Need Cabs for two Emminence KappaPro LF2 's

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/dkleitsch/sub-2way2.jpg

The two cabinets in post #34. My friend Pat selected the cosmetics, his band is into metal, grunge, etc.

Cowered by Crest CPX amplifiers, a 900 on HF, a 1500 on mids, and a 2600 on LF.

This PA does real well in a large space with 300~500 bodies in the room. Add another pair of LF cabinets if doing dance music. The dual 12+horn tops work well in smaller clubs without the subwoofers.
 
My version same design same drivers
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150522_214542.jpg
    IMG_20150522_214542.jpg
    474 KB · Views: 156
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/dkleitsch/sub-2way2.jpg

The two cabinets in post #34. My friend Pat selected the cosmetics, his band is into metal, grunge, etc.

Cowered by Crest CPX amplifiers, a 900 on HF, a 1500 on mids, and a 2600 on LF.

This PA does real well in a large space with 300~500 bodies in the room. Add another pair of LF cabinets if doing dance music. The dual 12+horn tops work well in smaller clubs without the subwoofers.


Is there a more cost effective solution in the long run than building 4 cabs needing 8 woofers? Factoring in amplifier power equirements of course.

I'll need to make some sawdust soon. I've got a small party in a local bar coming up december 2nd, probably about 100 people. 1 of these ppsl's is prbably enough, but I might build 2 boxes and pick up another pair of kappa pro LF2's after the holidays.

I'll need a new processor, the behringer DCX2496 seems popular here. I've been an ASHLY fan for larger installs but that's probably over kill for my little portable system. honestly I'll probably get the first thing I find a good deal on, if its behringer, DBX, or Ashly, I don't care but it looks like I need 48dB/oct LR filters. I'll wangt something with at least 3 inputs because aux fed subs are a must for me when doing live acts, not so much for DJ use though.

Thanks again for all the patience and advice. I picked up a new (to me) Porter Cable router this weekend, might rent a table saw just to get this job done. I could do it with my circ saw and rip fence but I'd rather pay the 40 bucks to rent a table saw from HD for a couple hours and get good consistent rips.
 
"Is there a more cost effective solution in the long run than building 4 cabs needing 8 woofers? Factoring in amplifier power equirements of course."

You have the powered Eon's for you tops, one Crest CPX1500 will give you a stereo crossover and a mono 1.5KW amp to run a single sub. These sell for less than $200 on eBay. Or something larger, a 2600 or 3800 in stereo, all the CPX series have a subwoofer crossover.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/dkleitsch/COE08-3.jpg

Note the Adcom GFA 555 in the rack, it's only rated at 325W/4Ω per channel. Each of these dual 15 PPSL are 8Ω (series 4Ω drivers), so the one amp is only 650W into four PPSL. This is plenty of power for live music, a bigger amp with a limiter is better for dance music with its droning one-note bass.

Crest Audio Tour Class V1500 Power Amp | eBay

I bought four of these for my friend Steve a while back for less than $800 (delivered).

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/dkleitsch/CoePA-2009.jpg

(Adcom out, two V1500, one V450 in)
 
Crest amps are nice. I have a mackie M3000, thought it was a good deal from a friend, only tested it out once and sold it to me for $300. I think it should do 2 of the PPSL cabs no problem (I like to leave plenty of headroom in the AMP).

I'm going to Draw up the cab in sketchup and post here for a double check on the assembly. I like to see stuff in 3D before I build it makes it go smoother for me. Then I'll make some sawdust this weekend! (hopefully, my job wrecks my schedule sometimes, on call 24/7/365)

Thanks again!
 
Here is a quick sketchup model I did. Everything Is from the cutlist in the PPSL thread linked above, except the brace in the port, which isn't there but I see it in all the cabs actually built. I assume it is the length of the Port shelf? No other bracing?

3d model shown with 1 side removed. If anyone wants the SKP file I'll be happy to share. .skp is not an allowed attachment so I'll have to .zip it I guess.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 4boxcutlist-1.gif
    4boxcutlist-1.gif
    11.6 KB · Views: 101
  • PPSLBox35hz.gif
    PPSLBox35hz.gif
    4 KB · Views: 103
  • DJK_PPSL_15.jpg
    DJK_PPSL_15.jpg
    284.5 KB · Views: 108
I extended mine up the back to meet the back of the slot. In hind sight I'd take it to the top panel and to the front, making allowance for the drive motor.

