Hey All
So Just got me a cleaner off ebay. Not an expensive one :
NEW 6.5 L ULTRASONIC CLEANER TIMER/HEATER FREE P&P | eBay
So Ive tried some simple hand turning of a few records and I have to say the results are more than dissapointing. Essentially no better than wiping with water and isopropyl . I think this unit may be faulty or I have fallen for the hype.
I would hope its a faulty unit as if it isnt it is very poor at cleaning. I mean it has a hard timing cleaning a kitchen knife with some old pizza on it !
My advice, dont buy this cleaner try something else . I am put off by the idea now so it might take me a while to try another one....... gonna send this one back I think. Guess the seller could be on the scam as it is a chinese knock off. Even with that in mind ive been using chinese equipment for a while and its been fine just cheaper with less style.....
D
So Just got me a cleaner off ebay. Not an expensive one :
NEW 6.5 L ULTRASONIC CLEANER TIMER/HEATER FREE P&P | eBay
So Ive tried some simple hand turning of a few records and I have to say the results are more than dissapointing. Essentially no better than wiping with water and isopropyl . I think this unit may be faulty or I have fallen for the hype.
I would hope its a faulty unit as if it isnt it is very poor at cleaning. I mean it has a hard timing cleaning a kitchen knife with some old pizza on it !
My advice, dont buy this cleaner try something else . I am put off by the idea now so it might take me a while to try another one....... gonna send this one back I think. Guess the seller could be on the scam as it is a chinese knock off. Even with that in mind ive been using chinese equipment for a while and its been fine just cheaper with less style.....
D
Building In Reverse
The drive motor and the ultrasonic machine were on back order so I built the assembly for filtering the cleaning solution first. I've been using the design by bbfx as a guide. The box housing the Little Giant pump is 4.7" X 4.7" X 3.5" that I purchased from the local electronics supply house. The wood base is African Mahogany that I fabricated in my shop. I wanted to have the pump and filter on on single base base to feel more organized and to help prevent marring the surfae that they would rest on. The 90 degree brass input fitting on the pump is made for PEX water lines and had three mounting tabs on it. I cut those off with a high speed pneumatic cut-off disc and followed that with a sanding disc to smooth out any high spots. The motor arrived last week and the ultrasonic cleaner should arrive next week so more work to do soon.
The drive motor and the ultrasonic machine were on back order so I built the assembly for filtering the cleaning solution first. I've been using the design by bbfx as a guide. The box housing the Little Giant pump is 4.7" X 4.7" X 3.5" that I purchased from the local electronics supply house. The wood base is African Mahogany that I fabricated in my shop. I wanted to have the pump and filter on on single base base to feel more organized and to help prevent marring the surfae that they would rest on. The 90 degree brass input fitting on the pump is made for PEX water lines and had three mounting tabs on it. I cut those off with a high speed pneumatic cut-off disc and followed that with a sanding disc to smooth out any high spots. The motor arrived last week and the ultrasonic cleaner should arrive next week so more work to do soon.
Hi Catastrophe,
The poor man's version would be to buy aluminum tubing. You'd have to go 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID. The 1/4 is slightly smaller than a record spindle should be (9/32 is the proper size) but it should function. The ID might be a minor problem. It might require a force fit over the 1/8 shaft on the motor. a 3' length of that tubing is pretty cheap though, so it's worth a try. Such tubing is easily bent though, so you'd have to be mindful when you're handling the spindle.
Depending on where you live, you might find a local hobby machinist that could bore out the shaft on a lathe for next to nothing. Craigslist or machinist hobby forums would be a place to look for someone like that. Many of those guys like to do that kind of stuff for free!
Good luck with either solution,
B B
The poor man's version would be to buy aluminum tubing. You'd have to go 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID. The 1/4 is slightly smaller than a record spindle should be (9/32 is the proper size) but it should function. The ID might be a minor problem. It might require a force fit over the 1/8 shaft on the motor. a 3' length of that tubing is pretty cheap though, so it's worth a try. Such tubing is easily bent though, so you'd have to be mindful when you're handling the spindle.
