boywonder,
I used the same Ryobi AP10 planer for 20+ years until bearing wear caught up with it..it was the 1st compact planer that gave nice results as long as 10" would do it for you. I finally retired it a couple years ago for a 13" DeWalt DW735 - very nice upgrade & it does a much better job of chiphandling (getting them to the vacuum port) than the Ryobi did.
On glueups I find it helpful to use the gluebottle with rubber roller to get a nice even coat on flat edges. I agree that reapplying a second coat just before assembly is good practice as the wood tends to steal the moisture from the 1st coat. I find it works better to use glue liberally and deal with the squeezeout rather than risk starving the joint. It helps to mask adjoining surfaces to the joint & just strip off tape with the squeezout as the glue sets up to crispy but not fully cured. A wet sponge is also handy for cleaning up just after clamp-up.
I used the same Ryobi AP10 planer for 20+ years until bearing wear caught up with it..it was the 1st compact planer that gave nice results as long as 10" would do it for you. I finally retired it a couple years ago for a 13" DeWalt DW735 - very nice upgrade & it does a much better job of chiphandling (getting them to the vacuum port) than the Ryobi did.
On glueups I find it helpful to use the gluebottle with rubber roller to get a nice even coat on flat edges. I agree that reapplying a second coat just before assembly is good practice as the wood tends to steal the moisture from the 1st coat. I find it works better to use glue liberally and deal with the squeezeout rather than risk starving the joint. It helps to mask adjoining surfaces to the joint & just strip off tape with the squeezout as the glue sets up to crispy but not fully cured. A wet sponge is also handy for cleaning up just after clamp-up.
This is all very interesting. I've invested in a Joint Genie so I can at least use dowels for joinery. It seemed a fairly simple solution and could be useful around the house for shelves, cupboards etc.
I spoke to the inventor, who used to work in the aircraft industry. He suggested 8mm dowels, 40mm long. He said that size was 90% of the market and was fine for 18mm ply.
Andy
I spoke to the inventor, who used to work in the aircraft industry. He suggested 8mm dowels, 40mm long. He said that size was 90% of the market and was fine for 18mm ply.
Andy
I did some experiments. I made some basic "L" shapes out of wood. These are just two boards joined along an edage. But I use a few different mehtods. I made some "Tees" also. I glue them up ad then the next day take a 5 pound sledge hammer and break them or maybe just sand on them.
In general most, exepmt simple nailed ungluded butt joints were stronger then the wooditself.
The absolute simplest one is I lay a pine board flat on the bench squirt a line of glue and then stand up another board on the glue and don't bother to clamp, I just use the weight of the board and let it balance standing on end. If you epoxy this is as strong as any method. Some glue types can fill gaps and some can't. Gap filling glues are worth their cost if you can't cut straight lines. Try the same with Elmers and you can snap it with your hands
One joint that is exceptional strong, compared to dados and even finger joints is batons. These are 3/4 inch hardwood sticks glued and screwed to the insides of every 90 degree joint. These double the glue area in any joint and #10 wood screws in 3" centers really do add strength. When a glue joint fails, it "zips" it stars at one point then progressively fails. The screws halt that process. So if you are not set up to do biskets or dowels and can't cut a good line, just add batons inside and the cabinet will be very strong.
The last thing I built was a wood case for a guitar amp. (It was a combo amp with a tube amp and the speaker drivers all in the same box) I used finger or "box" joints all around cut on a table saw. and inside there were 3/4" oak batons secured with #10 screws (must have used 50 screws)
The test piece was of course made the same way, the glue allowed a week to dry and testing with the 5 pound hammer broke the boards mid span and left the corners intact. It was pretty hard to break the joints
For tools I have a 35 year old Sears contractor saw and an adjustable dado blade and a hand drill.
In general most, exepmt simple nailed ungluded butt joints were stronger then the wooditself.
The absolute simplest one is I lay a pine board flat on the bench squirt a line of glue and then stand up another board on the glue and don't bother to clamp, I just use the weight of the board and let it balance standing on end. If you epoxy this is as strong as any method. Some glue types can fill gaps and some can't. Gap filling glues are worth their cost if you can't cut straight lines. Try the same with Elmers and you can snap it with your hands
One joint that is exceptional strong, compared to dados and even finger joints is batons. These are 3/4 inch hardwood sticks glued and screwed to the insides of every 90 degree joint. These double the glue area in any joint and #10 wood screws in 3" centers really do add strength. When a glue joint fails, it "zips" it stars at one point then progressively fails. The screws halt that process. So if you are not set up to do biskets or dowels and can't cut a good line, just add batons inside and the cabinet will be very strong.
The last thing I built was a wood case for a guitar amp. (It was a combo amp with a tube amp and the speaker drivers all in the same box) I used finger or "box" joints all around cut on a table saw. and inside there were 3/4" oak batons secured with #10 screws (must have used 50 screws)
The test piece was of course made the same way, the glue allowed a week to dry and testing with the 5 pound hammer broke the boards mid span and left the corners intact. It was pretty hard to break the joints
For tools I have a 35 year old Sears contractor saw and an adjustable dado blade and a hand drill.
Batons are indeed an old favourite for joinery and speakers. The downsides are poor accessibility for screwing once you're inside the box, and also the space they take up on the back of the front panel, where if you're trying to reduce the width of the front to the absolute minimum they could interfere with the back of the speaker unit. I'm sure there are fixes for all this, but I'm assuming that you screw from the inside so you don't see screws on the outside of the box
andy
andy
If I may expand upon Gary P's comment:
For a butt joint, register (locate) one end properly and spot nail it. Move to the other end of the assembly, register and spot nail it. Apply clamps @ the 1/3 points along the joint. 2 are often enough; though you may need to leave one behind at a curved "problem spot". Spot nail on both sides of the clamps. Reposition the clamps. Spot nail as needed. I use 23 gauge. The holes almost (not really) fill themselves.
Batons ( I call them corner blocks...) are good. +1
Plan the order of assembly. You will save time by including a dry run before picking up the glue bottle. Have all the glue blocks, clamps, cauls, clean-up rags etc. at your side. Don't start and THEN realize you gotta go find something you don't have somewhere else in the shop...
For a butt joint, register (locate) one end properly and spot nail it. Move to the other end of the assembly, register and spot nail it. Apply clamps @ the 1/3 points along the joint. 2 are often enough; though you may need to leave one behind at a curved "problem spot". Spot nail on both sides of the clamps. Reposition the clamps. Spot nail as needed. I use 23 gauge. The holes almost (not really) fill themselves.
Batons ( I call them corner blocks...) are good. +1
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