can hear how the front chamber helps to reproduce certain percussive sounds in a way that is very realistic and dynamic. This front chamber is tuned pretty high (around 500hz-ish in the Karlflex i just built) so i am noticing it's effect mainly in the snare drums of certain tracks (or other snappy transient sounds in that range).... Cool !:cool: Vocals sound a little aggressive at times but the next build will be more balanced ...



I am sure i still have some things to learn about the nature of the front chamber in a K-cab but i do have some initial observations and impressions ...... As far as I can tell (with Akabak simulations) there can be some flexibility in front chamber volume depending on a few things like where the front chamber needs to be tuned and how much midbass/midrange augmentation is preferred , and also how much of the rear chamber you are willing to sacrifice to the front chamber (output at FB versus midbass/front chamber gain) , it is a balancing act and it seems to me (so far) that the ideal ratio can vary depending on the driver (largely because of the back chamber volume requirements based upon factors like the driver's VAS figure and motor strength etc) ................................As far as bandwidth is concerned: due to the nature of being a bandpass box you are still affected by bandpass cutoff on the high end but with the K-slot you can really push the limits, especially if the baffle is angled back or laid back allowing the driver to get physically closer to the opening (your suggestion).... I was able to verify some amount of extra extension on the high end with the Akabak model when the baffle was pulled forward on the bottom (where the driver is located), but pushed back on the top where the vent is (maintaining the same front chamber volume), this of course isn't necessary in a subwoofer application (as in the Lab15-4 or Alpines) but with the PA-310 trying to reach toward the 1k mark this laid back baffle mod can be beneficial ....



FRONT CHAMBER SIZE:
60 liter Karlflex - 13.5" outer width, 24" tall = Front chamber's internal volume is no more than around 13 liters (.46 cubic feet) estimated with a little extra volume provided by driver's cone depth ....... This also applies to the taller 90L experimental version with the parasitic chamber that i built (which was a worthwhile experiment, but i think there is a better way to build this now).......

90 liter Karflex – 19” outer width and 24” inches tall = Front chamber's internal volume is no more than about 19 liters (.67 cubic feet) if built according to the most current detailed sketch which included the instructions to increase cabinet width by 1.5x (fits 15" drivers) ............... If someone really wanted to they could easily adapt this box to include a larger front chamber as Mattcalf did in his 3D sketch from post #1306 ....

Yesterday I tried simulating the PA-310 in the 19" wide by 24" tall cabinet (without any parasitic chambers , just a plain 1.5x width Karlflex, nice and simple) , and :eek: to my amazement it actually looks pretty good , i never thought i would get 118.5 db at 45hz (and 118 at 40hz) out of a humble PA-310 (without excursion getting way out of bounds, perhaps the K-tech is really helping to manage things in this regard *shrug*) , better output than what i can get from the other 90L cab sims (the ones that included parasitic resonator chambers) with only a very slight loss in cone control ....Seems like the PA310 really just needed some more raw back chamber volume ..... I am going to look over these sims some more to make sure i am not missing some important detail .....

Will post again soon, as i also have some more observations about my experiments with these parasitic chambers, i think they could really be useful in certain scenarios (but i may skip them in my next build) ..
 
Last edited:
FreddiTech works! Karlflex with FreddiTech mod

Freddi ,
This is my answer to your sketch in post #1320

I think you will like this :D

I toyed around with the idea in Akabak and found that your extension to the front chamber can act like a quarter wave stub, and at around 30 to 35cm in length it does a nice job of taming the 5th harmonic ripple! The 3rd harmonic is already suppressed with this Karflex design because of the offset driver, but the 5th and higher harmonics can be a problem in an extended bandwidth design like we are attempting to create with this PA-310 driver (we wouldn't worry about getting any higher than 240hz with the Alpine or LAB15 drivers , but with the PA-310 we can reach much higher) .... With this mod there is a considerably smoother transition from the upper pipe harmonics into the range where the front chamber starts to add gain and augment the output ... I will post the Akabak response charts later for comparison when i get back on my Akabak computer:)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Last edited:
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Stubs work very well in Akabak - I have a hip pocket number I use to design them. I make a stub about 1 in to 2in high x width of box x 12in long for every 280Hz peak I want to suppress. Scale length for frequency so 24in for 140Hz, etc. I use the "Duct" element with those dimensions and add it strategically in spots where it is possible to add a stub as a fold without impacting then box geometry too much. Set viscosity in stub equal to 30 or so. It's amazing what that little bit of stub can do. I have seen it knock down a killer 15dB spike.
 
Stubs work very well in Akabak - I have a hip pocket number I use to design them. I make a stub about 1 in to 2in high x width of box x 12in long for every 280Hz peak I want to suppress. Scale length for frequency so 24in for 140Hz, etc. I use the "Duct" element with those dimensions and add it strategically in spots where it is possible to add a stub as a fold without impacting then box geometry too much. Set viscosity in stub equal to 30 or so. It's amazing what that little bit of stub can do. I have seen it knock down a killer 15dB spike.