Depending on where you live, you might find a local hobby machinist that could bore out the shaft on a lathe for next to nothing. Craigslist or machinist hobby forums would be a place to look for someone like that. Many of those guys like to do that kind of stuff for free!
Good luck with either solution,
B B
Shaft Coupling
My solution for coupling the 1/8" motor shaft to the 9/32" shaft that supports the records was to start with a flexible coupling, 4mm on one side and 8mm on the other. These are available from vendors on ebay or Amazon. I then bought 2 pieces of brass tubing, 5/32" and 5/16" with .014" thick walls. The 5/16" tubing fits into the 8mm opening and allows the 9/32" shaft fit into inside of it. The 5/32" tubing fits into the 4mm opening and in turn the 1/8" shaft fits into the inside. Using a small hack saw (6") I cut the tubing on one side followed with cutting the tubing to the proper length with a miniature tubing cutter. This will allow the tubing to squeeze down under pressure. Once the set screws are tightened, the grip on both shafts is secure.
My solution for coupling the 1/8" motor shaft to the 9/32" shaft that supports the records was to start with a flexible coupling, 4mm on one side and 8mm on the other. These are available from vendors on ebay or Amazon. I then bought 2 pieces of brass tubing, 5/32" and 5/16" with .014" thick walls. The 5/16" tubing fits into the 8mm opening and allows the 9/32" shaft fit into inside of it. The 5/32" tubing fits into the 4mm opening and in turn the 1/8" shaft fits into the inside. Using a small hack saw (6") I cut the tubing on one side followed with cutting the tubing to the proper length with a miniature tubing cutter. This will allow the tubing to squeeze down under pressure. Once the set screws are tightened, the grip on both shafts is secure.
USC Finished!
Finally, I have had enough time to finish (more or less) the frame for the ultrasonic cleaner (USC)!
Thanks to BBFTX for providing the basic design and the parts list, it really saved a lot of time. Along the way, I made a few minor tweaks to the design; that seem to be working okay.
First, instead of attaching a weight to the underside of the frame to counterbalance the weight of the records when the arm is extended, I put four thumbscrews attached buy U-type speed clip fasteners to hold the frame down to the body of the USC. Obviously, you don’t want to over tighten the thumbscrews, but with lite to moderate pressure against the USC it will keep the frame in place.
Second, I don’t own a drill press and my attempt to drill a hole by hand in the end of the shaft for the records simply wasn’t straight enough. I opted for a plastic coupling that is working fine. These can be purchased at the same online store as the pillow block and brass bearing listed in BBFTX’s parts list (Stock Drive Products). Look under “Coupling – Flexible – Slit Type in Plastic”. The closest size they have is 1/4” X 1/8”, but you can open it more than 1/4” to get it to fit over the 9/32” shaft.
Third, I chose not to put the electric motor in a plastic box but instead mounted it directly to 1 1/2” angle aluminum to reduce weight. Unfortunately, the angle aluminum doesn’t support the weight of the records without giving a little, so a support pillow block and bearing on the end of the shaft needs to be used. For this pillow block, I used the larger size bearing suggested by BBFTX in his parts list so it slides on and off easily.
I did a test wash a few days ago and noticed several pieces of cork floating in the USC, hopefully, the cork will shed all the loose pieces soon, otherwise I may try some type foam spacing as shown in other postings. Hope this gives you some additional ideas in case you would like to build your own cleaner.
HiFi
Finally, I have had enough time to finish (more or less) the frame for the ultrasonic cleaner (USC)!
Thanks to BBFTX for providing the basic design and the parts list, it really saved a lot of time. Along the way, I made a few minor tweaks to the design; that seem to be working okay.
First, instead of attaching a weight to the underside of the frame to counterbalance the weight of the records when the arm is extended, I put four thumbscrews attached buy U-type speed clip fasteners to hold the frame down to the body of the USC. Obviously, you don’t want to over tighten the thumbscrews, but with lite to moderate pressure against the USC it will keep the frame in place.
