novec said:
I'll put a separate psu for the Vgate for the moment.
I've got R-core 30 VA 2*15V. What is the best solution to supply the Vgate with?
Put the 2*15V in paraléll or using only one 15V?
Is it a great enhancement to use a separate psu for the input stage?
I'm always waiting for my LM4562 samples
I use a 5VA trafo for the 15V and use only one winding and it works very well.I don't think a separate psu for the input stage would make anything but a very marginal difference to the sound quality. I wouldn't spend any time, effort or money to such a modification.The amp sounds good enough as it is imho.
Ok, I'll leave the input stage alone then. I actually wasn't looking forward to meddling with it either... I think I'll upgrade to LM4562 though, but that's a whole lot easier 
I have a separate 15V 15VA winding for Vgate on my main transformers. That's one advantage of having them custom made, and it hardly cost more than off-the-shelf items.
I have a separate 15V 15VA winding for Vgate on my main transformers. That's one advantage of having them custom made, and it hardly cost more than off-the-shelf items.
novec said:Ok, I'll leave the input stage alone then. I actually wasn't looking forward to meddling with it either... I think I'll upgrade to LM4562 though, but that's a whole lot easier
I am also very interested in those 4562's if they ever will be available here in the third world of electronic components..
€6.50, is that your price for resale? If it's what you pay for it, you've been seriously ripped off: http://dk.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=93074&Row=528969&Site=DK
But since you're expecting them in by the 15th, that means you'll put 4562s on my four units, right?
I have no idea whether the different packages make any difference, but the TO-99 is a whole lot more expensive, and as far as I know, rarely used compared to DIP and SOIC. I do see the potential advantage of a shielding metal can, though.
But since you're expecting them in by the 15th, that means you'll put 4562s on my four units, right?
I have no idea whether the different packages make any difference, but the TO-99 is a whole lot more expensive, and as far as I know, rarely used compared to DIP and SOIC. I do see the potential advantage of a shielding metal can, though.
New to Class-D
Dear forum members
Audio is an old hobby of mine and I used to build my own (mind you, not design) a long, log time ago (>30 years damn.) and reading all those enthusiastic threads on this site I'd like to build an quality amp.
Partly just for fun, partly to satisfy my curiosity, partly to have something really nice(er) to hear to as an alternative to my "good old" Denon.
Since I'm new to class-d, I've done a lot of reading the last couple of months on this- an others. But still no hands-on experience so please stay with me because I'll be needing some advice...
The basic element would be two NCD1 modules, first questions are :
- Should this be in two separate housings to prevent interference or as dual-mono in one 19" rack ?
- Can Iron be used or should it be all-alu/copper
- Amplimo's : 2x42V for max power or 2x40v to be on the safe side
- Is 800VA enough or is larger better, hence 1000VA ? Lars ?
- Is Lar's rather simple approach to rectifying a sign of pure quality, is it sufficient or are additional filter and/or bypass caps over the diodes necessary ? (http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi_04.htm)
I know the questions have been asked and answered time and again but I would appreciate you comment in specific regard to the new NCD1.
Regards, Eric.
Dear forum members
Audio is an old hobby of mine and I used to build my own (mind you, not design) a long, log time ago (>30 years damn.) and reading all those enthusiastic threads on this site I'd like to build an quality amp.
Partly just for fun, partly to satisfy my curiosity, partly to have something really nice(er) to hear to as an alternative to my "good old" Denon.
Since I'm new to class-d, I've done a lot of reading the last couple of months on this- an others. But still no hands-on experience so please stay with me because I'll be needing some advice...
The basic element would be two NCD1 modules, first questions are :
- Should this be in two separate housings to prevent interference or as dual-mono in one 19" rack ?
- Can Iron be used or should it be all-alu/copper
- Amplimo's : 2x42V for max power or 2x40v to be on the safe side
- Is 800VA enough or is larger better, hence 1000VA ? Lars ?
- Is Lar's rather simple approach to rectifying a sign of pure quality, is it sufficient or are additional filter and/or bypass caps over the diodes necessary ? (http://www.zero-distortion.com/techno/powersupply/powersi_04.htm)
I know the questions have been asked and answered time and again but I would appreciate you comment in specific regard to the new NCD1.
Regards, Eric.
Re: New to Class-D
I think Lars recommends non-magnetic material due to the way the output cores are mounted, but with the base aluminum plate that comes with the modules, I honestly don't think the difference would be that significant. But any serious audiophile would tell you this little difference is audible, and so is separate enclosures.
wtfaidh said:
I think Lars recommends non-magnetic material due to the way the output cores are mounted, but with the base aluminum plate that comes with the modules, I honestly don't think the difference would be that significant. But any serious audiophile would tell you this little difference is audible, and so is separate enclosures.
Re: New to Class-D
Hi Eric
wtfaidh said:
Hi Eric
- Either approach is fine ... my approach will be to feed both NCD1's from 1 PS
- Au is always better, if available
- The tranny I am using is a 1KVA 40-0-40, giving about 200 watts
- 800VA is fine ... I am using a 1KVA tranny
- My approach is Lars approach plus zero-distortions approach plus Carlos's extra snubbing approach
[/list=1]
hope this is helpful
KL
Hi Eric
I have build a pair of Zap's, and find the sound amassing.
This is a mixture of my own experiences and a short review of some of the post's inhere
The power supply is quite important.
800W/2*400W is minimum, 42V is fine, no need to be on the safe side ;-) . 2*10000uF of low esr cap's are enough, no need for huge banks. Best caps are http://www.dnm.co.uk/capbhc.html .
For the snubber's/caps over the bridge, there seam to be no consensus, some say it work's other that it actual add some noise to the system.
The rectifiers seam not to be of great importance
Short interconnections from the caps to the module are important
I have build a pair of Zap's, and find the sound amassing.
This is a mixture of my own experiences and a short review of some of the post's inhere
The power supply is quite important.
800W/2*400W is minimum, 42V is fine, no need to be on the safe side ;-) . 2*10000uF of low esr cap's are enough, no need for huge banks. Best caps are http://www.dnm.co.uk/capbhc.html .
For the snubber's/caps over the bridge, there seam to be no consensus, some say it work's other that it actual add some noise to the system.
The rectifiers seam not to be of great importance
Short interconnections from the caps to the module are important
NCD1
Ok, thank you guy’s (why are there no girls in DIY ?)
· 1KVA 42v it will be.
· For the snubber's/caps over the bridge, maybe Mr. Clausen can help me here ? Lars what is your point of view in respect to the best musical quality ?
· And why two different types of power supply boards (10.000 versus 15.0000) ? is there any sonic difference or is it all about speaker-load resistance?
· Does anyone have any suggestions about full-aluminum DIY housings/cases ? Nice ones are hard to come by…
Thanks again, Regards, Eric.
PS : Hope to hear from Mr. Clausen because x-mas is over before you know it and so are my spare days ;-)
Ok, thank you guy’s (why are there no girls in DIY ?)
· 1KVA 42v it will be.
· For the snubber's/caps over the bridge, maybe Mr. Clausen can help me here ? Lars what is your point of view in respect to the best musical quality ?
· And why two different types of power supply boards (10.000 versus 15.0000) ? is there any sonic difference or is it all about speaker-load resistance?
· Does anyone have any suggestions about full-aluminum DIY housings/cases ? Nice ones are hard to come by…
Thanks again, Regards, Eric.
PS : Hope to hear from Mr. Clausen because x-mas is over before you know it and so are my spare days ;-)
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