Hello Everyone,
My name is Brent and this is my very first post. I just joined the board after coming across the forum in a Google search. I am searching for help repairing my Anchor Liberty sound system. It's a fully 'self-contained' system, if that makes sense. It has an internal battery which allows it to be used without being plugged-in (it can also be used while plugged-in). The lavaliere microphone is plugged into a transmitter, which is worn on my belt or in a pocket.
Unfortunately, my system recently stopped working. The system doesn't seem to be powering on. Also, when I press the button on the transmitter pack, the green light on the back of the unit isn't lighting up. The internal battery has been checked, and it's fine. Anchor no longer repairs this model. However, the gentleman at Anchor said it sounds like the system could need new "amp cards".
I am seeking guidance in repairing this myself. I'd love to hear from anyone and everyone who can help me to repair this myself. I'd be most grateful for any and all help that can be provided. Anchor did provide me with the schematic for the system. So, if necessary, I can always e-mail it to you.
Thanks in advance everyone!!!
Best,
Brent
My name is Brent and this is my very first post. I just joined the board after coming across the forum in a Google search. I am searching for help repairing my Anchor Liberty sound system. It's a fully 'self-contained' system, if that makes sense. It has an internal battery which allows it to be used without being plugged-in (it can also be used while plugged-in). The lavaliere microphone is plugged into a transmitter, which is worn on my belt or in a pocket.
Unfortunately, my system recently stopped working. The system doesn't seem to be powering on. Also, when I press the button on the transmitter pack, the green light on the back of the unit isn't lighting up. The internal battery has been checked, and it's fine. Anchor no longer repairs this model. However, the gentleman at Anchor said it sounds like the system could need new "amp cards".
I am seeking guidance in repairing this myself. I'd love to hear from anyone and everyone who can help me to repair this myself. I'd be most grateful for any and all help that can be provided. Anchor did provide me with the schematic for the system. So, if necessary, I can always e-mail it to you.
Thanks in advance everyone!!!
Best,
Brent
turk 182: That's correct, I do have schematics, and I can provide them. I'm not back in biz, though.
Enzo: Yes, the gentleman at Anchor provided schematics, which I can provide. I'm hoping it's as simple as a blown fuse, broken power switch, or loose wire.
turk 182: I have not done this sort of thing before. I do have a multimeter. Is it possible to isolate the problem with a multimeter? If so, I can kindly ask my friendly neighbor if he'd help me try to isolate the problem. He did just this on my vacuum cleaner. He's a wonderful neighbor! In terms of how long I can go without it, I'm thinking a few weeks, perhaps a little longer.
Enzo: Yes, the gentleman at Anchor provided schematics, which I can provide. I'm hoping it's as simple as a blown fuse, broken power switch, or loose wire.
turk 182: I have not done this sort of thing before. I do have a multimeter. Is it possible to isolate the problem with a multimeter? If so, I can kindly ask my friendly neighbor if he'd help me try to isolate the problem. He did just this on my vacuum cleaner. He's a wonderful neighbor! In terms of how long I can go without it, I'm thinking a few weeks, perhaps a little longer.
Wow! Great, thanks!!! The schematic file is 1.21 MB. How do I upload the schematics here? I don't see where it allows me to attach anything to this reply. I have to take off now, but I'll be able to look through the FAQ and other places on this site a little later tonight. Yes, I can supply pictures if necessary.
The one time I ever had to repair one of these, the mains transformer was dead...
By the time I realised I should have checked for a thermal fuse in the transformer, someone had already thrown it out. I replaced it with a bigger one, as it seemed a bit underpowered, but that's judging by size.
That was on a unit without battery power, or wireless mics. Don't remember the model, sorry.
By the time I realised I should have checked for a thermal fuse in the transformer, someone had already thrown it out. I replaced it with a bigger one, as it seemed a bit underpowered, but that's judging by size.
That was on a unit without battery power, or wireless mics. Don't remember the model, sorry.
ok after looking over the schematics which are unfortunately incomplete, it's going to take some thorough examination to reverse engineer what scheme was used to produce a bi-polar supply from a single ended battery supply.
the schematic also does not show the transformer, rectifier, or supply caps (likely with the missing portion)
what is the battery voltage (if any)?
so from what you said in your first post it won't power on regardless what supply is in use?
the schematic also does not show the transformer, rectifier, or supply caps (likely with the missing portion)
what is the battery voltage (if any)?
so from what you said in your first post it won't power on regardless what supply is in use?
ok
quick test with the battery connected does your multimeter reading of the battery voltage drop when you turn the power switch on?
the other thing we need to figure out is whether there any sort of power via 120 ac and if not why...
i would be curious to know if the supply scheme supports or functions as "failsafe" as in if AC cuts out it will operate off battery power. some sort of diode steering or a switchable pass element like a transistor or triac may be in use and if that has failed no joy!
quick test with the battery connected does your multimeter reading of the battery voltage drop when you turn the power switch on?
the other thing we need to figure out is whether there any sort of power via 120 ac and if not why...
i would be curious to know if the supply scheme supports or functions as "failsafe" as in if AC cuts out it will operate off battery power. some sort of diode steering or a switchable pass element like a transistor or triac may be in use and if that has failed no joy!
at this point i need to remind myself your a novice correct?
i would suggest looking up and constructing a "dim bulb tester" in order to test this thing further.
can you confirm that the power cord, fuse and power switch are all functional?
and yes i know the stated battery voltage is 12 V dc but is that in fact what you measured?
honesty and clarity will help the process.
i would suggest looking up and constructing a "dim bulb tester" in order to test this thing further.
can you confirm that the power cord, fuse and power switch are all functional?
and yes i know the stated battery voltage is 12 V dc but is that in fact what you measured?
honesty and clarity will help the process.
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