24" polyurethane tubing for landscaping, we used to cut them into a lenght and put them half way down to the ground and a foot above ground, have the dirt filled and put all kind of flowers into.
Check the photo, I'm half way into it. I'll coupe it with a 83db driver and forget the L-pad. I might try a super tweeter for a bit more sparkle. Heeeeeee Hope it sounds good. Let me finish the baffle first and have everything installed. Will let you know for sure.
hi albert,
i hope they didnt rolled off to the sides
u got urself very busy, i saw u with at least 3-4 projects. great, man.
cheers
henry
My lovely wife said I never stop. I've been busy for my business at the day time and again very busy with my hobby after dinner, and sometime early in the morning- the time before I leave to work 7.30 am.
To answer your question, I've done something this afternoon to keep them standing like a rock - hope so heeeeeeeeeeeee.
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Wow! Ya know - - - if you turn those things upside down those wing things on the top would make great feet for the speakers to sit on!!!!
They are the legs. I just turn them down side up in purpose, to let the glue to dry.
Since this is a 57 pages thread, I haven't had time to read it in full.
I'm aiming for 90dB (C) average spl and 105dB (C) peak spl in my upcomming build.
How will the GW-1858 in a H-/U-Frame work?
What are your measured avg/max spl with regard to music?
Running the models it looks like the GW-1858 will bottom out with 4W@30Hz and a measly 90dB spl? If you look at the sims it looks like I would have to apply a really steep HP filter somewhere in the 60-80Hz region?
Forget about the low bass...
It would probably yield a kick *** mid bass though?
So, please share your irl experiences and measurements. If the GW-1858 is to weak I might have to spring for a couple of Dipole18 or go CB in the low bass?
I'm aiming for 90dB (C) average spl and 105dB (C) peak spl in my upcomming build.
How will the GW-1858 in a H-/U-Frame work?
What are your measured avg/max spl with regard to music?
Running the models it looks like the GW-1858 will bottom out with 4W@30Hz and a measly 90dB spl? If you look at the sims it looks like I would have to apply a really steep HP filter somewhere in the 60-80Hz region?
Forget about the low bass...
It would probably yield a kick *** mid bass though?
So, please share your irl experiences and measurements. If the GW-1858 is to weak I might have to spring for a couple of Dipole18 or go CB in the low bass?
Here's how I'm using my MJK Goldwood H-Frames now... Fostex fe108esigma's in BIB cabs firing upwards and hung tight to the wall corners via L-brackets.. Goldwood H-Frames underneath the BIB cabs positioned tight to sidewall and 7'' from the back wall (the actual back of the driver from the magnet is about a foot or so from the wall).. I am able to get away with this due to the open area to the front hallway (I assume).. The sound is excellent with awesome imaging, the musicians are all in the space of the opening between the cabs to the hall, either center stage or off to the left or right depending on the recording etc The bass back at the listening position is really good and very realistic to the instruments being reproduced. The Goldwoods in this design are excellent for the money!.. Time has to be spent on placement but once you dial it all in
The time stamp on this last pic is not valid..
The bass back at the listening position is really good and very realistic to the instruments being reproduced. The Goldwoods in this design are excellent for the money!.. Time has to be spent on placement but once you dial it all inAn externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The time stamp on this last pic is not valid..
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Dave, i've hear BIBs (165k and 168z) with H-frames and think it might be one of the best combinations possible for a home stereo. I'm sure what you have there sounds incredible!
Today i downloaded these free test tones for kicks to see how low my Alpha 15 H-frames go... i was enjoying some of my favorite 80s music (Joe Jackson and Yaz) and the bass was so enjoyable.
Test Tones (20-20khz)
I hear and feel 20hz easily, 30hz and up are extremely powerful! But i can't hear a thing above 17khz.
The H-frames are simply great!
Today i downloaded these free test tones for kicks to see how low my Alpha 15 H-frames go... i was enjoying some of my favorite 80s music (Joe Jackson and Yaz) and the bass was so enjoyable.
Test Tones (20-20khz)
I hear and feel 20hz easily, 30hz and up are extremely powerful! But i can't hear a thing above 17khz.
The H-frames are simply great!
