Pjotr said:
Hi SkinnyBoy,
The tweeter you mentioned is the WA10 with ferrofluid. One advice, but maybe it’s too late, go for the one WITHOUT ferrofluid: This one. I have used these ones many times and they sound way better than the ones with ferrofluid. And yes this 35 EU costing tweeter can match with ones costing many times more.
Um... yeah it is too late..
But the place I am getting the speakers from doesn't have that one anyway... If they did I probably would have ordered that in the first place... ohh well... I can always change tweeters later.. if someone buys them for me.. 
Um yes, that’s a pity. But if you are adventurous you can remove the ferrofuid with a tissue. Disassembling the unit is quite easy. The faceplate is just clicked on the magnet and the dome assembly is glued with some blobs to the magnet. The ones without ferrofluid show simply more detail in the soundscape, they sound less “lazy” IMHO.
What amps are you going to use? If you are going to make them yourself look at the chips used in the Gainclone, or the LM3875. These sound tremendously good. Also the small dimensions make it easier to avoid ground problems when powered from the same PSU. For the tweeter always use a good PP coupling capacitor between the amp. They don’t like even small amounts of DC.
What amps are you going to use? If you are going to make them yourself look at the chips used in the Gainclone, or the LM3875. These sound tremendously good. Also the small dimensions make it easier to avoid ground problems when powered from the same PSU. For the tweeter always use a good PP coupling capacitor between the amp. They don’t like even small amounts of DC.
I don't think I will be dismantling anything... I was planning, in the future, to make my own amps, but that might not ever happen.. Perhaps when I get a job.. I was planning on using the LM3886s but with slightly lower rails anyway, (+-28volts) so perhaps I will go for the LM3875. I planned on bridging 2 for each woofer, and using 1 for each tweeter... with about a 300va transformer per channel (that is per 3 ICs) but perhaps this is not a good idea, cos is the transformer voltage drops in heavy bass, the rails to the tweeter amps will also drop, causing clipping, which easily could have been avoided if I use seperate 200VA transformers... That is, one for each bridge pair, and one for both tweeter amps... or perhaps I could get away with 160va..
Perhaps when I get a job.. I was planning on using the LM3886s but with slightly lower rails anyway, (+-28volts) so perhaps I will go for the LM3875. I planned on bridging 2 for each woofer, and using 1 for each tweeter... with about a 300va transformer per channel (that is per 3 ICs) but perhaps this is not a good idea, cos is the transformer voltage drops in heavy bass, the rails to the tweeter amps will also drop, causing clipping, which easily could have been avoided if I use seperate 200VA transformers... That is, one for each bridge pair, and one for both tweeter amps... or perhaps I could get away with 160va..
I REMEMBER MY QUESTION!!!
What thickness MDF should I use? Should I make a thicker baffel and base? How thick? 18mm for the box, and something thicker for the base and baffel? The reason I am considering using a thicker (and heavier) base is so the speakers aren't top heavy..
Nathan says:gardens are nice
What thickness MDF should I use? Should I make a thicker baffel and base? How thick? 18mm for the box, and something thicker for the base and baffel? The reason I am considering using a thicker (and heavier) base is so the speakers aren't top heavy..
Nathan says:gardens are nice
MDF is good!
So my boxes are made of that.
For the frontbaffle, I use two layers!
that is 38mm
/halo - the boxer
I have 19 mm MDF.SkinnyBoy said:I REMEMBER MY QUESTION!!!
What thickness MDF should I use? Should I make a thicker baffel and base? How thick? 18mm for the box, and something thicker for the base and baffel? The reason I am considering using a thicker (and heavier) base is so the speakers aren't top heavy..
Nathan says:gardens are nice
So my boxes are made of that.
For the frontbaffle, I use two layers!
that is 38mm /halo - the boxer
Re: MDF is good!
What purpose to thicker baffles serve? and, how do you hold the 2 19mm thick pieces together? How do you hold the WHOLE BOX together... I am yet to work that out..
halojoy said:
I have 19 mm MDF.
So my boxes are made of that.
For the frontbaffle, I use two layers!
/halo - the boxer
What purpose to thicker baffles serve? and, how do you hold the 2 19mm thick pieces together? How do you hold the WHOLE BOX together... I am yet to work that out..
I have some questions..
1. Do I need bracing in a vented inclusure internal dimensions of 80cm X 30cm X 25cm?
2. Whats the minimum space between the driver (8inch woofer) and the side of the box?
3. Is having a 25cm internel width, with 18mm thick walls in the box, (therefor a total bafle of ~28.6cm) Is this too narrow to mount an 8inch woofer, with a diameter of 217mm??
4. Are adjustable ports a no no?
5. One the box it veneared, how do I cut out the whole for the woofer again? I have alredy cut it out (hypothetically) before I assembled teh boxesa and covered them, so, what now?
6. When I clamp the box, do I need to clamp the top and botom at the same time as clamping the sides? I don't think my school even has clamps over 80cm long..
7. what type of glue do I use to stick the box together? I think I am going to have to buy that too..
