Hi,
Agree with TheBaronGroog: You really need to adjust the width of your enclosure in order to allow for necessary volume consuming cross-bracings, that here should be incorporated overall..+ use a baffle thickness of at least 18 mm.
I believe the 'gray filler material' is wasting volume(especially the ones in the corners that IMO have no function at all if not made of wood(enclosure stiffeners)) but could be replaced with a thinner sheet of denser material (bitumen like) in order to add beneficial mass to your thin rear wall.
IME:It's important to secure a ~third of the volume counting from th S1 area to act like a rigid pressure vessel as maximum pressure occurs in the volume just behind the drivers.
IMO: Move the drivers as close as possible together,thus a clearance gap a few ~mm at max.
b
PS: Adding a simple picture suggesting a HPF to be used + a piecewise revision of the picture I left out yesterday.
latest posted picture
Agree with TheBaronGroog: You really need to adjust the width of your enclosure in order to allow for necessary volume consuming cross-bracings, that here should be incorporated overall..+ use a baffle thickness of at least 18 mm.
I believe the 'gray filler material' is wasting volume(especially the ones in the corners that IMO have no function at all if not made of wood(enclosure stiffeners)) but could be replaced with a thinner sheet of denser material (bitumen like) in order to add beneficial mass to your thin rear wall.
IME:It's important to secure a ~third of the volume counting from th S1 area to act like a rigid pressure vessel as maximum pressure occurs in the volume just behind the drivers.
IMO: Move the drivers as close as possible together,thus a clearance gap a few ~mm at max.
b
PS: Adding a simple picture suggesting a HPF to be used + a piecewise revision of the picture I left out yesterday.
latest posted picture
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