thanks for thoses details. The sub has been given to me (free), and i realise it is not a well suited sub for the task, altough it plays well enough in a car.OK, but did it use this driver?
Regardless, reducing the rear chamber's Vb and adding a straight initial expansion increases its HF gain BW above 100 Hz at the expense of some acoustic efficiency with the length and flare frequency governing the shape of its pass-band response. Unfortunately, adding another section means the Loudspeaker Wizard is disabled, so you'll have to do it the old way of tediously comparing different input values instead of seeing it in real time as you use its sliders.
Anyway, using your dims and adding a 20" long flared section expanding to ~116.25"^2 (750 cm^2) yields a ~maximally flat half space response of ~23.7 Hz -185 Hz. Again though, the simple ducted port alignment I suggested yields more bang/buck and easier to build, but being more acoustically efficient it's ~50% bigger also, though still tiny by my standards for a 'sub'.
Note that published specs are probably off enough to render all this moot unless significant EQ is used.
GM
I may look for a better sub (Dayton's ?).
I am realy considering the Tuba HT for now. I have plenty of amps for the task (CAS II 1200w and a BGW 7000 proline 650w) so i may overpower the sub anyway
You're welcome!
OK, then since it won't cost much in materials/labor, why not build one of these designs to see if it satisfies you and report back?
WRT the tuba's power handling, below its horn gain BW it's just a sealed alignment, so up to the point where the VC overheats, it's self protecting.
GM
OK, then since it won't cost much in materials/labor, why not build one of these designs to see if it satisfies you and report back?
WRT the tuba's power handling, below its horn gain BW it's just a sealed alignment, so up to the point where the VC overheats, it's self protecting.
GM
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