Hi Jeff, The H-Frames are a great deal in audio for sure and sound very good I'd love to try a larger FR driver one day like the ones you mentioned but for now all is good.. My next purchase will be a DAC, probably the next MKIII offering from Gigawork when it gets released.. If you ever feel like trying out the 18'' Goldwoods in the H-Frame, they are cheap enough to give a go and sound really good also as with the Alpha's, but offer that big block factor lol
I have an old reference cd by Alpine audio, and 20hz is there but my hearing duds out after about 15,000 cycles.. Not bad for a mid 40's male who used to blast his Marshall at very loud volumes back in the day
I'd love to try a larger FR driver one day like the ones you mentioned but for now all is good.. My next purchase will be a DAC, probably the next MKIII offering from Gigawork when it gets released.. If you ever feel like trying out the 18'' Goldwoods in the H-Frame, they are cheap enough to give a go and sound really good also as with the Alpha's, but offer that big block factor lolI have an old reference cd by Alpine audio, and 20hz is there but my hearing duds out after about 15,000 cycles.. Not bad for a mid 40's male who used to blast his Marshall at very loud volumes back in the day
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H Frame in 'wonderland style'
I lately re-do my H Frame with some polyurethane pipe with ID 24", OD 30". I filled the ID so to make it 21". The size is very humble and my old daring's face changing color like rainbow every time she looks at them. I quickly have them moved to my basement after finishing the paint. Still have to wait for some parts to come. Stay tune.
I lately re-do my H Frame with some polyurethane pipe with ID 24", OD 30". I filled the ID so to make it 21". The size is very humble and my old daring's face changing color like rainbow every time she looks at them. I quickly have them moved to my basement after finishing the paint. Still have to wait for some parts to come. Stay tune.
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Well I have finally put the bits together to make some noise and WOW! The sound has amazed me. I have never really listened to a “good” sound system before and the difference is amazing. I was expecting my wife to get most of the benefit as she is the musician and I have been working in loud environments for years, but I can hear little things in music that I have been listening to for years and had no idea was there.
As you can see from the pic, I made a few modifications to the dimensions which with hindsight was a bad decision, though it does place the drivers at the height of the TV where a large % of there use comes from.
There is one thing that I do need to improve and that is the bass volume. While the lower frequencies are defiantly there and are wonderfully clear, they are at levels significantly lower than the midrange (and while I can't be sure without measurement I think there is a big dip around the crossover region). This is probably caused by 1. my modification, 2. my positioning of them so close to the wall and 3. driving them with a HT receiver. Over the next few days I will try playing around with different outputs of the HT amp (bi amping and connecting the H-frame to the sub output) but if that doesn't work I will build some sort of amp.
Any suggestions or guidance on what might be worth a try would be appreciated.
As you can see from the pic, I made a few modifications to the dimensions which with hindsight was a bad decision, though it does place the drivers at the height of the TV where a large % of there use comes from.
There is one thing that I do need to improve and that is the bass volume. While the lower frequencies are defiantly there and are wonderfully clear, they are at levels significantly lower than the midrange (and while I can't be sure without measurement I think there is a big dip around the crossover region). This is probably caused by 1. my modification, 2. my positioning of them so close to the wall and 3. driving them with a HT receiver. Over the next few days I will try playing around with different outputs of the HT amp (bi amping and connecting the H-frame to the sub output) but if that doesn't work I will build some sort of amp.
Any suggestions or guidance on what might be worth a try would be appreciated.
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My very humble speakers are singing for me for almost 20 hours now and it sounds very deep and wide with thundering bass. The RS100-8 is a bit small so I don't expect it sounds as big as the 8" driver. It sounds not bad with smooth sound through the whole spectrum, but lack of mid bass kicks and cello was found a bit too thin. There is lot of room for me to tweak it.
I have 51uf 9mH on the RS100, 1uf 0.25mH on the tweeter and 150uf 13mH on the 1858.
I have 51uf 9mH on the RS100, 1uf 0.25mH on the tweeter and 150uf 13mH on the 1858.
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Yes, I did fix the baffle for the RS100. I can replace the A12 back there, I miss that so much. The RS100 sounds a bit too small in my room. I try it on for matching the 1858 and see what wonder they could do.
Another idea, I would instead consider matching the A12 with Eminence A15, A15 97db and A12 89.3db. What do you think/idea ???
Albert
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