I think the research that is being greatly overlooked is how the LED Placement effects the sound quality. The LED can actually resonate on the pannel, givving poor sound. Because of this, you want to position the LED unequal distances from the edges and also be sure to round over the edges of the box in order to resude diffraction effects.
-Paul
-Paul
i want to make it clear i was only joking with Carlo
regarding the color of the power indicator he is using
for his amp.
Then i thought to myself, you know i bet there is a lot
of discussion about this choice and it's sonic merits.
I will only say that i lack the knowledge to make an
educated statement on this topic. My gut feeling is
that in blind A/B listening tests one would be hard
pressed to correctly identifiy the color or type of said
indicator being used with any certainty.
-----------------------------------------
back to Carlo's wonderful looking amp! Where are
the 1 ohm resistors tucked away? i still can't locate them!
later,
m.
regarding the color of the power indicator he is using
for his amp.
Then i thought to myself, you know i bet there is a lot
of discussion about this choice and it's sonic merits.
I will only say that i lack the knowledge to make an
educated statement on this topic. My gut feeling is
that in blind A/B listening tests one would be hard
pressed to correctly identifiy the color or type of said
indicator being used with any certainty.
-----------------------------------------
back to Carlo's wonderful looking amp! Where are
the 1 ohm resistors tucked away? i still can't locate them!
later,
m.
We've had the jokes
I was surely only joking.
I am certain noone seriously believe in
that where you put your LED (unless in the input of amp)
and whatever color it is,
have any effect on the sound.
I am also very much in doubt that
those possibilities to turn of the display
on CD-players - are really necessary.
Probably more of a way to show "how serious"
the maker of the player is about details.
A kind of marketing feature!
/halo - keeps his display visible - to see what he is playing
I was surely only joking.
I am certain noone seriously believe in
that where you put your LED (unless in the input of amp)
and whatever color it is,
have any effect on the sound.
I am also very much in doubt that
those possibilities to turn of the display
on CD-players - are really necessary.
Probably more of a way to show "how serious"
the maker of the player is about details.
A kind of marketing feature!
/halo - keeps his display visible - to see what he is playing
Jokin' about the led color?
If we use OFC cables, compare stands for the equipment, redecorate the audio room, think that some spiques are better than others, use batteries instead of mains,
why shouldn't we also think that blue leds "sound" greated than yellow ones???
On my aleph 5 I ditched those silicone stuff and used a 15W refrigerator lamp.
It iluminates the interior of the amp.
It has the "ahhhhh" effect on people that see the amp
If we use OFC cables, compare stands for the equipment, redecorate the audio room, think that some spiques are better than others, use batteries instead of mains,
why shouldn't we also think that blue leds "sound" greated than yellow ones???
On my aleph 5 I ditched those silicone stuff and used a 15W refrigerator lamp.
It iluminates the interior of the amp.
It has the "ahhhhh" effect on people that see the amp
Very nice. Having built a range of Nelson's offerings I have to say I still have a soft spot for the SoZ.
Only comments I would make are:
1 (seriously) if you do it again mount the fins of the rear HS vertically. The SoZ is a bloody furnace and you want all the help you can get!
2 (completely tongue in cheek) as a medico I can share with you that the retina actually has less blue cones than any other (this bit is actually true!). this means we are less sensitive to blue and this diminished sensory input lowers the competition in our brains allowing greater appreciation of other sensory modalities. this is undoubtedly the reasoning behind the oft quoted sonic superiority of the blue LED ............................. and I'm even sober at the moment
regards
mark
Only comments I would make are:
1 (seriously) if you do it again mount the fins of the rear HS vertically. The SoZ is a bloody furnace and you want all the help you can get!
2 (completely tongue in cheek) as a medico I can share with you that the retina actually has less blue cones than any other (this bit is actually true!). this means we are less sensitive to blue and this diminished sensory input lowers the competition in our brains allowing greater appreciation of other sensory modalities. this is undoubtedly the reasoning behind the oft quoted sonic superiority of the blue LED ............................. and I'm even sober at the moment
regards
mark
Talking about LEDs & Light
ZEN-lightenment - by Nelson Pass
A REMARKABLE solution to the
"finding power-resitors that can take the heat" problem.
Only a person of some genious creativity
can come up with ideas of this kind!
And most surprising - it works
Talking about Lights - I say: ZENLITEkirc said:Congratulation another very interesting design and good made chasis. But I'll replace the yellow led with BLUE one
best regards,
LEON
ZEN-lightenment - by Nelson Pass
A REMARKABLE solution to the
"finding power-resitors that can take the heat" problem.
