Karlson slot for everybody
Hi there, I was wondering if there is a any way that "average" people with "average" enclosures can experience the benefits of the Karlson slot - the dispersion properties for mids & highs - without building a dedicated enclosure. I don't like the form factor on these - needs extra furniture to bring them to correct in room height - plus the general rumor says they don't do well in the deeper bass. Perhaps a standard TL (column shaped enclosure) which is fine with deep bass would benefit with many full range drivers to have something added to improve dispersion - only the slot / acoustic lenses... and then the main question comes - how to do that?
The alternative would be to have a diffusor to reflect the sounds in all directions (or at least front + laterals) something like this - DCT-1 | Parts Express Project Gallery - impressive measurements!
I couldn't find any examples of an enclosure to which the slot was added except this open baffle (of baffless) - Rockin' the KaZba Dipole (K aperture Z-baffle Dipole) - perhaps others can point out where they are (if).
Hi there, I was wondering if there is a any way that "average" people with "average" enclosures can experience the benefits of the Karlson slot - the dispersion properties for mids & highs - without building a dedicated enclosure. I don't like the form factor on these - needs extra furniture to bring them to correct in room height - plus the general rumor says they don't do well in the deeper bass. Perhaps a standard TL (column shaped enclosure) which is fine with deep bass would benefit with many full range drivers to have something added to improve dispersion - only the slot / acoustic lenses... and then the main question comes - how to do that?
The alternative would be to have a diffusor to reflect the sounds in all directions (or at least front + laterals) something like this - DCT-1 | Parts Express Project Gallery - impressive measurements!
I couldn't find any examples of an enclosure to which the slot was added except this open baffle (of baffless) - Rockin' the KaZba Dipole (K aperture Z-baffle Dipole) - perhaps others can point out where they are (if).
That DCT-1 has impressive dispersion, but not impressive FR.
I would feel it very boomy and weak voices.
But with some EQ or DRC, yes, it has the possibility of being very impressive.
You could build a TL/MLTL (bonus, it would act as a stand) and place atop of it a 3" full range in a mini-k. Basically, something similar with the TABAQ or Pensil, with a 0.4x mini-k on top. XO around 400-500Hz. Might be able to make it look pretty enough.
Or again, follow that DCT-1 and again, get a TL/MLTL, with a full range driver facing up and a diffuser above it.
I would feel it very boomy and weak voices.
But with some EQ or DRC, yes, it has the possibility of being very impressive.
You could build a TL/MLTL (bonus, it would act as a stand) and place atop of it a 3" full range in a mini-k. Basically, something similar with the TABAQ or Pensil, with a 0.4x mini-k on top. XO around 400-500Hz. Might be able to make it look pretty enough.
Or again, follow that DCT-1 and again, get a TL/MLTL, with a full range driver facing up and a diffuser above it.
Hello, I'm back and worked on my K after a few months listening to it without the K-aperture. It sounded fine as it is actually, but I found the time to finish building it, by putting some thin carpet on the backside of the K, and the same material on the baffle. I also put some dacron stuffing on the first line, right above the driver's magnet.
I put the K aperture on, and screwed them halfway (there's a gap) and listened to some music. The bass is weak! I am surprised. Is it too much stuffing, or should I attach the K tight? Is the TC9 going to be happier if I put weatherproofing seal around the basket, instead of screwed tight directly to the baffle? Please share your experience. Thanks.
I put the K aperture on, and screwed them halfway (there's a gap) and listened to some music. The bass is weak! I am surprised. Is it too much stuffing, or should I attach the K tight? Is the TC9 going to be happier if I put weatherproofing seal around the basket, instead of screwed tight directly to the baffle? Please share your experience. Thanks.
Started working on a 0.53x in foam core. Will build one, then a pair of 0.4x to carry around, they will be a little smaller and easier to stow away.
I "only" have 4 TC9s so, will need to order some more to finish the second 0.53x later.
Should be almost ready when I start my vacation... tonight!
I "only" have 4 TC9s so, will need to order some more to finish the second 0.53x later.
Should be almost ready when I start my vacation... tonight!
Attachments
with a vent at the top, when the aperture is added, system tuning will go down somewhat - that can be good - or not so good
A Phillips 9710 should be nice in Karlson's K12, the "Dutch K12" and GregB's Karlsonator12, with the Karlsonator having about a half octave more LF extension - K12 might subjectively have a more incisive nature (?)
A Phillips 9710 should be nice in Karlson's K12, the "Dutch K12" and GregB's Karlsonator12, with the Karlsonator having about a half octave more LF extension - K12 might subjectively have a more incisive nature (?)
I need 6, because I want to build 2 pairs... 0ne 0.4x and one 0.53x.
The 0.53x will probably end up at my neighbour's later. He likes good sound, but it's a bit hard money-wise for his family.