XRK,

(Not coincidentally i think) That is pretty much what i ended up with, hehe :D, a "Duct" the full width of the box and around 6cm tall with some VISC to simulate stuffing ... At these frequencies (above 200hz) the stub doesn't need to be very large but it certainly is effective!
 
Hi Matthew,

I didn't phrase my response to X correctly (sorry). TD used it in his first TH the DTS-20 (see his patent). He used what he calls 4 stubs, and what looks like 2 stubs made from pvc pipe. Closed end 1/4 wave stubs. I posted that in the collaborative thread a long time ago, the pictures are from the Klipsch Forum. I like the way of using duct/viscosity in AkAbak, just didn't have a good feel for the visc #.

Regards,
 

Attachments

  • klipschforum_Chris Robinson_DTS-20_driver_pipes.jpg
    klipschforum_Chris Robinson_DTS-20_driver_pipes.jpg
    129.6 KB · Views: 226
  • klipschforum_Chris Robinson_DTS-20_driver_pipes_damping.jpg
    klipschforum_Chris Robinson_DTS-20_driver_pipes_damping.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 125
Last edited:
Hi Matthew,

I didn't phrase my response to X correctly (sorry). TD used it in his first TH the DTS-20 (see his patent). He used what he calls 4 stubs, and what looks like 2 stubs made from pvc pipe. Closed end 1/4 wave stubs. I posted that in the collaborative thread a long time ago, the pictures are from the Klipsch Forum. I like the way of using duct/viscosity in AkAbak, just didn't have a good feel for the visc #.

Regards,

TB46,
Ok , that is an interesting setup ... In these pictures we are looking through the driver access panel right? So the 1/4 wave stubs have their open ends near the mouth of the TH? Or am i looking at this the wrong way?

Yeah , the use of VISC is helpful with these quarter wave stubs, it really smooths out the resonant range of the stub in Akabak without creating much loss down at FB ... I have been using VISC=50 but maybe that is a bit much according to X ?
 
Freddi's tuned 1/4w stub is a great idea

Freddi has had many excellent suggestions that ended up being integrated into the Karflex design , he definitely has a great feel for these K-cabinets and has obviously put a lot of thought into these Karlson designs. :)

It has truly been a pleasure bouncing ideas back and forth with all of you. :)

Here are the result's of the FreddiTech stub added to the Karlflex in Akabak (an idea based on his sketch from post #1320).... One set of graphs has the standard S1 CSA and the other set has a squeezed down S1 which consistently seems to work a little better and frees up more space behind the driver just in case someone wanted to use a driver with more mounting depth, or it also opens up the possibility of having an even larger front chamber , or even a baffle that folds inwards at the midpoint for mounting two 10" drivers! ...

Mr TB46 , i have a different version of the script that uses the Clements style chamber and an extra long S1 section with expansion which was inspired by some of your sketches and sims and your suggestions of the H-PAS concept , it actually looks pretty good too ... Let me know if you want to see it ..

I can post any of these scripts if anyone wants to take them for a test drive in Akabak .. Just ask ..

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Last edited:
Hi Matthew,

Post #1330: "... we are looking through the driver access panel right? So the 1/4 wave stubs have their open ends near the mouth of the TH?..."

We are looking at the back of the driver through the access panel in Post #1329, the stubs have their open end connected through the driver baffle into the general throat area, and the other end of the pipes seems to go up inside the horn path, and those stub ends are closed.

Post #1331: "Mr TB46 , i have a different version of the script that uses the Clements style chamber and an extra long S1 section with expansion which was inspired by some of your sketches and sims and your suggestions of the H-PAS concept , it actually looks pretty good too ... Let me know if you want to see it .."

I have not been posting much in this thread lately, but I have kept an eye on it, and I'm impressed with your work, so: yes, please, post everything you would like to share. I'm still in the process of learning AkAbak myself (every now an then I think I kind of get it, but...).

Regards,
 
the idea probably belongs to KenL (Ken Lehman) who employed a nautilius type stub - me being lazy and no good at carpentry assumed a simple rectangular cavity would work. Is there a way to predict without software, roughly the size and length of the added cavity? - its one of those "Goldilocks" things :D
 
A Kappa Joe

hey MMJ - what happens if you plug an Eminence Kappa12A into your existing PA310 script?

with the limited excurion of Kappa12A, maybe a smaller box with ~50Hz extension and more in-band power handling would be better.


