My New Lenco and Arm

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Pictures as promised

Any questions, please let me know.
Regards
Chris
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I get the washer use. Can you explain further or diagram this?

Hi,

A rectangle with a V shaped slot cut into it along its length.

If you sawtooth the V shaped slots sides you will have a series
of variable width gaps to pinch the threads towards each other.

rgds, sreten.

Another idea is to cut a slot down the centre of a bolt
and then use a nut to vary the length of the slot.
 
A couple of questions about the diy wta in general....

1) What are you making the cup from? Is it an aerosol can that has been cut down or something that you found at a store and adapted.

2) How do you set your vta on these arms? Do you adjust the hanging string or do you have a mechanism to raise/lower the entire assembly?
 
Hi Lexx21
In answer to your questions:
!) The cup is a cut down stainless steel toothbrush holder available from supermarkets
2) I consider it important to keep the arm and cup at a constant distance. Hence the whole assembly is mounted on a single M10 threaded rod which, as well as being very rigid, makes height adjustment very simple.

Regards
Chris
 
A couple of questions about the diy wta in general....

1) What are you making the cup from? Is it an aerosol can that has been cut down or something that you found at a store and adapted.

2) How do you set your vta on these arms? Do you adjust the hanging string or do you have a mechanism to raise/lower the entire assembly?

Take a look at Well Tempered's model history. The Well Tempered Turntable's entire arm assembly sits on a shelf that can be raised and lowered to adjust VTA. On most DIY WT clone arms the VTA is adjustable by changing the length of the fishing line.

Marigo's Well Damped Clamp proved to make a dramatic improvement on the WTT's sound, showing that the mass of the cup makes a big difference. I use 2" id stainless steel pipe caps for cups. Perfect for the golf ball.
 
I'm intrigued by the suggestion that the mass of the cup affects performance. Considering the viscosity of the silicone fluid, I can see no way that there would be any effect at all. As I mentioned, I keep the length of the fishing line constant and move the whole assembly up or down to ensure correct vta.

On the question of motor, I use a Premotec dc motor with a Maplins pulley (UK retailer) and pure silk thread. The control box is a Transcriptors (the people who did the precursor to the Michell Gyro etc)

Regards
Chris
 
Hi Sretan
I agree-but it's not the design that's at fault but the execution-
he must have something fundamentally wrong in putting it together.
Chris

Hi,

No the design is at fault, as it ignores proper bias settings.

Bias is set by the effective width of the threads and in
this case the effective minimum is far too large, you
could cross the threads but likely bias will be too
low, but still way better than miles too high.

rgds, sreten.
 
Take a look at this Stereophile review

I have both the LP Lab carbon fiber arm mod and the Marigo Well Damped Clamp. I joke that I think I got the last one of each. I already had the upgraded black platter - my WTT is a fantastic table. Now I'm working on my WT Record Player to make it somewhat comparable. I recently added the upgraded black platter to it and my soon to arrive DC motor should help a lot. Thanks for the info on your motor and your use of silk thread.

The Well-Tempered Arm More RH | Stereophile.com
 
Hi Sreten
Regarding your comment about bias. This method of setting bias is bound to be hit and miss for a whole range of reasons. Are you commenting from practical experience of using the arm? As I use a longer arm tube anyway, underbias isn't an issue anyway.
regards
Chris
 
Hi Sreten

I would find it helpful if you shared with us you understanding. It's interesting that your quote states 'there's nothing more practical than a really good theory.' As you are no doubt aware, setting bias, whether with a thread and weight, a spring or as in this case, twisting the line-is at best a hit and miss affair and therefore, only practical experimentation will give optimum results. On HFS 75, the bands relating to setting bias are passed with ease. Therefore, I can forget about stressing whether I'm over or under-biased. The thing just works!
Regards
Chris
 
Looking forward to your pic. Thanks.

I understand your reference to 360º technically being a full twist. Well Tempered often refers to a'partial twist' as the fishing line going over the suspension arm with the line not touching itself. I refer to a 'full twist' when the fishing line touches itself.

For a good while there were numerous pics of the WT Simplex and other WT models numerous showing both my partial and 'touching' (full) twist descriptions. A search this week shows far fewer pics of the 'partial' twist variety. I wonder if Well Tempered or it's distributors are reaching out and asking people to remove partial twist photos... ? I wrote Mike Pranka at Dynavecor and asked which was correct - partial and full twist - but never heard back. I can understand since my arm is self-made.

I played the table with the 'touching' twist yesterday and it tracked fine, though the cantilever is certainly damaged. I may have been that my larger diameter suspension arm, even with a 'touching' twist, could have some negative effect, though I don't know how or why that would be.

An earlier version of my arm, with touching twist and set up in overhang with offset angle, had tracked very poorly, my quality vinyl sounding dirty and worn with at least one skip backward per side. That's when I decided to set the arm up using underhang. Once I get another cartridge in for this table I'll keep things in overhang with offset angle and see if the tracking continues to do well. I suspect it might.
 
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