Sorry, yes it is the raw response. Loving having a measurement mike at last. ARTA is a very cool piece of software.
I am learning how much "extra" bottom end I need though for things to sound "right" to me. A flat in room response sounds too thin for my liking, I need the bottom end to warm things up a bit.
Can I apply that transfer function in ARTA(still learning)?
Thanks for your time.
Adam
I am learning how much "extra" bottom end I need though for things to sound "right" to me. A flat in room response sounds too thin for my liking, I need the bottom end to warm things up a bit.
Can I apply that transfer function in ARTA(still learning)?
Thanks for your time.
Adam
You may be able to if you have the full version. Not sure otherwise. What I do is take the measurements in ARTA and export the FRD into Speaker Workshop (SW). Then I can play and save to my hearts content. 
My first attempt at a FR125S desgin was ported because I found the sealed enclosure too peaky and unforgiving in the simple test boxes. And of course I was drawn to the deeper bass afforded by the ported cabinet. Since then I've done a 180 having listened to them in different rooms, and the deep ported bass in the smaller rooms where they'll be used just wasn't impressive anymore. So the Bravura's were done sealed and cut off a fair bit higher with the intention of placing them against a wall in a small room such as you might in a typical bedroom or study etc. The result (with the filters) is much better midrange clarity and they bass mates well with the room now.
The good thing is you're tailoring to what you want rather than just trying to extract max bass out of these.
My first attempt at a FR125S desgin was ported because I found the sealed enclosure too peaky and unforgiving in the simple test boxes. And of course I was drawn to the deeper bass afforded by the ported cabinet. Since then I've done a 180 having listened to them in different rooms, and the deep ported bass in the smaller rooms where they'll be used just wasn't impressive anymore. So the Bravura's were done sealed and cut off a fair bit higher with the intention of placing them against a wall in a small room such as you might in a typical bedroom or study etc. The result (with the filters) is much better midrange clarity and they bass mates well with the room now.
The good thing is you're tailoring to what you want rather than just trying to extract max bass out of these.
When I built these I was lazy and just used carpet to line the boxes. As others have suggested on here it is next to useless as a deadener. Today I changed the carpet for carpet underlay, the felt stuff they use under carpet in cars, and behind plastics to reduce noise. It made a big difference, I'm glad I bothered. I also stuck some putty on the magnet covers to stop them ringing, but I don't know how much difference this made, if any.
I'll be getting a DCX2496 soon to eq and cross them over, should be a fun toy.
I'll be getting a DCX2496 soon to eq and cross them over, should be a fun toy.
ringing cabinets...
Foxx, I wish I could build anything that looked that good. They are very nice.
If ringing of the cabinet is still a problem, I think I can suggest a cheap, and easy to implement solution.
Measure the internal height and depth of your enclosure. Multiply both dimensions by: (sqrt(5)-1)/2
Mark the location on the sides at a convenient location. Drill a 1/4" -1/2" hole to fit some "allthread" or "redi-rod" or whatever they call it where you are. buy some funiture style "endcaps" or cabinet hardware for both ends. Cut the redi-rod perhaps 1/2" too short. Thread one of the connector onto the redi-rod. push it through the enclosure and start the other connector through the wall. now you have a tuneable coupling between the sidewalls. Tighten untill the character changes, and the boxes begins to reduce it's resonance.
some "knock down hardware
Foxx, I wish I could build anything that looked that good. They are very nice.
If ringing of the cabinet is still a problem, I think I can suggest a cheap, and easy to implement solution.
Measure the internal height and depth of your enclosure. Multiply both dimensions by: (sqrt(5)-1)/2
Mark the location on the sides at a convenient location. Drill a 1/4" -1/2" hole to fit some "allthread" or "redi-rod" or whatever they call it where you are. buy some funiture style "endcaps" or cabinet hardware for both ends. Cut the redi-rod perhaps 1/2" too short. Thread one of the connector onto the redi-rod. push it through the enclosure and start the other connector through the wall. now you have a tuneable coupling between the sidewalls. Tighten untill the character changes, and the boxes begins to reduce it's resonance.
some "knock down hardware
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