I can plug in the Kappa and see what happens, and yep, thats exactly what i was thinking, a smaller box with a higher tuning .... Perhaps a 60 liter Karlflex with a shorter vent length (would be simple to build) and a tuning of 50 to 55hz ..

the idea probably belongs to KenL (Ken Lehman) who employed a nautilius type stub - me being lazy and no good at carpentry assumed a simple rectangular cavity would work. Is there a way to predict without software, roughly the size and length of the added cavity? - its one of those "Goldilocks" things

Freddi ,
Your intuition was spot-on , a simple rectangular cavity works perfectly :) It definitely seems to follow a predictable pattern as far as length goes , the resonance lands basically where you would expect the quarter wavelength of a straight pipe (no taper , no expansion) to end up ... So for 120cm (around 4 feet) it gives us a resonance of 65hz , and 60cm (2 feet-ish) centers us around 130hz, and 30cm puts us around 260hz (what i needed) ...... The resonance seems to spread out somewhat, as you can see in post #1331 it not only tamed the 5th harmonic but also the 7th with only a single cavity/stub :D .....

The cavity i simulated is the full internal width of the box and it does not need to be very tall, in the sketch i depict it being around 6.3cm tall or about 2.5 inches, and it is still fairly effective even when it is made only 4cm tall but when i make it much shorter than that it doesn't suppress well enough in my opinion and the stub's ability to smooth out the response diminishes as i reduce the CSA further and further .....

According to TB46's photos Danley used PVC pipes as stubs, so the CSA was pretty low, but apparently they work ...

In post #1325 XRK mentioned his length scale (a sort of rule of thumb) for determining resonance frequency, and also how he models the cavity in Akabak ....
 
Last edited:
Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
the idea probably belongs to KenL (Ken Lehman) who employed a nautilius type stub - me being lazy and no good at carpentry assumed a simple rectangular cavity would work. Is there a way to predict without software, roughly the size and length of the added cavity? - its one of those "Goldilocks" things :D



See post 1325 - add stuffing to taste.
 
Hi Matthew,

We are looking at the back of the driver through the access panel in Post #1329, the stubs have their open end connected through the driver baffle into the general throat area, and the other end of the pipes seems to go up inside the horn path, and those stub ends are closed.

TB46,

Ok , I think i get it now, so the open ends of those resonant pipes would basically attach to the S2 section if we were modeling the DTS20 in Hornresponse ...



I have not been posting much in this thread lately, but I have kept an eye on it, and I'm impressed with your work, so: yes, please, post everything you would like to share. I'm still in the process of learning AkAbak myself (every now an then I think I kind of get it, but...).

Regards,

Ok , you got it ! I will post a script that you can throw into Akabak and use as a guinea pig for learning purposes :)

The particular sketch and script that i will attach to this post are the product of some of your ideas and suggestions .... I remember seeing some of the excellent drawings that you created a while back of different Karlflex revisions and some of them had extended and folded S1 sections that tapered down towards the closed end , and i thought i might try experimenting with that idea in Akabak ..... I also experimented with the Clements H-PAS concept that you suggested as well and it seemed to work well in conjunction with the long tapered S1 .....:yes:

I noticed some patterns regarding the excursion controlling effects of both the Clements concept and also the Augsperger-Weems method (they both accomplish some of the same goals) which i will expound upon in a later post, but i can say that in a 90 liter package this style of Karlflex with the parasitic chamber will likely have good cone control but unfortunately will (likely) be overdamped with the PA-310 HOWEVER this same 90L box could be excellent for something with a stronger motor like a Definimax 4012 .... In order to make a Karlflex cabinet with parasitic chamber work well with a PA-310 it would have to be made wider than the default 13.5" width in order to avoid being overdamped by allowing for more internal airspace (The sim i will post here is 1.2x width or 16.2" wide, about 35" tall and 112L net) . It would be a larger cab but generates respectable output from the Dayton driver ... Might be good for a set of cabs that won't need to be quite as compact or portable (these are 13% larger than the Fredditech Karlflex boxes for the PA-310).....

This sort of parasitic chamber does not seem to require much stuffing, only a very small amount, at least in this configuration...
When using this chamber the main vent can also be made surprisingly short (about half the length of a normal Karflex vent/constriction at 40hz tuning) ...

e56c2fad611cda1d9d6cf417eb459889.PNG


:wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench:


Code:
System 'TB46s 3C-KARLFLEX310'

Def_Driver  'PA310'
  dD=30cm   |Piston
  fs=44.4Hz  Vas=81.8L  Qms=8.63
  Qes=0.34  Re=5.7ohm  Le=1mH  ExpoLe=0.618


System 'TriChamber-KARLFLEX'
| vt=112L, v1=72L, fb=40Hz, v2=40L,   


|---------------------------------------------------------
| The speaker driver:
|---------------------------------------------------------
Driver 'Driver' Def='PA310' Node=1=0=18=2


|----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| The first section, (segments S1 , S2, S3) long S1 with taper (TB46 style) :
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Waveguide 'P0'
    Node=50=2
    STh=200cm2
    SMo=672cm2
    Len=82.3cm
    Conical
    |OFF
    AcouResistance  'Stuffing1'  Node=50=2 Ra=80e3Pas/m3  | Simulate moderate stuffing