You plan could add drill holes, a neutrik connector for the slot driver, rear twin neutrik plate and maybe some rebates. I made handle into the slot then boxed them in, according to djk the depth is important not so the width.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20140824_120643.jpg
    IMG_20140824_120643.jpg
    423 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_20140823_162841.jpg
    IMG_20140823_162841.jpg
    478 KB · Views: 126
  • IMG_20150426_215403.jpg
    IMG_20150426_215403.jpg
    752.1 KB · Views: 119
  • IMG_20150426_215427.jpg
    IMG_20150426_215427.jpg
    764.3 KB · Views: 125
I'll extend the brace, though the only other area Im concerned with is the back panel, I think the plenum framing should sturdy the sides up real nice.

I'll definitely add connectors and maybe handles. one question, how did you seal the penetration through the plenum for the speaker wires? Is something like silicone caulk sufficient?
 
The brace runs down the middle of the port, across the back, and up the other side.

You may want to add a glue block around the inside perimeter of the plenum (it helps for when you drop them off a loading dock). I used a 1x1 cut diagonally, glued it, and nailed with a brad nailer.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g196/dkleitsch/COE08-3.jpg

See the line of screws on the one box?

The weight of the drivers broke the glue line, the fix being the braces with some Loctite PL adhesive and the screws.
 
Hows this look? Or I could just do Circles with a hole saw.

What about ptting somethng in the port an plenum to attach grills to, will that affect performance? I'd like to Grill the port to keep out any rodents since these will get stored in my garage. I'm not aware of any mice being in there, but you never know.
 

Attachments

  • DJK_PPSL_15_Brace.jpg
    DJK_PPSL_15_Brace.jpg
    231.4 KB · Views: 109
Last edited:


One box, in excess of 130dB, no x-max limit at 1200W.

24 x 24 x 32

Easy build (no angles), 1 and 1/4 sheet.

More output below 50hz.

Hold up.

What do you mean by "no x-max limit"?
Did you assume these drivers would run past Xmax without a problem, or are they not hitting excursion limits with 2x15"s at 130dB?

Edit - ran a sim for 2x15"s in a ported box. 10mm one-way travel gets you around 126dB @1m in 2pi. These Eminence drivers won't do that for long.

Chris
 
Last edited:
For the slot driver I put an nl4 chassis socket in and used an nl2 plug to connect the driver. I think o would use a 4 way handle design as moving them is difficult.

I'm hoping you can include all these design treaties into your cad drawing as I want to make another. My grill can attach to the boxing of the handle backing plate.
 
For the slot driver I put an nl4 chassis socket in and used an nl2 plug to connect the driver. I think o would use a 4 way handle design as moving them is difficult.

I'm hoping you can include all these design treaties into your cad drawing as I want to make another. My grill can attach to the boxing of the handle backing plate.

I'll see what I can do with the sketch up drawing. Are saying you put an nl2 in the baffle to connect the slot driver? With an nl2 plug inside the cab wired to nl4 on the back of the cab? Or maybe the other way around with the plug in the slot and receptacle in the baffle....

How deep did you box in the handle so? It looks a little more than needed to me but I don't have big hands either.

I have some nice salvaged metal grill material with about 1/4" squares openings. I don't think mice can get through it. I may just make front mounted caster boards though as I don't like casters on the sub they tend to rattle too much.
 
Hi, in the back I have 2 nl4 round chassis. On the inside they are wired to the upper driver and another nl2 chassis which is in the slot. From the slot the driver has banana plugs on a 1ft run of cable and a speakon plug into the nl2 chassis. I dont have a great pic

Need to measure the depth of the handle box i think it was 45mm.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150426_215436.jpg
    IMG_20150426_215436.jpg
    810.4 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_20150426_215427.jpg
    IMG_20150426_215427.jpg
    764.3 KB · Views: 34
I like your handle solution (I don't use handles though).

"What do you mean by "no x-max limit"?"

I mean BassBox Pro v6.0 shows that 1200W into two drivers does not exceed the published x-max for this driver. The 4Ω version has even higher x-max (than the 8Ω version).

"I have some nice salvaged metal grill material with about 1/4" squares openings. I don't think mice can get through it."

Ha Ha ha ha............., you will be sorry!

" I may just make front mounted caster boards though as I don't like casters on the sub they tend to rattle too much."

Good solution. I have some wheel boards with ratchet-straps for some other cabinets that have served me well.

I use parallel NL4's on the back of the cabinet, with the series driver (and driver polarity swap) connection made right there (whatever works for you is fine).
 
Last edited:
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.