I'd try to solder with thin (I use 0.5 mm diameter) solder and 0805 components on your practice boards. If you can do those reliably, you should not have issues assembling the HP-1.
In my experience solder paste always ends up making a mess if you don't use a stencil. If it works for you, great. No harm in using it. I don't have an air gun that's suitable for soldering, so I stick with thin solder and a fine tip on my METCAL.
If the end result doesn't work, we can likely debug it via email if you have the basic tools (definitely a DMM. An o'scope is nice.) If that fails, there's always the option of shipping the board to me for me to fix. I won't leave you hanging.
Tom
Thank you Tom, I really appreciate your response and offer to not "leave me hanging." I have a decent DMM but I'm not skilled in using it.
I have been successful soldering 0805 and SOD23 with .032 solder and I just received some .015 which should make it quite a bit neater. I have been using a 1.2 mm chisel tip which is OK, but I will try a slightly finer one.
I will experiment a bit more with the solder paste and hot air. If its too messy I won't use it.
I expect you'll see my order in the near future.
Brian
If you're tip shopping anyway, you may consider something along the lines of the METCAL STTC-126.
I bought my soldering station used years ago and it came with a stack of tips, including the '126. I saw people use them at work and dissed them a bit. Now I really like using it for SMD work. It is small enough that you can get in between IC pins for delicate work and the tip can be placed with a large area on the PCB pads for more contact area. I like it. It's not so useful for leaded parts. A chisel tip works better there.
Tom
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I bought my soldering station used years ago and it came with a stack of tips, including the '126. I saw people use them at work and dissed them a bit. Now I really like using it for SMD work. It is small enough that you can get in between IC pins for delicate work and the tip can be placed with a large area on the PCB pads for more contact area. I like it. It's not so useful for leaded parts. A chisel tip works better there.
Tom
What iron uses those METCAL tips?
Metcal MX series, not cheap, but very good.
For hobbyists, it might make sense to get a Hakko compatible solder station/SMT rework station from China.
Standard rework statio Saike 952D Hot air gun Soldering iron 2 in 1 220V / 110V High qualit Soldering station replace hakko-in Electric Soldering Irons from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Assorted precision tips set:
10PCS/LOT T12 Series Solder Iron Tips For Hakko Soldering Rework Station FX 951 FX 952-in Electric Soldering Irons from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Standard rework statio Saike 952D Hot air gun Soldering iron 2 in 1 220V / 110V High qualit Soldering station replace hakko-in Electric Soldering Irons from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Assorted precision tips set:
10PCS/LOT T12 Series Solder Iron Tips For Hakko Soldering Rework Station FX 951 FX 952-in Electric Soldering Irons from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Hi X,
The solder station that you link above use different tips from those that you suggest. Look what tips are offered in a "complete" set:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/store/pro...Id=144003&spm=2114.10010308.1000023.16.lXXAfB
The solder station that you link above use different tips from those that you suggest. Look what tips are offered in a "complete" set:
https://pt.aliexpress.com/store/pro...Id=144003&spm=2114.10010308.1000023.16.lXXAfB
If you're tip shopping anyway, you may consider something along the lines of the METCAL STTC-126.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I bought my soldering station used years ago and it came with a stack of tips, including the '126. I saw people use them at work and dissed them a bit. Now I really like using it for SMD work. It is small enough that you can get in between IC pins for delicate work and the tip can be placed with a large area on the PCB pads for more contact area. I like it. It's not so useful for leaded parts. A chisel tip works better there.
Tom
Thanks tom, I'll take a look at those.
One other tip for soldering passive SMT components -- resistors and capacitors. I put the component on the PCB where it should be. Then I put a tiny dab of solder on the tip of the iron and while using slight pressure to hold the component to the PCB with something pliable and small - such as a small plastic-tipped "ESD tweezer", I then touch the solder drop to the PCB pad and component. Usually that makes an OK solder joint to hold the component in place. Then, with both hands available, I use normal technique (solder in one hand and iron in the other) tosolder the other end of the component to its pad. Then I go back and redo the first joint to make it proper.
I also try not to get overly anal about not having the part exactly centered over its pads or having it slightly rotated, etc. One can do more harm, especially to ceramic capacitors, by heating-fudging-heating-fudging of the components. As you get more practice you'll be able to get things lined up more perfectly.
I also try not to get overly anal about not having the part exactly centered over its pads or having it slightly rotated, etc. One can do more harm, especially to ceramic capacitors, by heating-fudging-heating-fudging of the components. As you get more practice you'll be able to get things lined up more perfectly.
Plato make one of those angled tips for the Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station (HS-4791) and it's available from Mouser. They also do a 'well' tip for drag soldering (HS-0530)
I'll probably order a HS-4791 when I order the BOM for the HP-1, however, the HS-0530 seems a bit wide. I have been practicing soldering 0805, 0603, SOT-23 SMD along with SO14 and LQFP44 ICs. I did all these with a 1mm wide tip and in some instances it seemed a little big. It worked well for the ICs. I suppose the benefit of the 3mm wide HS-0530 is that you just load it and it will hold enough solder to complete one side in a single drag. I have seen this done in YouTube videos.
Folks,
I'm about to order another stack of enclosures and am considering a number of different colours. Before I blow $1k+ on enclosures, I figured I'd ask for your help in choosing the colour. I have narrowed the choices down to four colours: Gentian Blue, Carmine Red, Graphite, and Black. All have a slight texture to them. All will have white silk screen text and legend just as the current blue chassis.
I have a Google survey running and would greatly appreciate it if you'd let me know of your preference. I will post the survey results here. The survey is anonymous but does require sign-in to Google/Gmail to prevent multiple responses. There are two questions:
The survey is here: https://goo.gl/forms/LUEsX0WhPoKxJAww2
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tom
I'm about to order another stack of enclosures and am considering a number of different colours. Before I blow $1k+ on enclosures, I figured I'd ask for your help in choosing the colour. I have narrowed the choices down to four colours: Gentian Blue, Carmine Red, Graphite, and Black. All have a slight texture to them. All will have white silk screen text and legend just as the current blue chassis.
I have a Google survey running and would greatly appreciate it if you'd let me know of your preference. I will post the survey results here. The survey is anonymous but does require sign-in to Google/Gmail to prevent multiple responses. There are two questions:
1) Favourite of the four colours.
2) Favourite between only Graphite and Black.
If you don't have a Google account and would like to cast your vote, please just toss me a PM with your preferences.2) Favourite between only Graphite and Black.
The survey is here: https://goo.gl/forms/LUEsX0WhPoKxJAww2
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tom
Attachments
I'm curious what you base that on. Here's a measurement on the residual noise and hum.
The rest of the performance measurements are available here:
https://www.neurochrome.com/hp-1-ultra-high-end-headphone-amp/
Surely if there was a problem with the power supplies, it would have shown in the measurements.
Tom
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The rest of the performance measurements are available here:
https://www.neurochrome.com/hp-1-ultra-high-end-headphone-amp/
Surely if there was a problem with the power supplies, it would have shown in the measurements.
Tom
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