Waveguide 'P1'
   Node=2=3
   STh=672cm2
   SMo=1137cm2
    Len=35cm
    Conical



Duct 'P2' Node=3=4
WD=38.28cm
HD=6.3cm
Len=22cm
Visc=1


|----------------------------------------------------------
| The "interchamber" port connecting the two enclosures:
|----------------------------------------------------------

Duct 'P3' Node=3=5
WD=38.28cm
HD=7cm
Len=3cm
Visc=1


|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| The second chamber or "parasitic" enclosure, Clements method as TB46 suggested:
|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Enclosure 'V2' Node=5
Vb=40L Qb/fo=0.5 Lb=44cm
|OFF
AcouResistance  'Stuffing2'  Node=5 Ra=99e3Pas/m3  | Simulate moderate stuffing

|---------------------------------------------
| The Aperture:
|(in this case the classic K-aperture,type #1)
|---------------------------------------------
| This first set of code defines the front chamber 
|(behind the aperture and in front of the baffle) 
| from top to bottom
|---------------------------------------------------

Duct 'P6' Node=4=12
WD=38.28cm
HD=9cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P7' Node=12=13
WD=38.28cm
HD=8.25cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P8' Node=13=14
WD=38.28cm
HD=7.5cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P9' Node=14=15
WD=38.28cm
HD=6.75cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P10' Node=15=16
WD=38.28cm
HD=6cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P11' Node=16=17
WD=38.28cm
HD=5.25cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P12' Node=17=18
WD=38.28cm
HD=4.5cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P13' Node=18=19
WD=38.28cm
HD=3.75cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P14' Node=19=20
WD=38.28cm
HD=3cm
Len=6.66cm
Visc=1

|---------------------------------------------------------------------
|The following code defines the gap width and the depth of the K-aperture 
|itself (front panel) split into 9 parts.
|---------------------------------------------------------------------

Duct 'P15' Node=12=22
WD=6cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P16' Node=13=23
WD=6cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P17' Node=14=24
WD=6cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P18' Node=15=25
WD=7cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P19' Node=16=26
WD=8cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P20' Node=17=27
WD=10cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P21' Node=18=28
WD=20cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P22' Node=19=29
WD=28cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

Duct 'P23' Node=20=30
WD=31.9cm
HD=6.66cm
Len=1.19cm
Visc=1

|--------------------------------------------------------------------
|(K-aperture in multiple parts)series tuned.
|The following code defines the radiator's positions and also refers 
|to the ducts above for their dimensions.. 
|Add a pipe character in front of radiator's code line in order to  
|close off that part of the aperture in simulation
|--------------------------------------------------------------------


Radiator 'Rad_P15' DEF='P15' Node=22            
x=0 y=28cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P16' DEF='P16' Node=23            
x=0 y=21.33cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P17' DEF='P17' Node=24           
x=0 y=15cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P18' DEF='P18' Node=25           
x=0 y=8.33cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P19' DEF='P19' Node=26          
x=0 y=0 z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P20' DEF='P20' Node=27          
x=0 y=-8.33cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P21' DEF='P21' Node=28          
x=0 y=-15cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P22' DEF='P22' Node=29          
x=0 y=-21.33cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0

Radiator 'Rad_P23' DEF='P23' Node=30          
x=0 y=-28cm z=0 HAngle=0 VAngle=0
 
Precisely

MMJ,
The Fredditech Karlflex looks great. You should build it and confirm the ultra wide and smooth bandwidth. Looks like a sub and bass horn all in one.


XRK,
I was thinking exactly that.... It should be my next build :)

I am still messing around with that Karlflex (the one with the labyrinthine parasitic chamber), it is sitting on my patio right now, still not sure if i like the sound ....... The bottom end sounds extremely tight but oddly stifled or restricted for some reason, not warm enough and not full enough sounding to me (best way i can describe it) even though it measures alright, and i am not sure if what i am hearing is due to the phase distortion that is introduced at the parasitic frequency and up for a few octaves (causing a varying phase discrepancy between the ports and driver face of no more than 90 degrees) , or perhaps it is because it is just overdamped *shrug*... Maybe it will get a little better when i remove this foam weatherstripping and actually glue the last side panel on permanently and then slap a proper Aperture onto the front... Nevertheless on the other hand this Fredditech Karlflex should not be bothered by any phase issues, won't be overdamped and has a few more decibels of output down around FB so i have a feeling i will like it much more than my first monster :p

We have some old friends from out of town dropping in and staying with us here at the house for about a week .... After they are gone i should be able to get started on the new build ....
 
Last edited:
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.