Only a person of some genious creativity
can come up with ideas of this kind!
And most surprising - it works
Attachments
I have to say that life indeed is weird. I live in Rome, lived in Cinecittà a great deal of my life, I finished building a SOZ a couple of months ago (not posted yet) and I even know in person the harley biker you are talking about...cjunk said:
Sorry to post here, but you don't have any e-mail address on diyaudio. If you feel like, you could write me in private. Could be a nice occasion to exchange ideas and listen to each other SOZ. I built a BOSOZ too... something you are going to do, I suppose.
ciao,
Roberto Amato
moe29 said:
M.,
the 1 Ohm resistors are located in the rear heatsink, just below the mosfets. This heatsink
is quite heavy (about 5 kg). I tried to balance
the thermal load on the heatsinks by mounting separately the 8 ohm resistors and mosfets+1 ohm resistors.
I wish to thank you everybody for the feedback
(and for the led jokes too...)
Carlo
Nelson,
What external DAC are you using on the Sony changer?
(the group needs to be teased)
PS I've wanted an Aleph since the 3 was reviewed in Stereophile, but I had no dealers to easily audition one.
Now that I've heard my Aleph 2 clone (and not properly biased at that)
I realized that I should have taken that leap of faith a few years ago.
What external DAC are you using on the Sony changer?
(the group needs to be teased)
PS I've wanted an Aleph since the 3 was reviewed in Stereophile, but I had no dealers to easily audition one.
Now that I've heard my Aleph 2 clone (and not properly biased at that)
I realized that I should have taken that leap of faith a few years ago.
soz speakers?
System soz (50w resistors one toroid 44vac/0/44vac, AV=400, I=5.2A) and balanced line stage. I supose the power is about 5 watts (according to the Passgraphics i can reach about 7 watts.
This was my first full project. my next is going to be tube oriented-jsut for the fun of learning
Right now i have old epicure speakers (bought them in '79.
i would like to make new speakers now. I understand that i should go very sensitive ..... anyone has a good idea?
I want simple solutions for the crossover or whatever you call the pcb inside the speakers if needed( i realy would like to avoid as much as possible any electronic extra's)
I listen 91 pct to classical music: singing as well as orchestra, most of it is quite dynamic so i prefer that the speakers take this kind of jump easy.
The Epicures are/were a good choice back in the day, extremely over sensitive, with a nakamichi, howver they were so sensitive that i could never put the amp output to another setting than 5 watts (the amp had settings for 5,20 and 250 watts.
System soz (50w resistors one toroid 44vac/0/44vac, AV=400, I=5.2A) and balanced line stage. I supose the power is about 5 watts (according to the Passgraphics i can reach about 7 watts.
This was my first full project. my next is going to be tube oriented-jsut for the fun of learning
Right now i have old epicure speakers (bought them in '79.
i would like to make new speakers now. I understand that i should go very sensitive ..... anyone has a good idea?
I want simple solutions for the crossover or whatever you call the pcb inside the speakers if needed( i realy would like to avoid as much as possible any electronic extra's)
I listen 91 pct to classical music: singing as well as orchestra, most of it is quite dynamic so i prefer that the speakers take this kind of jump easy.
The Epicures are/were a good choice back in the day, extremely over sensitive, with a nakamichi, howver they were so sensitive that i could never put the amp output to another setting than 5 watts (the amp had settings for 5,20 and 250 watts.
Re: soz speakers?
Did you mean the Epicure brand of speakers, or a
speaker model named Epicure from another
company?
The reason I ask is that I still have a pair of Epicure
Model 4s but I no longer have any of the info for
them. (Impedance min/max, sensitivity, etc.)
Perhaps I could keep these as the output of my
SoZ or Aleph-X? (I haven't decided which way to
go yet.)
uvodee said:
The Epicures are/were a good choice back in the
day, extremely over sensitive, with a nakamichi,
howver they were so sensitive that i could never
put the amp output to another setting than 5
watts (the amp had settings for 5,20 and 250 watts.
Did you mean the Epicure brand of speakers, or a
speaker model named Epicure from another
company?
The reason I ask is that I still have a pair of Epicure
Model 4s but I no longer have any of the info for
them. (Impedance min/max, sensitivity, etc.)
Perhaps I could keep these as the output of my
SoZ or Aleph-X? (I haven't decided which way to
go yet.)
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