I have a soldapull (the chrome one, about 35-45 bucks) and it worked very well the first 30 times (lol) but now its loosing suction. I opened it up and removed all the solder that was stuck inside. Also the grease had some solder so some was removed.
Now that I use it, it seems it lose suction (sometimes not sucking any liquid solder). So is there any way these are properly maintainanced? Thanks.
Now that I use it, it seems it lose suction (sometimes not sucking any liquid solder). So is there any way these are properly maintainanced? Thanks.
lol. I tried vaseline. I think it might be the ring, because its loose.
I thought about solder wick. But I never expirimented with it. And the solder pump was sucking so good the first few times (I actually was amazed on how clean it left the board) but now its leaving solder and well.... thats no good.
I thought about solder wick. But I never expirimented with it. And the solder pump was sucking so good the first few times (I actually was amazed on how clean it left the board) but now its leaving solder and well.... thats no good.
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More of the same what everyone is telling you. But here is my two cents.
I usually test the pump on my arm first. If it sounds like it has a case of asthma, and doesnt pull your skin up. Just Clean it out very well, and lube it, it should work like a champ.
If you use Solder wick, Make sure its not been sitting on the shelf for years. The first time i tried with old wick, If its discolored it will not work as well as the new and shiny wick. Also I believe they have wick with flux added.
I just pull mine thru a paper towel with some flux on it and it seemed to help suck it up. The wick works really well, and usually cleans all the solder, and opens the hole in the pcb right up.
I usually test the pump on my arm first. If it sounds like it has a case of asthma, and doesnt pull your skin up. Just Clean it out very well, and lube it, it should work like a champ.
If you use Solder wick, Make sure its not been sitting on the shelf for years. The first time i tried with old wick, If its discolored it will not work as well as the new and shiny wick. Also I believe they have wick with flux added.
I just pull mine thru a paper towel with some flux on it and it seemed to help suck it up. The wick works really well, and usually cleans all the solder, and opens the hole in the pcb right up.
How about cutting a small notch in the sillycone tubing. I dont wanna try cutting my tip, even though it sounds like another good idea.
I just added some tubing, and a replacment tip on my shopping list
Sounds like a good idea. The proper size teflon tubing may be even better.
.
The silicone tubing is heatproof and compliant, so that it seals against the pcb and sucks up all solder in one operation.
I can desolder a 40pin chip in no time, and zero pcb damage.
Shorten the existing teflon tube 3mm and fit short length of silicone tubing such that the original length is maintained.
I have used this method for 20+ years.
Eric.
I can desolder a 40pin chip in no time, and zero pcb damage.
Shorten the existing teflon tube 3mm and fit short length of silicone tubing such that the original length is maintained.
I have used this method for 20+ years.
Eric.
I have a Ratshack desolering iron (35W I think) with a rubber bulb for suction and a tip with center hole...costs maybe $30. Works like a charm - only issue is that the tips eventually erode like most soldering tips and eventually need replacing (new tip $3). It's a little big for really tight spaces so I keep a roll of wick handy for those.
cleaning and lube YouTube - Edsyn - AS196 Silverstat Soldapullt Desoldering Tool
The rolls royce ? I wonder about effective static reduction with just metal clad on the outside?? Is there value here?
I prefer a unit with a little larger diameter piston and longer throw to compensate for reduced suction for "dry" operation. Going for the full lube treatment requires more down time for cleaning. IMO
The rolls royce ? I wonder about effective static reduction with just metal clad on the outside?? Is there value here?
I prefer a unit with a little larger diameter piston and longer throw to compensate for reduced suction for "dry" operation. Going for the full lube treatment requires more down time for cleaning. IMO
Thanks everyone. I will open it up, clean it up real good, lub it with vaseline and see if I can find some of that teflon tubing (doesnt oreilly's or autozone sell some? or should I check at a RC shop?). Am just thinking "doesnt the heat of the solder melt the tubing I will add? Also how much tubing should I add to the tip, an inch or two? And will it have to be replaced with every suck???
Thats the pump I have (35-50 bucks). And its not metal is platic with a chrome finish but its just plastic. And the first 20-30 times I used it it worked perfectly. I tried it on my arm and it sucked my skin, now its not doing so.
Thats the pump I have (35-50 bucks). And its not metal is platic with a chrome finish but its just plastic. And the first 20-30 times I used it it worked perfectly. I tried it on my arm and it sucked my skin, now its not doing so.
I have one of those Ratshack desoldering irons too, and its 45W... on a side not this is the third post in the forum where mentioned Ratshack
this is the desoldering pump I use and it works perfectly and its under 10$. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...17145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=B003E48EPW
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You can't make that as a blanket statement. I use both and the sucker is better
for plated through holes while I use wick to clean up surface mount pads. You need both.
G²
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