wigginjs said:
Hi Wigginjs, it's nothing special just a regular PC's motherboard digital out (75ohm RCA). We were using a PC with Lynx 2 (aes/ebu out) but that's kinda broken... Sorry, no pics of the PC, I'm away at school right now.
MaVo said:Great System, one cant possibly wish for more
Thanks MaVo, we're happy with the drivers, need to upgrade to better PC source and power amps next.
WALTER BURKHARD said:
Hi Walter, Goto drivers are nice but too expensive! My 505TT is the cheapest low-mid model... I don't like Goto's hypex horns, the throat end is too long for my taste (got I tiny bit sewer pipe sound) I plan on building a 140~150hz tractrix.
I would try some OTL tube amps for that system. Atma-Sphere and Joule Electra are supposed to be some of the best along with David Berning's ZOTL. For a more reasonable cost Transcendent Sound makes a SE OTL amp that is supposed to be superb for around 1/10th the cost of the others.
I would love to play some Slayer on that system just because it would be obscene. Although truly I would love to hear some good violin/cello music.
I would love to play some Slayer on that system just because it would be obscene. Although truly I would love to hear some good violin/cello music.
Wow!!
Hi Keith,
I'm really impressed by your system and its corresponding listening room. And what impressed me much is such a family dedication: father and son working toghether to get a dream true!
Maybe I am loving horn sound as much as you but having just an ordinary living room and little kid around I'm in a relatively standby and just dreaming of systems like you did.
Playing about 5 years with horns (see my effort here: http://forum.audiofil.ro/index.php?topic=524.msg19714#msg19714 ) I developed a personal view of the relative importance of parts in such a multiway horn system.
Personaly, I'm not affraid of the coloration induced by any amplifier, SS or valve, horns have a lot of lovely coloration that cannot be spoiled by any decent amplifier but only by a really bad or defective one. In 2x5 way system like yours, with expensive high sensivity drivers (GoTo
), firstly I would be affraid of induced brum and accidental overpower. So, to solve your multiamp problem just keep an C-Audio amp for sub-bass duty and use a multiamp like this http://www.monacor.de/typo3/index.php?id=62&L=1&act=8&act_sub=21&artid=5596&spr=EN&typ=u for the rest of the channels. You'll get balanced inputs, some HP and LP filters, all around protection and great packaging.
Good luck in your efforts and please keep us informed how is going on. All the best!
Dorin
Hi Keith,
I'm really impressed by your system and its corresponding listening room. And what impressed me much is such a family dedication: father and son working toghether to get a dream true!
Maybe I am loving horn sound as much as you but having just an ordinary living room and little kid around I'm in a relatively standby and just dreaming of systems like you did.
Playing about 5 years with horns (see my effort here: http://forum.audiofil.ro/index.php?topic=524.msg19714#msg19714 ) I developed a personal view of the relative importance of parts in such a multiway horn system.
Personaly, I'm not affraid of the coloration induced by any amplifier, SS or valve, horns have a lot of lovely coloration that cannot be spoiled by any decent amplifier but only by a really bad or defective one. In 2x5 way system like yours, with expensive high sensivity drivers (GoTo
), firstly I would be affraid of induced brum and accidental overpower. So, to solve your multiamp problem just keep an C-Audio amp for sub-bass duty and use a multiamp like this http://www.monacor.de/typo3/index.php?id=62&L=1&act=8&act_sub=21&artid=5596&spr=EN&typ=u for the rest of the channels. You'll get balanced inputs, some HP and LP filters, all around protection and great packaging.Good luck in your efforts and please keep us informed how is going on. All the best!
Dorin
Thanks Gainphile
WALTER BURKHARD asked me about constrution drawings from the midbass horn, I'll be answering here...
I used Hornresp to design my 1/2 space 53hz hypex (m=0.6) with 5" throat, the mouth is about 40" x 64" (102cm x 164cm), and length is 8' 8" (264cm). I can't say that I was super accurate when I made this horn but I did my best with the tools available. Construction drawing would be the exported file from hornresp and the paper template I made (see picture).
What is the advantage of a 1/2 space horn over 1/4 space? I mean, theoretically - of course. But we all live and listen to music in boxes called living rooms, not in open space. No?
Looks like a fantastic build, similar in concept (but much bigger and probably better than mine).
I'm currently starting an Ultraflex style four way with a passively split midrange, actively crossovered system.
These are with vintage aluminum RCF 16 inch tweeter horns, and Sansui S-107 midrange horns. Celestion/Trace Elliot 15" will handle midbass.
Deep bass with a tapped horn and push pull loaded 18" Podium Pro PP183.
Past experience with open baffle/ constant directivity actively crossed homemades have given very good subjective results with not very expensive 6CA7 single ended for treble, 300B single ended for midrange and upper midrange.
In past efforts, to lower my active crossover point, I have passively first order split a Neo 10 planar (300B) with Dynavox, Markaudio, Scanspeak, and older Peerless drivers (Nait 5). At 200- 300 hertz, tube or ss amplifiers weren't noticably different in sound quality.
I did find integrating my sub U Frames wasn't possible without feeding its plate amp line inputs through a tube buffer, however.
Hope this was helpful, your thread sure helped me with how to make a tapped horn look good.
I'm currently starting an Ultraflex style four way with a passively split midrange, actively crossovered system.
These are with vintage aluminum RCF 16 inch tweeter horns, and Sansui S-107 midrange horns. Celestion/Trace Elliot 15" will handle midbass.
Deep bass with a tapped horn and push pull loaded 18" Podium Pro PP183.
Past experience with open baffle/ constant directivity actively crossed homemades have given very good subjective results with not very expensive 6CA7 single ended for treble, 300B single ended for midrange and upper midrange.
In past efforts, to lower my active crossover point, I have passively first order split a Neo 10 planar (300B) with Dynavox, Markaudio, Scanspeak, and older Peerless drivers (Nait 5). At 200- 300 hertz, tube or ss amplifiers weren't noticably different in sound quality.
I did find integrating my sub U Frames wasn't possible without feeding its plate amp line inputs through a tube buffer, however.
Hope this was helpful, your thread sure helped me with how to make a tapped horn look good.
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