thanks inductor for the pointer .....
i will going with a 9L box with a port of 4.5cm dia and 7.5cm length dia tuned to 70Hz.... this provides a Vent Mach of 0.1 when played at 50W.
Hope this is ok ..... and if there is peaking or port noise cant i reduce that by damping the inside of the box with egg crate foam or glass wool(hard to find)...find attached cal for the acoustic power cal and port length
on the side note ....speaker box design is really a difficult stuff ....thanks for the help....
regards...
i will going with a 9L box with a port of 4.5cm dia and 7.5cm length dia tuned to 70Hz.... this provides a Vent Mach of 0.1 when played at 50W.
Hope this is ok ..... and if there is peaking or port noise cant i reduce that by damping the inside of the box with egg crate foam or glass wool(hard to find)...find attached cal for the acoustic power cal and port length
on the side note ....speaker box design is really a difficult stuff ....thanks for the help....
regards...
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yes. need to add the volume displaced by port and increase box volume by the same amount.
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In fact one needs to add volume displaced by driver, port and braces to arrive at the real construction volume.
If speaker a little smaller (already built) no problem, it helps with higher Q, like in prasi alignment. Simulate with the new net volume after taking out the space for port and driver +/- 0.4L (0.15 lts 1x port and 0.25 lts for driver. And +bracing vol. if any).
Speaker Driver Displacement Calculator
Speaker Driver Displacement Calculator
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good. provide a chamfer on the back side of driver hole of box (atleast for sub). see the designs of zaph audio to get an idea.
didnt notice it before, but rounding of front baffles at edges would be nice. again see zaph audio designs.
I kind of had this discussion with Lee Taylor of Taylor speakers. He does not encourage the use of spikes at all and prefers as complete and heavy a connection to the floor as possible. From his experience, cinder blocks made the best speaker stands. WAF is another matter though.
The big point is, I wouldn't encourage the use of spikes at all except for adjusting the speaker tilt. There is one big benefit of having them, or even just using the brass, coin-shaped spike protectors. If your surface isn't perfectly flat, speakers will tend to wobble. Adding those brass coins, or even like a real coin at 3 points under the speaker should eliminate that possibility.Another possibly good sounding option is to put weights on top of the speaker. I don't mean those little tweaks. I mean 10-40lbs of weight.
Of course, having that look ugly may eliminate any benefit of great bass. At least try the weights and tell us what you think.
Best,
Erik
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Your inductors should be mounted at right angles to each other to minimize cross coupling between them.
Mounted parallel to each other, as you have them, results in a basic transformer between the two coils.
If you have the ability to move one of them on each crossover to be vertical rather than horizontal, it sure would not hurt. (resulting in one vertical, and the other horizontal)
what J.L. says is correct. look at the attached pic. Inductors have to be at right angles to each other. This was my first x-over attempt.
. I had never touched a soldering iron in life before that.Attachments
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