hi all,
it seems perhaps there might be a need for an inexpensive but good arm
across the world...
Prior to sending any more out, it would be good to get a few built in North America, and get user feedback from those that have the parts. I can send more kits to Dave for himself or Chris on the island if he chooses to send what he has out and about.
wjlamp: If Dave has none of the parts left, I can send you some, or perhaps a "complete" arm.
Understand this though: My arm (the one currently on my turntable) weighs 24.95 grams with cartridge installed. The compliance of my Grado is 20. The calculated resonant frequency is 7.6 Hz, perhaps a little too low.
The mass of the Denon DL103 is 8.5 grams with a C:=5. so the numerator portion of the calculation results in an increase in mass of 3 grams, and a redux of the compliance to approximately 1/4, resulting in a resonant frequency of 14.2 Hz. Many folks don't feel comfortable with that. To get the resonant frequency into the 12Hz range, you may have to add a little more mass, the arm cartridge/fastener/wire system should be in the 21-25 gram range. This can be easily accomplished stuffing some wool or similar into the arm tube... mass will increase, and it will add some damping (thanx Dave ) to the arm. Or a nice finger lift could be added...
Dave, can you ask Bernie to email me? Almost all my information was vapourized in the recent HD crash, so I don't have his email.
it seems perhaps there might be a need for an inexpensive but good arm
across the world...Prior to sending any more out, it would be good to get a few built in North America, and get user feedback from those that have the parts. I can send more kits to Dave for himself or Chris on the island if he chooses to send what he has out and about.
wjlamp: If Dave has none of the parts left, I can send you some, or perhaps a "complete" arm.
Understand this though: My arm (the one currently on my turntable) weighs 24.95 grams with cartridge installed. The compliance of my Grado is 20. The calculated resonant frequency is 7.6 Hz, perhaps a little too low.
The mass of the Denon DL103 is 8.5 grams with a C:=5. so the numerator portion of the calculation results in an increase in mass of 3 grams, and a redux of the compliance to approximately 1/4, resulting in a resonant frequency of 14.2 Hz. Many folks don't feel comfortable with that. To get the resonant frequency into the 12Hz range, you may have to add a little more mass, the arm cartridge/fastener/wire system should be in the 21-25 gram range. This can be easily accomplished stuffing some wool or similar into the arm tube... mass will increase, and it will add some damping (thanx Dave
) to the arm. Or a nice finger lift could be added...Dave, can you ask Bernie to email me? Almost all my information was vapourized in the recent HD crash, so I don't have his email.
it seems perhaps there might be a need for an inexpensive but good arm
wjlamp: If Dave has none of the parts left, I can send you some, or perhaps a "complete" arm.
Understand this though: My arm (the one currently on my turntable) weighs 24.95 grams with cartridge installed. The compliance of my Grado is 20. The calculated resonant frequency is 7.6 Hz, perhaps a little too low.
The mass of the Denon DL103 is 8.5 grams with a C:=5. so the numerator portion of the calculation results in an increase in mass of 3 grams, and a redux of the compliance to approximately 1/4, resulting in a resonant frequency of 14.2 Hz. Many folks don't feel comfortable with that. To get the resonant frequency into the 12Hz range, you may have to add a little more mass, the arm cartridge/fastener/wire system should be in the 21-25 gram range. This can be easily accomplished stuffing some wool or similar into the arm tube... mass will increase, and it will add some damping (thanx Dave
Thanks,
any info is priceless,and allthough,I know tons about analogue ,you made the tonearm,so your knowledge about it,is a step ahead,all the time.
I have the trusty Ortofon test disc,that has everything,for testing the arm and cartridge compo.All reversible mods will be tried on the arm,and reports will follow.
Dave will send me the arm.Everything is ok.
B.L
to any building this thing. And to wjlamp
wjlamp: it sounds pretty promising as I have no measurement capabilities, just a set of analog input devices (ears) that have proven to be pretty good.
dave:: just email me if you end up sending the rest of the "kits" away, I'll send some more for you and your crew (daniel and chris).
all:there are a few things you need to have available to complete the arm:
To actually make the male bearing, just cut off the portion of the pen refill that you need, and wash it out with a solvent to clean out the ink. You can choose to put some oil into it or on the pen nib. If you don't like the idea of using a pen refill, pry the nib off carefully. Then mount the nib on a small dowel sharpened with a pencil sharpener. Sand the tip so a small flat is produced, drill a small hole and glue the nib into the hole. I install the female bearing into a small piece of dowel, and glue into the tube at the appropriate location.
If damping is required, a couple of things come to mind.
I apologize that I don't have any documentation. My hard drive crashed and I lost everything. I'll take a few close-ups of the arm to show the details if need be. This arm is crazy stupid simple (hey, perhaps another name ? KSSTA, "Krazy Stew's Simple ToneArm"
)
Once I get enough feedback from builders, I'll work on incorporating a better mounting scheme that would include a tonearm lift and a rest, as well as house the male portion of the bearing.