Yep, black looks nice, I might even add a wood trim around the outside edges for an even nicer look, and hide the "seams".
I remember a similar experience thinking I preferred them without the aperture, but that was only until it was sealed tight. That's when the bass improved.
I have a quad ready for glue and screws with the exception of couple things. I haven't decided on how I want to support the drivers so the holes aren't cut. I'm weighing different acceptable options. I don't need help with that but I'd like direction with the 16x16 aperture curve shape, the narrow opening width and it's distance from top. The panel is actually 17x17 in half inch foam and square... so it's different. I decided to go ahead with this even though it's not a practical size for it's intended use and not having a mono amp to properly drive it. If I love it I might build two. If I don't I can cut it in half and have 2 .53xs.
Using very thin liteply or the 3/16in thick luaan wood ply underlayment works well too. A good trick is the very heavy triple ply corrugated cardboard that appliances and furniture are shipped in. Glue that on the back of the mounting baffle and drywall screws have pretty good grip on the cardboard for 3-4 removals. Add extra layer of triple ply as small 1in square block for screws to grip. Hotmelt the blocks onto the back.
Thanks X. I just recycled a bunch of that cardboard. I'll probably use some 1/8th mdf that's handy. I might just laminate it to the whole back of the baffle for extra support.
How about this squatty square aperture? I guess I'd like advice on where to start and finish the K opening and how much of the drivers should be covered. I can probably shape it fine from there. 17x17 panel, drivers in a diamond.
How about this squatty square aperture? I guess I'd like advice on where to start and finish the K opening and how much of the drivers should be covered. I can probably shape it fine from there. 17x17 panel, drivers in a diamond.
MDF doesn’t hold screws well if you ever take them out. The aperture is going to be trial and and error. Generally the curve of the aperture is tangent with the surround of the driver. With 4 it’s hard to say and depends on square or diamond arrangement. Go with diamond and make aperture cross over maybe he dust cap of the two drivers on the left and right. Enlarge aperture as necessary to add more treble definition while keeping bass.
Okay, that's a relief, thanks!
Use caulk or weatherstrip on the driver basket is encouraged or not?
How much dacron stuffing is ideal for 0.4x?
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Finally got my pair finished!
Hot glue/white glue construction with the score and fold plans. Liberally stuffed as per the usual ways I've seen them built. I made little stacks of 1/2" x 3/4" stacked three thick as supports for the screws supporting the wing/apertures on.
They sound absolutely fantastic! A smidge heavy on the bass, but not objectionable really. That having been said, is there a passive line-level version of the BSC circuit I can do to try out and see how I like it? I'm not ordering parts any time soon, and don't have a local source for inductors.
For anybody interested, I'm running them off of my 6SN7 push-pull amplifier and with about 1.1w total power, they can easily reach uncomfortable listening levels without audible distortion. Thread is linked in my signature
Hot glue/white glue construction with the score and fold plans. Liberally stuffed as per the usual ways I've seen them built. I made little stacks of 1/2" x 3/4" stacked three thick as supports for the screws supporting the wing/apertures on.
They sound absolutely fantastic! A smidge heavy on the bass, but not objectionable really. That having been said, is there a passive line-level version of the BSC circuit I can do to try out and see how I like it? I'm not ordering parts any time soon, and don't have a local source for inductors.
For anybody interested, I'm running them off of my 6SN7 push-pull amplifier and with about 1.1w total power, they can easily reach uncomfortable listening levels without audible distortion. Thread is linked in my signature
Attachments
Woah, big pictures!
Nice black ones... mine are on the way as well.
A BSC will lower the high end, and make the bass even stronger... Since you already say they are a little bass heavy, don't add a BSC.
Instead, move them to the edge of the counter and away from the wall.
Or open the aperture a bit higher, this will lower the bass.
Nice black ones... mine are on the way as well.
A BSC will lower the high end, and make the bass even stronger... Since you already say they are a little bass heavy, don't add a BSC.
Instead, move them to the edge of the counter and away from the wall.
Or open the aperture a bit higher, this will lower the bass.
Last edited:
I'm about the least knowledgeable builder around here, but I am around enough lately to field a question or two, I suppose. No caulk or weather stripping for the drivers in my build but I did caulk the inside of my cabinets very thoroughly. For the stuffing I just mimicked pictures of successful builds in this thread. I used thin carpet padding on the wall behind the driver and I used some acoustic underlayment (for wood floors) on the back of the wings. Whatever's handy is sort of the approach to many of these foam builds.
Yes, the black ones look fantastic, and I'm jealous of the amp. I have an el84 project with an old terribly abused Sears Silvertone console from 1967 on the to do list. I got behind it tonight and had the damnedest idea. The speaker cabs need to be Karlsonators. I'll try to post pics of it and the quad tomorrow. I've never posted pics here. Anything I need to know first?
