I modded this amp to run on a 16V system, played music at 18.3V and POP GOES THE WEASLE! Well all said and done 15/16 outputs fets blown and so far a couple of IC's on what I think is the control board. Surprisingly this amp was nice to take apart and my biggest ordeal will be to source the numbers of the IC's that look to be sanded off, for some odd reason. Anyone know why amp builders do this? Polo. 
I modded it because I have a dedicated dual voltage system in my car and would be expensive to switch back so instead I modded the amp to test it, worked fricken awesome. Honestly I think a output fet broke loose because when I removed the retainging clips and one of them just about fell off.. Polo..
Most of the large class D amps have regulated supplied. If this one has regulation, the outputs should not have seen any excessive voltage.
These amps and virtually all of the amps that have the power semis mounted vertically have a problem with broken legs. It only takes one output FET with a single broken leg to destroy virtually all of the power semiconductors. Sometimes the power supplies survive. If he found one that was loose after the amp failed, that's probably what caused the amp to fail.
These amps and virtually all of the amps that have the power semis mounted vertically have a problem with broken legs. It only takes one output FET with a single broken leg to destroy virtually all of the power semiconductors. Sometimes the power supplies survive. If he found one that was loose after the amp failed, that's probably what caused the amp to fail.
you should have sold it and bought a Z2 instead.
Z1 is supposed to work best with stock electrical systems. Z2 is used for maximum output with maximum input in competition systems.
it looks like this amp was also built by 3S-tech. same guys who built a lot of generic class D amps from korea. I already lost count how many amps they built (a few were DD, planet audio, power acoustik, kole audio, solid audio and lots more)
if the driver board blew, A DD dealer here told me you could order replacement boards from DD. the part numbers are sanded off since the circuit design is the IP of 3S-tech so nobody could copy it.
Z1 is supposed to work best with stock electrical systems. Z2 is used for maximum output with maximum input in competition systems.
it looks like this amp was also built by 3S-tech. same guys who built a lot of generic class D amps from korea. I already lost count how many amps they built (a few were DD, planet audio, power acoustik, kole audio, solid audio and lots more)
if the driver board blew, A DD dealer here told me you could order replacement boards from DD. the part numbers are sanded off since the circuit design is the IP of 3S-tech so nobody could copy it.
I would hardly call them Generic, they make a majority of our top-end amplifiers and the best come from Korea... BTW they make Phoenix gold also, just checked a few of my amps. I didn't want a Z2 because it is a power hog not to mention if the voltage drops below 15V they self destruct, not to mention the Z1a on 16v produced more power, Z1 never came close... DD Z1a is where it is at... Polo.
Buy a Stetsom they seem to be winning lately, and they come ready to setup for such mods, and all the IR chips are not buffed by morons trying to keep YOU from seeing their designs, and getting reasonable service locally.
Only cheap Korean amps buff chip numbers off, No one else in the world does such things. Perhaps the rest of the makers actually want you to be able to service their amps unlike Korea...
Plus the Stetsom bumps at 23,000 watts, that should put a smile on your face along with their $1,100.00 price tag a local SPLer paid for his NIB.
Save money and buy products you can get local support for, that don't hide their knockoff chip set they use. Buy South American lol lol lol...Just a FYI, as I have seen both your amp and the Stetsom. I'll buy South American any day of the week, I can get all the parts locally and they don't hide anything from me the buyer owner...Just a thought looking at your predicament of trying to figure out which chip set to use to repair that $5.00 card
PS Phoenix Gold does not grind numbers and with a simple phone call or a trip to the Phoenix Phorum and info like your looking for would be available. PG supports their customer pretty darn good over the years and still do....Best of luck my friend...
Only cheap Korean amps buff chip numbers off, No one else in the world does such things. Perhaps the rest of the makers actually want you to be able to service their amps unlike Korea...
Plus the Stetsom bumps at 23,000 watts, that should put a smile on your face along with their $1,100.00 price tag a local SPLer paid for his NIB.
Save money and buy products you can get local support for, that don't hide their knockoff chip set they use. Buy South American lol lol lol...Just a FYI, as I have seen both your amp and the Stetsom. I'll buy South American any day of the week, I can get all the parts locally and they don't hide anything from me the buyer owner...Just a thought looking at your predicament of trying to figure out which chip set to use to repair that $5.00 card
PS Phoenix Gold does not grind numbers and with a simple phone call or a trip to the Phoenix Phorum and info like your looking for would be available. PG supports their customer pretty darn good over the years and still do....Best of luck my friend...
yep those stetsom amps look pretty damn hectic inside, definately not a cookie cutter amp, and from what i understand can play full range...the board is over engineered to take the current it passes, if i remember correctly the rails were in the neighborhood of 70 volts and passing current around 100ah.
Clipped said:
They use solid brass high current inserts on the circuit board to handle the power feeds to the Fets and toroids, and yes its a high voltage amp.
The Stetsom can be cut in half right in the middle and 0 gauge feeds directly connected to the front channel, supposedly this get 0.8 Db's more power as per Stetsom.
Built in Wafer fuses that can be bypassed for max power rigs < not safe though, but SPLers are into that sort of stuff as I recall >
Should be the same little board used on the AT 5000.1, new version if anyone has one let us know... BTW Phoenix gold makes good amps and yes they do not scrub there numbers off BUT they are still Korean made, like it or not majority of quality produced amps are Korean, they do a great job with the build quality... Now as far as the Stetsom 7K goes, it is a great amp, uses all the same parts as many of the other quality built Korean amps as does american made ones BUT has a problem. When it was designed they tried to keep the size restrictions down so they created this monster board inside a small heatsink, welll it overheats, like everything else in Brazil, maybe why there women come here looking for RICH American men, j/k... . Read up, most hard hitting amps have there quarks apple to oranges.... Polo..
BTW Phoenix gold makes good amps and yes they do not scrub there numbers off BUT they are still Korean made, like it or not majority of quality produced amps are Korean, they do a great job with the build quality... Now as far as the Stetsom 7K goes, it is a great amp, uses all the same parts as many of the other quality built Korean amps as does american made ones BUT has a problem. When it was designed they tried to keep the size restrictions down so they created this monster board inside a small heatsink, welll it overheats, like everything else in Brazil, maybe why there women come here looking for RICH American men, j/k... . Read up, most hard hitting amps have there quarks apple to oranges.... Polo..
Hey I looked at one of my old PG amps X1200.1 and it has a couple of chips with a mysterious black epoxy blob on it and it came from the same manufacture 3S-Tech, lOl go figure... The set of four IC's on the above board is IRS21844S , nailed it down now to figure out the two little ones in the center... Polo..
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