rollin24's said:can u strap 4 amplifiers to one voice coil, even if they are identical...
In theory yes (but you won't gain squat from the 2 additional amps), in reality it's cheaper and easier to simply get a
big honking amp , the real limiting factor is feeding such a beast (or any other high power amp setup) with sufficient current.
rollin24's said:can u strap 4 amplifiers to one voice coil, even if they are identical, like use the high level input of each amp
AFAIK, 2 is the limit
Is it Crown that uses some "double bridged" technique in certain amps? Like, the second amp's output is tied to the first amp's common, but they're both driven from the same input. So, if you got another pair of amps to drive the other side of the voice coil, (feeding them an inverted signal), there'd be 4 amps driving one voice coil.
Or was this just something I dreamed after eating a little too much salsa and nacho chips?
Or was this just something I dreamed after eating a little too much salsa and nacho chips?
rollin24's said:is it always better to run the amp wiring setup as low ohms as posible?... thats wat i thought, because i wana buy sum alpine amps and there only 2 ohm stable
No, you wire it to match the amp, 1 ohm is no better than 4 ohm unless the amp you're using puts out more power at 1 ohm than 4 ohm.
If the amp puts out full power at 4 ohm then that's what you would want to run it at. If the amp puts out full power at 2 ohm then that's what you would want to run it at. If the amp puts out full power at 1 ohm then that's what you would want to run it at.
When building the sub setup, you should pick the subwoofer first, then pick an amp to give you the power you want, then pick the voice coil arrangement on the sub that will let you wire it to match the amp (if there are multiple voice coil choices, if not then when picking an amp, you need to pick one that matches both your power and impedance requirements).
I don't know why you're looking at wiring so many amps to a single coil on a sub...there are amps out there that can do 3,000 rms, there's absolutely no reason to have more than one of those unless you're doing SPL competition.
either 1 or 4 would work, it depends on what amp you pick. A bridged 2ch amp would most likely put out full power at 4 ohm, so if you go that route that's what you would wire to. A mono amp would most likely put out full power at 1 or 2 ohm, 2 ohm wouldn't work well in this case (since it couldn't do 1, you'd have to do 4, and you'd lose power), but a 1 ohm stable amp would, and if you go that route that's what you would want to wire to.
The main reason for low impedance drivers in the car is that for lower impedance, you need less voltage and more current for some certain amount of power than you do for higher impedance.
In the car, you have normally 12V to go with. The amplifier uses a switching power supply to step this up to a useable voltage for driving speakers.
For any large power output, 1 ohm is a bit hard to do because of the enourmous amount of current required. 2 ohms is common in cars for many applications, and also 4 ohms.
The important thing here is to find a speaker that you like, be it 2 or 4 ohms most likely. Personally I prefer 4 ohms in a lot of cases, but that's nothing more than preference since you can achieve the same performance with either.
After you choose your speaker, you must select an amplifier that is up to the task. Any amplifier capable of driving 'x' ohms will always be capable of driving x+n(higher impedance) loads generally; the only thing being that its maximum possible output will only ever be attained when loaded to the lowest impedance it supports.
Sometimes listeners prefer more control and headroom and want to let their amplifiers run easy. This means they may choose to use a 4 ohm stable amplifier to run 8 ohm speakers. This usually works very well but at lower possible power.
I hope this will help you make your decision; and remember that this is not all as scientific as it may seem. The task of finding what equipment you like together in a system is very preferential, objective, and experimental.
In the car, you have normally 12V to go with. The amplifier uses a switching power supply to step this up to a useable voltage for driving speakers.
For any large power output, 1 ohm is a bit hard to do because of the enourmous amount of current required. 2 ohms is common in cars for many applications, and also 4 ohms.
The important thing here is to find a speaker that you like, be it 2 or 4 ohms most likely. Personally I prefer 4 ohms in a lot of cases, but that's nothing more than preference since you can achieve the same performance with either.
After you choose your speaker, you must select an amplifier that is up to the task. Any amplifier capable of driving 'x' ohms will always be capable of driving x+n(higher impedance) loads generally; the only thing being that its maximum possible output will only ever be attained when loaded to the lowest impedance it supports.
Sometimes listeners prefer more control and headroom and want to let their amplifiers run easy. This means they may choose to use a 4 ohm stable amplifier to run 8 ohm speakers. This usually works very well but at lower possible power.
I hope this will help you make your decision; and remember that this is not all as scientific as it may seem. The task of finding what equipment you like together in a system is very preferential, objective, and experimental.
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