1. Do I need bracing in a vented inclusure internal dimensions of 80cm X 30cm X 25cm?
2. Whats the minimum space between the driver (8inch woofer) and the side of the box?
3. Is having a 25cm internel width, with 18mm thick walls in the box, (therefor a total bafle of ~28.6cm) Is this too narrow to mount an 8inch woofer, with a diameter of 217mm??
4. Are adjustable ports a no no?
5. One the box it veneared, how do I cut out the whole for the woofer again? I have alredy cut it out (hypothetically) before I assembled teh boxesa and covered them, so, what now?
6. When I clamp the box, do I need to clamp the top and botom at the same time as clamping the sides? I don't think my school even has clamps over 80cm long..
7. what type of glue do I use to stick the box together? I think I am going to have to buy that too..
8. when using the impedence jig, do I just make it as I see it, isn't the speaker being directly driven from the soundcards output? which is very low... And I am not too sure if soundcards are happy with a 14ohm load on them.... headphones are 32ohms... or am I supposed to use the amplified "speaker out" which my soundcard doesn't have.. only a line out.
only a line out. 
1. It is your choice, there is no absolute rule.
2. This is related to diffraction box effects. There is simulation model for that. Generally, the side of the box should be as close as possible to the driver.
3. Experiment!
4. I don't know.
5. You need a jig saw
6. Do top bottom before side.
7. Carpenter glue (I use the 2500lbs one).
8. It is up to you but in my case, I use it directly from my sound card.
2. This is related to diffraction box effects. There is simulation model for that. Generally, the side of the box should be as close as possible to the driver.
3. Experiment!
4. I don't know.
5. You need a jig saw
6. Do top bottom before side.
7. Carpenter glue (I use the 2500lbs one).
8. It is up to you but in my case, I use it directly from my sound card.
SkinnyBoy said:Ahh, okay, thanx halo..
This is basically how I want to make the speakers, 1 pixel=1mm or there abouts, the tweeter is actually too big I think..
Should I put bracing between the woofer and tweeter? It seems like a good idea to me..
Bracing between the woofer and the tweeter are good if you have space. The space between the woofer and the tweeter is not random by the way. I suggest you the as closest as possible and do some listening test. You can make two or three baffle before finding the right one. This is why you should never glue the baffle until the end. You can use scew or clamp temporary.
François said:
See, I have a problem with that, cos I am making these at school, I have no amp, and don't wanna waste my money on baffles..
lol I knew that it was best to have the woofer and tweeter as close together as possible.. You say the space between the woofer and tweeter isn't random, but you say to make it as small as possible.. does this mean there is an optimum distance that connot be calculated, but rather has to be found by trial an error?
I get my speakers tomorow.. hehehehehehe... first, I break them in... how.. Man, this is a learning experience.. What frequency, how loud? Also, do I need to break in the tweeters?? I think there should be a speaker box making guide for dummies.. with ALL these answers in it... I might do that some time.. will enable to to organise all this info as well..
hehehehehehe... first, I break them in... how.. Man, this is a learning experience.. What frequency, how loud? Also, do I need to break in the tweeters?? I think there should be a speaker box making guide for dummies.. with ALL these answers in it... I might do that some time.. will enable to to organise all this info as well.. The ideal distance between the centres of the tweeter is usually considered to be related to the crossover frequency (which kind of makes sense when you think about it). I can't remember the recommended ratio, but half a wavelength at the crossover frequency rings a bell (although that does seem pretty small to me). I'm sure somebody slightly less sketchy than myself will be able to offer a slightly more useful and infinitely more informative opinion ......
Well, an update on the speakers..... 
I CAN"T START MAKING THEM UNTIL SECOND SEMESTER.... Thats like 5months... Also, I asked the teacher about it, adn he said that they normally don't allow students to make speaker boxes... Well, I am still going to make them, because these AREN"T that simple, they have bracing, and rebated speakers, and whatever those corners are called.. lol (What are they called? the ones where I make it so the sides interlock? I want to know what I am talking about when I go to the teaher next) Also, I asked about MDF thicker than 18mm, the teacher said they don't EVER get any thicker than that... Also, he reccomended I used 16mm for the WHOLE BOX!!! well, I am not doing that.. lol.... I figure I can always get my own MDF from somewhere... and bring it to school.. SOMEHOW!! lol
I CAN"T START MAKING THEM UNTIL SECOND SEMESTER.... Thats like 5months... Also, I asked the teacher about it, adn he said that they normally don't allow students to make speaker boxes... Well, I am still going to make them, because these AREN"T that simple, they have bracing, and rebated speakers, and whatever those corners are called.. lol (What are they called? the ones where I make it so the sides interlock? I want to know what I am talking about when I go to the teaher next) Also, I asked about MDF thicker than 18mm, the teacher said they don't EVER get any thicker than that... Also, he reccomended I used 16mm for the WHOLE BOX!!! well, I am not doing that.. lol.... I figure I can always get my own MDF from somewhere... and bring it to school.. SOMEHOW!! lol- Status
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