Second, I don’t own a drill press and my attempt to drill a hole by hand in the end of the shaft for the records simply wasn’t straight enough. I opted for a plastic coupling that is working fine. These can be purchased at the same online store as the pillow block and brass bearing listed in BBFTX’s parts list (Stock Drive Products). Look under “Coupling – Flexible – Slit Type in Plastic”. The closest size they have is 1/4” X 1/8”, but you can open it more than 1/4” to get it to fit over the 9/32” shaft.
Third, I chose not to put the electric motor in a plastic box but instead mounted it directly to 1 1/2” angle aluminum to reduce weight. Unfortunately, the angle aluminum doesn’t support the weight of the records without giving a little, so a support pillow block and bearing on the end of the shaft needs to be used. For this pillow block, I used the larger size bearing suggested by BBFTX in his parts list so it slides on and off easily.
I did a test wash a few days ago and noticed several pieces of cork floating in the USC, hopefully, the cork will shed all the loose pieces soon, otherwise I may try some type foam spacing as shown in other postings. Hope this gives you some additional ideas in case you would like to build your own cleaner.
HiFi
The ultrasonic machines must be coming down in price. I just paid $400USD including shipping from China to NZ for this:
Adjustable Power Ultrasonic Cleaner 6L
How high have people run the KHZ on these when in use?
Adjustable Power Ultrasonic Cleaner 6L
How high have people run the KHZ on these when in use?
Hi Steve,
I looked at your link and based on a quick view, I'd suggest don't be misled by the wording in the table of specs on that machine. Whatever machine you get, I will bet that it will operate at one frequency. Ultrasonic transducers resonate best at one frequency. There are transducer systems that can operate at different frequencies based on the harmonics of the system, but power output falls off dramatically from the primary frequency. True multi-frequency machines are generally quite expensive.
That company sells machines that can be equipped with different transducers to operate at different frequencies. What is adjustable on that machine is the power output of whatever fixed frequency transducer is on the particular unit. Note the title says Adjustable Power, not adjustable frequency.
Here is a set of tables from that manufacturer showing that they have different transducers that operate at set frequencies.
http://uploads.bjultrasonictransduc...trasonic-Transducers-Ultrasonic-Generator.pdf
If I was picking a frequency to work at with LPs, it would probably be 80khz.
Cheers,
B B
I looked at your link and based on a quick view, I'd suggest don't be misled by the wording in the table of specs on that machine. Whatever machine you get, I will bet that it will operate at one frequency. Ultrasonic transducers resonate best at one frequency. There are transducer systems that can operate at different frequencies based on the harmonics of the system, but power output falls off dramatically from the primary frequency. True multi-frequency machines are generally quite expensive.
That company sells machines that can be equipped with different transducers to operate at different frequencies. What is adjustable on that machine is the power output of whatever fixed frequency transducer is on the particular unit. Note the title says Adjustable Power, not adjustable frequency.
Here is a set of tables from that manufacturer showing that they have different transducers that operate at set frequencies.
http://uploads.bjultrasonictransduc...trasonic-Transducers-Ultrasonic-Generator.pdf
If I was picking a frequency to work at with LPs, it would probably be 80khz.
Cheers,
B B
Cheers BB i've e-mailed to seller to ensure I get 80khz I guess the price remains the same regardless of the Khz specified. No mention of Khz in the pro-forma I received.
Has anyone used grooved powered rollers either end to turn the record more like the Klaudio/ Audio club machines.
The gear template generator here might be usefull to anyone thinking about wooden construction.
Woodworking for engineers
Has anyone used grooved powered rollers either end to turn the record more like the Klaudio/ Audio club machines.
The gear template generator here might be usefull to anyone thinking about wooden construction.
Woodworking for engineers
10-12 minute cycle
For me, it's one complete revolution of the LP. With a 5 revolution/hour motor, that's about 12 minutes. For a 6rph setup, 10 minutes.