If I produce this thing commercially all who helped as "beta testers" and those that have had input into changes will be credited. Recently I received a really nice email from Frank Schröder. Some time ago I asked if I could use his headshell design, I'd pay licensing or something to him if I implemented his design in a commercial product. He suggested that I could make a donation to Int'l Physicians for the Prevention of Nuclear War if I use his design. In the end I may may or may not use his design as I really like the idea of a wooden headshell. Slight evolution to the arm may occur in the details of the arm, but not significantly.
In the spirit of Frank Schröder's suggestion, if any want to do something to offset (the very minimal) costs of the materials, I'd suggest a small donation to a local charity such as a food bank or similar (a can of beans or some other protein item can go a long way, as well as a pound of coffee). Many folks out there are really struggling close to home. Or as you might prefer, donate to one of the global relief agencies such as the Red Cross, Red Crescent, UNICEF, etc.
dave, could you send me whatever you got for a Power Point or anything I sent you via email and design/instrux? I need to ask Bernie for the same.
wjlamp: it sounds pretty promising as I have no measurement capabilities, just a set of analog input devices (ears) that have proven to be pretty good.
dave:: just email me if you end up sending the rest of the "kits" away, I'll send some more for you and your crew (daniel and chris).
all:there are a few things you need to have available to complete the arm:
- some sort of fine wire suitable for use as tonearm wire. I 've tried a bunch of free stuff and also some Kynar (wire wrap wire-I had some, but dave suggested its use).
- cartridge clips of some sort (DIY here too, D-sub mini or dedicated cartridge tags)
- a counter-weight, approximately 75grams to 90 grams in weight. A salvaged one or something in the correct weight range
- a finger lift, if required (could help increase the mass of the tonearm to a suitable level with wjlamp's Denon)
- some Blu-Tac or similar (it helps to be able to temporarily mount the arm to almost any turntable) without hurting the turntable
- some sort of rigid measuring device like an old fashioned ruler! (depending on the arm you get/got as the length varies. There were a few 10.5" arms, but most were 12", mine is 12.95" or about 330 mm in length). All that were sent out were measured and marked. Something capable of measuring 350mm or so would be good. Please don't use a tape measure.
- something to use as an arm rest
- if you need a cuing device, a simple one can easily be made. (I've got one in mind)
- some sort of light-weight, non-"slick" tape, and a small piece of solid copper or stainless wire (or string or whatever) to dangle the counter-weight off of
To actually make the male bearing, just cut off the portion of the pen refill that you need, and wash it out with a solvent to clean out the ink. You can choose to put some oil into it or on the pen nib. If you don't like the idea of using a pen refill, pry the nib off carefully. Then mount the nib on a small dowel sharpened with a pencil sharpener. Sand the tip so a small flat is produced, drill a small hole and glue the nib into the hole. I install the female bearing into a small piece of dowel, and glue into the tube at the appropriate location.
If damping is required, a couple of things come to mind.
- Very thin heat shrink could be used
- a finger or two cut from some latex surgical type gloves
- O rings mounted on the arm could work
- latex paints sold as theatrical paint
- rubber cement
- liquid electricians tape.
- wool or cotton fibres inserted into the tube
- lengths of balsa or bass wood, low density foam, etc. Whatever you feel comfortable with and may have on hand
I apologize that I don't have any documentation. My hard drive crashed and I lost everything. I'll take a few close-ups of the arm to show the details if need be. This arm is crazy stupid simple (hey, perhaps another name ? KSSTA, "Krazy Stew's Simple ToneArm"
) Once I get enough feedback from builders, I'll work on incorporating a better mounting scheme that would include a tonearm lift and a rest, as well as house the male portion of the bearing.
If I produce this thing commercially all who helped as "beta testers" and those that have had input into changes will be credited. Recently I received a really nice email from Frank Schröder. Some time ago I asked if I could use his headshell design, I'd pay licensing or something to him if I implemented his design in a commercial product. He suggested that I could make a donation to Int'l Physicians for the Prevention of Nuclear War if I use his design. In the end I may may or may not use his design as I really like the idea of a wooden headshell. Slight evolution to the arm may occur in the details of the arm, but not significantly.
In the spirit of Frank Schröder's suggestion, if any want to do something to offset (the very minimal) costs of the materials, I'd suggest a small donation to a local charity such as a food bank or similar (a can of beans or some other protein item can go a long way, as well as a pound of coffee). Many folks out there are really struggling close to home. Or as you might prefer, donate to one of the global relief agencies such as the Red Cross, Red Crescent, UNICEF, etc.
dave, could you send me whatever you got for a Power Point or anything I sent you via email and design/instrux? I need to ask Bernie for the same.
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The thing that makes these particular kits special is Bernie's headshell. IMHO he should be charging for them if he does more.
dave
Hey Stew.
