guys, more comments.
sled109 and Jay1234:
I modelled my headshell from one on an old Kenwood turntable. Almost any thing will do. Just remember that almost all headshells are made so that the mounting screws approximately 1/4" behind the stylus tip.
sled, I tried that, but if made correctly, there should be no need to use a dowel as you suggested (I tried it with varying degrees of success or lack there of).
sled109 and Jay1234:
I modelled my headshell from one on an old Kenwood turntable. Almost any thing will do. Just remember that almost all headshells are made so that the mounting screws approximately 1/4" behind the stylus tip.
sled, I tried that, but if made correctly, there should be no need to use a dowel as you suggested (I tried it with varying degrees of success or lack there of).
Attachments
The bearing is very good indeed.
I've gone for what might be termed as the fancy one lol
It's actually the end cap from a fuse! As it happens to be made of brass & it's about the right size & shape. All I had to do was smash the glass & cut the cap with a stanly knife, so about two thirds of it was left, so it resembled a semi circle. Insert into arm tube with a drop of 5 min Epoxy. And a tiny center pop, Job done!
I've gone for what might be termed as the fancy one lol
It's actually the end cap from a fuse! As it happens to be made of brass & it's about the right size & shape. All I had to do was smash the glass & cut the cap with a stanly knife, so about two thirds of it was left, so it resembled a semi circle. Insert into arm tube with a drop of 5 min Epoxy. And a tiny center pop, Job done!
a point brought up...
I did state earlier that I had used smaller cartridge mounting screws so that I could "twist" the cartridge body with respect to the headshell to get the correct O/S angle, and the cartridge mounting holes are also slotted. What's important is the ability to adjust the cartridge so that you may use the alignment gauge of your choice. The intent of this thread was to provide the basics to make a similar tonearm without providing a blow by blow constructional explanation.
I did state earlier that I had used smaller cartridge mounting screws so that I could "twist" the cartridge body with respect to the headshell to get the correct O/S angle, and the cartridge mounting holes are also slotted. What's important is the ability to adjust the cartridge so that you may use the alignment gauge of your choice. The intent of this thread was to provide the basics to make a similar tonearm without providing a blow by blow constructional explanation.
I understand that in principal. The one or two arms I've seen that have this centre lift do look a bit strange. Not sure how efective that kind of lift mught be in use as a practical lift.
I haven't yet tried the cartridge in the arm yet but it does balence wonderfully at the moment. When I make the counterwait it will also be offset if needed. So I don't see any problems
I haven't yet tried the cartridge in the arm yet but it does balence wonderfully at the moment. When I make the counterwait it will also be offset if needed. So I don't see any problems
arm tube ground wire...
I just strip a small portion of the end of the ground wire and screw/solder (or whatever connection) to the arm tube.
Arguments about twisting and braiding are all over the place, but in my experience a loose twist seems fine. Moray has far more experience with all things wire than I do.
Moray didn't really see what I usually do or how fast the arm self corrects itself. If a finger lift is in place while adjusting the arm, it will self correct as soon as it hits the record surface. A simple lift in-line with the stylus too to pivot measurement will work. Anything else will require you to readjust the azimuth.
I just strip a small portion of the end of the ground wire and screw/solder (or whatever connection) to the arm tube.
Arguments about twisting and braiding are all over the place, but in my experience a loose twist seems fine. Moray has far more experience with all things wire than I do.
Moray didn't really see what I usually do or how fast the arm self corrects itself. If a finger lift is in place while adjusting the arm, it will self correct as soon as it hits the record surface. A simple lift in-line with the stylus too to pivot measurement will work. Anything else will require you to readjust the azimuth.
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I now have the Male bearing so more or less ready to begin building the base. & the counterweight...
Still gathering bits n bobs for the WTA.
A very general question: theirs a lot of info on a site called AudioKarma,
I have tried to join this site but it asks you to answer what seems a very simple question i.e. what does "LP" stand for ? & iv'e put in just about every combination I can think of To no avail any clues or am i being a bit dense
Still gathering bits n bobs for the WTA.
A very general question: theirs a lot of info on a site called AudioKarma,
I have tried to join this site but it asks you to answer what seems a very simple question i.e. what does "LP" stand for ? & iv'e put in just about every combination I can think of To no avail any clues or am i being a bit dense
RB 300 / AT OC9*
LP 12*
Vs
Nanook 219 knockoff.
Ok hear we go, AT OC5 about 20 yrs old no idea what it sounded like when I stopped using it.
Litz silk covered wire kit with pins etc, £ 7.00
Bit of hand crafted cherry wood Head Shell, was nicer to make than I though it wood be.
Spring steel Finger lift, from old floppy drive.
5BA bolts, fit better than the normal metric ones, but nuts need making smaller in order to fit cartridge.
Arm tube is Eastman XX75 Aluminium arrow.
Female part of bearing is a Brass End cap from a glass fuse cut in half & epoxied into tube with Center pop to form F/ bearing, So very simple.
Male Bearing is a New metal ball point Pen refill had to bye 2 at £ 5.00.
base of pivot a bit of old compressor.
2x RCA Phono sockets £ 5.00 (still to purchase)
*£17.00 in total so considerably more than Nanook's !
*The test;*
My MF pre Amp is able to switch between MM & MC & with both Arms on a record at the same time, makes for a very good way to evaluate each arm/ cart.
With the proviso that the " expensive knockoff " will only be roughly mounted in approximately the right area, At the moment it would cause way to much hassle to move the stereo.
But if all goes well then it will be sorted properly.
should have it up & running this week*
watch this space........
LP 12*
Vs
Nanook 219 knockoff.
Ok hear we go, AT OC5 about 20 yrs old no idea what it sounded like when I stopped using it.
Litz silk covered wire kit with pins etc, £ 7.00
Bit of hand crafted cherry wood Head Shell, was nicer to make than I though it wood be.
Spring steel Finger lift, from old floppy drive.
5BA bolts, fit better than the normal metric ones, but nuts need making smaller in order to fit cartridge.
Arm tube is Eastman XX75 Aluminium arrow.
Female part of bearing is a Brass End cap from a glass fuse cut in half & epoxied into tube with Center pop to form F/ bearing, So very simple.
Male Bearing is a New metal ball point Pen refill had to bye 2 at £ 5.00.
base of pivot a bit of old compressor.
2x RCA Phono sockets £ 5.00 (still to purchase)
*£17.00 in total so considerably more than Nanook's !
*The test;*
My MF pre Amp is able to switch between MM & MC & with both Arms on a record at the same time, makes for a very good way to evaluate each arm/ cart.
With the proviso that the " expensive knockoff " will only be roughly mounted in approximately the right area, At the moment it would cause way to much hassle to move the stereo.
But if all goes well then it will be sorted properly.
should have it up & running this week*
watch this space........
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