Well, heres an update on the whole situation with the amps and such... I managed to remove the output transister that was causeing the problem. I got the right one first guess. I measured the others Ohm ratings and they all seemed to go back to normal. so unless im mistaken i "Think" all i need to do is replace the One Output Transister.. I desoldered the O.T. and buttoned the amp back up, used 2 15 amp and 1 20 amp fuse (due to my lack of fuses) and got the amp to power up. I then attempted to run some audio through it and it blew all 3 of the fuses. so im wondering if mabey i didnt get all of the blown O.T.'s?
And also, heres another wonderful situation that has just occured in the past 20 mins. I finally recieved the Identicle amp to the one im fixing in the mail and it worked Great. I did have a problem with Bridging the amplifier though.. it seemed that whenever i ran the amp bridged for more than 30 minutes or so or took a sharp turn it would stop working.. so i would go and check the connections and jiggle the Inverted connection. It would start to work again. Now in the past hour I have been unable to rectify the problem. The amplifier Will Not Bridge! so... mabey some of you will have an idea as to why its doing this??? i opened the amplifier, as it is of no consequence to me, and found no burnt components that were visible to the eye on the top side of the board, except there was a extrodinaraly large amount of dark dust? but only on one side of the amp. The side that all the connections are on... im praying it wasnt soot. i went ahead and wiped it all away and all seems good on the top side as i stated before. Im going nuts, 2 broken amps in 2 weeks. Grrr.. and its not even my fault! well i have to look at the brighter side of things, when im all done ill have 2 kick *** amps pushing over 1000 Watts RMS and all i that it cost me was $40.00!
And also, heres another wonderful situation that has just occured in the past 20 mins. I finally recieved the Identicle amp to the one im fixing in the mail and it worked Great. I did have a problem with Bridging the amplifier though.. it seemed that whenever i ran the amp bridged for more than 30 minutes or so or took a sharp turn it would stop working.. so i would go and check the connections and jiggle the Inverted connection. It would start to work again. Now in the past hour I have been unable to rectify the problem. The amplifier Will Not Bridge! so... mabey some of you will have an idea as to why its doing this??? i opened the amplifier, as it is of no consequence to me, and found no burnt components that were visible to the eye on the top side of the board, except there was a extrodinaraly large amount of dark dust? but only on one side of the amp. The side that all the connections are on... im praying it wasnt soot. i went ahead and wiped it all away and all seems good on the top side as i stated before. Im going nuts, 2 broken amps in 2 weeks. Grrr.. and its not even my fault! well i have to look at the brighter side of things, when im all done ill have 2 kick *** amps pushing over 1000 Watts RMS and all i that it cost me was $40.00!
How hard were you pushing the amp when the fuses blew?
With a missing output, the amp won't be able to perform at full power. Removing the defective outputs was only to allow you to test for other damage (like blown driver transistors or power supply problems).
You need to replace at least 2 outputs. They need to match. Replacing them both with transistors with matching date/production codes (hopefully the ones you buy will have matching codes) will help ensure that they're relatively closely matched.
It would be better to replace all 4 in the defective channel but it's up to you whether you want to spend the extra money or not.
If run in stereo, will the second amp play both channel properly?
With a missing output, the amp won't be able to perform at full power. Removing the defective outputs was only to allow you to test for other damage (like blown driver transistors or power supply problems).
You need to replace at least 2 outputs. They need to match. Replacing them both with transistors with matching date/production codes (hopefully the ones you buy will have matching codes) will help ensure that they're relatively closely matched.
It would be better to replace all 4 in the defective channel but it's up to you whether you want to spend the extra money or not.
If run in stereo, will the second amp play both channel properly?
Hey there Perry, Im actually working on the second amp at this very second. Soldering iron is Heating. It seems that The Negative Terminal on the Right Channel, the Trace, while it is relatively big is not transferring current, so im about to attempt to resolder the terminal's foot back to the board, im hoping that it is just corrosion or such. So no biggy it shall be fixed in one way or another soon.
And on the note of the First amp, I had the volume on probably 5/66 im not positive about that though. Also you ,mentioned that i need to replace at least 2 on the channel. Well those parts cost like what a dollar a piece. Im Most Likely just going to end up replaceing either all of them on the channel or all of them on both channels.
And on the note of the First amp, I had the volume on probably 5/66 im not positive about that though. Also you ,mentioned that i need to replace at least 2 on the channel. Well those parts cost like what a dollar a piece. Im Most Likely just going to end up replaceing either all of them on the channel or all of them on both channels.
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