It looks like Kencraft was an offshoot of Trio in Japan. They had a line of "kits" available in the 70's, but must have had "factory" audio gear as well. Probably for the domestic market only, some may have sneaked over, which would explain the GX870.
jeff
As I stated. Since I designed them
It looks like Kencraft was an offshoot of Trio in Japan. They had a line of "kits" available in the 70's, but must have had "factory" audio gear as well. Probably for the domestic market only, some may have sneaked over, which would explain the GX870.
jeff
Kencraft, etc...
Jeff: yup, I knew that. Just not a lot of info on the TT I have.
tmblack: The female portion of the bearing is glued to a piece of dowel which is then glued to the shaft at the appropriate spot. (The tube is drilled to allow for the male portion to pass through it and into the female "cup"). Thanks for the compliment on a single quid being spent on the original. With all new pieces, the total grows quickly, but still well under any arm available out there.
The "metal cylinder" is just the rest of the pen refill. As I stated everything on my HD disappeared when it crashed, so all of my "audiofiles" are no where to be found. I will take a few new photos and will post when I can.
Jeff: yup, I knew that. Just not a lot of info on the TT I have.
tmblack: The female portion of the bearing is glued to a piece of dowel which is then glued to the shaft at the appropriate spot. (The tube is drilled to allow for the male portion to pass through it and into the female "cup"). Thanks for the compliment on a single quid being spent on the original. With all new pieces, the total grows quickly, but still well under any arm available out there.
The "metal cylinder" is just the rest of the pen refill. As I stated everything on my HD disappeared when it crashed, so all of my "audiofiles" are no where to be found. I will take a few new photos and will post when I can.
brass cup...and headshell
the headshell was made by someone else, using my dimensions. Similar to a Yamamoto headshell, dimensions based on an old headshell from a Kencraft DD turntable. The original "219" used a brass acorn nut. The arm tube was hogged out using a Dremel tool, but several shattered before a good method was devised. Currently I waste no arm shafts.
Headshell was just cut from some wood scraps, and bored to a suitable sized hole (based on the tubing one has available to them). Spacing for the slots is 1/2" (standard mount), of approximately 3mm wide each. 2mm bolts are used to attach the cartridge, allowing for some "twisting" in the headshell to allow for cartridge alignment.
the headshell was made by someone else, using my dimensions. Similar to a Yamamoto headshell, dimensions based on an old headshell from a Kencraft DD turntable. The original "219" used a brass acorn nut. The arm tube was hogged out using a Dremel tool, but several shattered before a good method was devised. Currently I waste no arm shafts.
Headshell was just cut from some wood scraps, and bored to a suitable sized hole (based on the tubing one has available to them). Spacing for the slots is 1/2" (standard mount), of approximately 3mm wide each. 2mm bolts are used to attach the cartridge, allowing for some "twisting" in the headshell to allow for cartridge alignment.
Hi,
looking closely the posted pictures of your tonearm,I see no means of balancing the off axis mounting of the cartridge.What do you use for correcting the lateral axis of the arm in relation to the pivot.An outrigger weight maybe?
B.L.
Hi Dave,
For some reason never got notification of your post - if you still have I will paypal you - surface mail is fine..
wjlamp...
, I assume you are referring to azimuth of the cartridge.
the reason for some sort of some sort of "non-slip" tape to tie the counterweight to, but allows for some movement ...
I tried using a digital camera to get some close-ups. Guess I should read a book or something about getting good ones (every time I try using a "macro" setting, the pix are always out of focus...)
, I assume you are referring to azimuth of the cartridge.
the reason for some sort of some sort of "non-slip" tape to tie the counterweight to, but allows for some movement ...
I tried using a digital camera to get some close-ups. Guess I should read a book or something about getting good ones (every time I try using a "macro" setting, the pix are always out of focus...)
Hi
Do you mean that by positioning the counterweight,at the appropriate angle,relative to the axis of the beam,eliminates the problem?
B.L
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Can't wait to get the arm, just discovered I still have the cute little 88gm brass counter weight I made for another ill-fated tone arm project so I will use it with this arm, and it should be good because I am going to use it with a Denon DL-103 in a UWE body at some point.
I have a very nice machine shop here in my basement which is pretty well equipped for making things like tone arms, so this will just whet my appetite, and give me a good sense of how much of a step from my fleet of SME 3009 a longer arm would be.. This one sounds like a good point of comparison based on Nanook's comments.
I have a very nice machine shop here in my basement which is pretty well equipped for making things like tone arms, so this will just whet my appetite, and give me a good sense of how much of a step from my fleet of SME 3009 a longer arm would be.. This one sounds like a good point of comparison based on Nanook's comments.
Beautiful piece of work! I love the simplicity of the design.
I've been away from this forum for ages, but recently posted my own DIY tonearm (first effort) recently. I'm getting the bug for further experimentation.
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