Mario. The most important most important thing with working solid wood starts with selecting the wood. To make sure movement is absolute minimal kiln dried quarter sawn wood has to be used. It's also good to use locally harvested wood they're already a little acclimated to your environment and it's good to support a small hometown business. Once milled and laminated it's pretty much the same as plywood except that it needs to be finished on the inside before assembling and yes the grain orientation.
Studio Au. I did build a pair of mFonkens for ChrisB out of black walnut that were posted by Dave earlier in this thread for me.
Don, hopefully we'll be able to cross paths this years fest.
Bernie
Studio Au. I did build a pair of mFonkens for ChrisB out of black walnut that were posted by Dave earlier in this thread for me.
Don, hopefully we'll be able to cross paths this years fest.
Bernie
+10 to that!
I used some oak in my ufonkenSET that was flatsawn questionably close to the core of the tree, and it started to crack with the first season change. They still sound great, but to have all those hours of work undermined by one dumb decision is really frustrating.
I used some oak in my ufonkenSET that was flatsawn questionably close to the core of the tree, and it started to crack with the first season change. They still sound great, but to have all those hours of work undermined by one dumb decision is really frustrating.
Yes, I'll look forward to it !Mario. The most important most important thing with working solid wood starts with selecting the wood. To make sure movement is absolute minimal kiln dried quarter sawn wood has to be used. It's also good to use locally harvested wood they're already a little acclimated to your environment and it's good to support a small hometown business. Once milled and laminated it's pretty much the same as plywood except that it needs to be finished on the inside before assembling and yes the grain orientation.
Studio Au. I did build a pair of mFonkens for ChrisB out of black walnut that were posted by Dave earlier in this thread for me.
Don, hopefully we'll be able to cross paths this years fest.
Bernie
I really like that cedar, Bernie! Once pieces are milled, are there other construction issues to be considered by one who's always used ply and never made speakers from solid wood? ….or basically the same but with more care in grain direction?
With solid woods , and (I only use small sizes) , I cut to length and thickness, then find a handy place in the house and leave them there for six months, ( normally the bottom of wardrobes or under the stairs) with lattes in-between. Dutch oil is good way to seal wood and bring out the grain.
Note* I am divorced lol (perhaps one of the reasons why).
It’s not actually about drying the wood out completely, to dry, and it will then absorb moisture and swell and the weaker parts then crack under the pressure. But sealing and maintaining the seal is just as important. Pay particular attention to end grains as this is how wood naturally transports liquids from top to bottom.
Actually not the most monster size in which we've executed an "onken-esque" enclosure - champ there probably still the Eminence 12LTA - but the older my back gets, the heavier these things seem to get, even if shrunk in size to fit the driver's T/S P and Dave's alignment.
How did they sound? er, diplomatically speaking - not quite my cuppa "T" I guess. Bass and dynamics out the wazzoo certainly, but for my room (320ft^2) and listening levels, I preferred the FH3/MAOP7s (as seen in the last photo in bottom row)
There, I'm out of the closet and open target now - make it a mercy shot, please
How did they sound? er, diplomatically speaking - not quite my cuppa "T" I guess. Bass and dynamics out the wazzoo certainly, but for my room (320ft^2) and listening levels, I preferred the FH3/MAOP7s (as seen in the last photo in bottom row)
There, I'm out of the closet and open target now - make it a mercy shot, please
I guess Dave likes them more than I - no problem with that
I'd still take A7.3eN or A10PeN over them....
dave
Looking at those monsterOnken I have an idea: I was looking into making a poor man tannoys', something like this: Eminence Beta 10CX by AmpsLab Do you think it is possible to make an onken cab for them? If so, would you be willing to help at least with directions?
Dave, here is the forum thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/232830-eminence-beta-10cx-zma-frd.html
And here is manufacturer specs(which people say are pretty accurate) http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Beta_10CX.pdf
Hope this is enough
And here is manufacturer specs(which people say are pretty accurate) http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Beta_10CX.pdf
Hope this is enough
monster miniOnken for Tannoy 12" Gold. My design, Chris' execution.
First thoughts..... Bookshelf EmKens (have often wondered if the Em Beta 12cx would work in my cabinet)
Very nice Dave, I'm liking the round grills a lot.
Edit:
I see PKI has a similar idea
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Dave draws (if he had his way grilles would likely never be included) , then I translate into something buildable, and maybe modify aesthetics a bit - I lost count at 35hrs for these puppies
sippy - those would need to be substantial bookshelves, I'll maybe weigh later tonight, but my first guess is at least 50lbs ea . Sure a lot of floorstanders are more (I've built a few myself ) but one usually only needs to lift / tilt those enough to set on the fridge dolly .
sippy - those would need to be substantial bookshelves, I'll maybe weigh later tonight, but my first guess is at least 50lbs ea . Sure a lot of floorstanders are more (I've built a few myself ) but one usually only needs to lift / tilt those enough to set on the fridge dolly .
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