microTower bipolar ML-TL for CHR-70 or EL70

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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
ltorcida said:
Chris,

Thank you for your reply. I don't have real limitations on space but would like to try and start with some sleek floor standings like the one in this thread. I'm thinking in something like 20"-30" tall, no more than 8" wide and about 20" deep. Something not overly complicated to build (this is my first try..!). I have a full woodworking shop (table saw, router, planer....) so no problem that part of the project.
Can you throw some speaker and digital amps brands/models for me to check?

Thanks!

Luis
Click to expand...


With that much depth of floor space available, the first enclosure that comes to mind is the FH3 - designed for drivers nominally ranging from 3-5", and for the most part have been with single FR models such as Fostex FE126E, Mark Audio Alpair7, CHP & CHR70, CSS EL70. Depending on room/ your needs, etc, "sub"woofers might be required, buy since this is your first step and is replacing TV's built in speakers, I'd imagine you could do without for now.

If you're not familiar with the design's aesthetics:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/199849-frugel-horn-mk3-picture-gallery.html



As for digital / Class T amps, the only with which I'm personally familiar are the little Trends and Kingrex - no doubt other members will have numerous suggestions for commercial or DIY models


The Castle Microtower and Pensil would be another option - both simple enough enclosures to build if you don't get carried away with bracing - note that the Microtower doubles the number of drivers, and at 37" the Pensils are taller than you might want. I live with booth of these, as well as have a few hours of listening to the FH3 with various drivers (most extensively the FE126En) - on sonics alone it'd be hard to make a strong recommendation for any of them over the others.
 
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Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
Hi

I wonder if you could share your thoughts?

I have dry fitted the rear of the case and stuck a rubber weather seal to the butting joint. I have also placed the speakers on top of a granite tile but I cannot seem to produce bass. The sound only alters slightly if I remove the lose stuffing. In fact it doesn't change much if I run them with the back panel off!

FrontMedium.jpg


Internal1Medium.jpg


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The CHR70s are wired in series and driven by an F5

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
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zman01

Member
Joined 2011
Richard,

This is strange - such lack of bass... I am stumped... something wring with you seal? Might there be a leak somewhere?

Do you get bass near field?

Can it be the F5? The F5 is reputed to be a superb albeit very neutral amplifier. Can you try something warmer like an old tube amp?

BTW, these are gen 1 or gen 2 CHR-70?
 
Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
zman01 said:
Richard,

This is strange - such lack of bass... I am stumped... something wring with you seal? Might there be a leak somewhere?

Do you get bass near field?

Can it be the F5? The F5 is reputed to be a superb albeit very neutral amplifier. Can you try something warmer like an old tube amp?

BTW, these are gen 1 or gen 2 CHR-70?
Click to expand...

Hi Zia

The seal should be good. The F5 produces good bass with the Brines. No bass near field. A friend ran a pair of Maishowes (CHR Gen1) from this amp and bass was plentiful. These are CHR-70 Gen 1.

I'm sure its something silly I have done :)
 
Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
zman01 said:
Richard,

Have you double checked port diameter and length? Have you cut out the legs from the sides? There needs to be a 1" gap at the bottom IIRC.

-Zia
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I have not cut the legs yet. I have made a template and will run the router over them when the case is glued. The port length is correct. I have a couple pieces of wood under the speakers raising them off the tile. This is of course increasing the height from the base of the port by 18mm. I cant imagine it would totally cancel out the bass though.
 
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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
Are you playing them with the clamps on? The extra mass could very well be lowering the resonant frequency of the panels to within enclosure's tuning range.

As you haven't cut the "legs" yet, does that mean all 4 sides extend past the bottom plate? If so, even though elevated with spacer blocks, you may have effectively created a small hemholtz resonator that is negatively interacting with the longitudinal 1/4 wave resonating action of the enclosure?
 
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Tripmaster

Tripmaster

Member
Joined 2008
chrisb said:
Are you playing them with the clamps on? The extra mass could very well be lowering the resonant frequency of the panels to within enclosure's tuning range.

As you haven't cut the "legs" yet, does that mean all 4 sides extend past the bottom plate? If so, even though elevated with spacer blocks, you may have effectively created a small hemholtz resonator that is negatively interacting with the longitudinal 1/4 wave resonating action of the enclosure?
Click to expand...

Yes, this how they are. I was planning to glue the back on and then route the curves...oh well.
 
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