About 1/3 of the record is submerged at any moment. So, a given spot on the record will be in the bath approximately 4 minutes with a 5rph motor. (3min, 20 sec with 6rph system.) In my experience, this is plenty of time for the ultrasonic action to clean whatever it's going to clean, even on a grungy record.
Cheers,
B B
For me, it's one complete revolution of the LP. With a 5 revolution/hour motor, that's about 12 minutes. For a 6rph setup, 10 minutes.
About 1/3 of the record is submerged at any moment. So, a given spot on the record will be in the bath approximately 4 minutes with a 5rph motor. (3min, 20 sec with 6rph system.) In my experience, this is plenty of time for the ultrasonic action to clean whatever it's going to clean, even on a grungy record.
Cheers,
B B
Cancelled my order from BJ Ultrasonic they couldn't supply an 80khz machine without going to a 9 litre tank and a great deal more money. In fairness to them I've had confirmation from Paypal of the refund within a hour or so of making the request to cancel the order and stop the shipment. So probably still a very good company to deal with.
OK...I'm pouring the Kool-aid and about to drink it. I'm in on this build.
I've spent the past year or so putting together my bucket list audio system. Tube amps, Altec A5s and 604s, Technics SL1200 MkI souped up turntable etc. Thankfully I never threw out my old LPs when the CD/Mp3 tsunami hit.
With all that, I've dragged my feet about a record cleaning system.
At first, before spending $1000s on my system, $500 sounded like an awful lot of money for a record cleaner. "Can't I still just use my old Discwasher?, I whined." Then, after I made the commitment to go all the way with this thing, it was easier to justify the expense since everything sounded so amazing, the pops and crackles were obviously now the weak link in the audio chain.
Now the hesitation became which record cleaning system to hang my hat on. Everyone that owns one seems to think theirs is the best. That's all well and good, but it can't be so. I read this thread several months ago, but other bits and pieces were a priority. Now clean records have moved to the top of the list. I've always kept my records well. The first time it became necessary to use a Discwasher on a newish record broke my heart. I knew it would never be new again after that.
So I really like the idea of a 'no touch' cleaning system. I'm in way to deep to think about pinching pennies now. So I'm all in.
I downloaded the parts list for the updated version. First question: what do I need a metal lathe for? I have a small wood lathe, but not metal.
I've spent the past year or so putting together my bucket list audio system. Tube amps, Altec A5s and 604s, Technics SL1200 MkI souped up turntable etc. Thankfully I never threw out my old LPs when the CD/Mp3 tsunami hit.
With all that, I've dragged my feet about a record cleaning system.
At first, before spending $1000s on my system, $500 sounded like an awful lot of money for a record cleaner. "Can't I still just use my old Discwasher?, I whined." Then, after I made the commitment to go all the way with this thing, it was easier to justify the expense since everything sounded so amazing, the pops and crackles were obviously now the weak link in the audio chain.
Now the hesitation became which record cleaning system to hang my hat on. Everyone that owns one seems to think theirs is the best. That's all well and good, but it can't be so. I read this thread several months ago, but other bits and pieces were a priority. Now clean records have moved to the top of the list. I've always kept my records well. The first time it became necessary to use a Discwasher on a newish record broke my heart. I knew it would never be new again after that.
So I really like the idea of a 'no touch' cleaning system. I'm in way to deep to think about pinching pennies now. So I'm all in.
I downloaded the parts list for the updated version. First question: what do I need a metal lathe for? I have a small wood lathe, but not metal.
A lathe makes creating an nice spindle easier. I used my lathe to make a nice rounded nose on the spindle (minimizes chance of marring label when putting record on the spindle), and for boring the hole in the spindle to fit over the motor shaft (eliminates need for a coupling).
Looking forward to seeing your build as it progresses.
Cheers,
B B
Looking forward to seeing your build as it progresses.
Cheers,
B B