Not happening Chris
But what about this?
MA Mini-X5.1 Tube Amplifier for AV Home Theater New | eBay UK
actually looks kinda cute - although I'd be a bit worried about long term thermal issues - even with SS rectification, that's a lot of current draw on heaters ( 9A for output tubes alone, and the driver tubes were hard to find operating specs for, but you get the idea)
of course this is just an multichannel amp - you'd still need surround processing, and the 355 pounds price seems too low
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Right... now somebody has got to marry with analog with the digital, and we might have a winner!
Seriously not buying this, but no harm in hoping
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Right... now somebody has got to marry with analog with the digital, and we might have a winner!
Seriously not buying this, but no harm in hoping
To be honest, I haven't paid much attention to what's currently available in stand-alone processors, but might not multichannel HT PC be a cheaper way to go? After all, if you're on a forum like this you already have at least one computer ...
Home Theater Computers - AVS Forum
Chris, you are right... that was my plan earlier. Somehow I didn't find the 10 feet user interface on the PC to my liking. Navigating with a remote controller for the PC was not easy for me on Win XP or Win 7. Windows Media Center was a bit better, but didn't play all formats.
I'll do some reading on the site you linked me too - might unearth some good stuff.
-Zia
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I was going to go 2 channel only with my preamp that I had lying around, but I sold some unused gear and bought the MRX 300 after getting some quality time with a MRX 500. So now I have a receiver again and some of the necessary parts to build multiple F5 amps for a multichannel setup. I think I have a disease.
If you don't want to spend the money though, do not demo one in a store, and most certainly you should not take it home to try.
Music sounded much better on the Denon when bypassing its DAC and only using it for amplification with an external DAC and the pure direct mode enabled.
That would be a much cheaper way to get a multichannel output if you already have a PC and some external amplifiers you want to use.
If you want to run you own amps and have multiple inputs though Yamaha has some cheaper units with preouts, but that would still be about 4 to 6 times as expensive as a multichannel sound card for a PC, and it probably won't outperform the PC.
Rearranged the damping of my Castle MTs according to Dave's diagram, and bingo!
I have very open and live sound coming from the MTs... maybe a tad less bass than before when I had all side walls padded till the bottom - but definitely much tighter and with more definition. Mid range is singing, top end not as bright.
Very good indeed... the system definitely has that "one more track" feeling.
The EL70s in this cab should sound even better.
-Zia
some construction advice needed
I am in the process of building a pair of EL70 castle microTowers and am in need of some advice.
1. I had a nice piece of 1/2" carpet felt left over from my original Half Chang build which would have been perfect for the upper damping were it not for the fact that, in an uncharacteristic fit of wood shop cleanliness, I threw it away last year. It is no longer available at the home center where I bought it (Lowes) and only available in big $122 rolls at Home Depot. What is a good alternative? I have polyester batting, 1/8" cork, and low pile carpet remnants lying around. Any suggestion on easily obtainable material (and not paying $10 shipping for a $10 item) would be appreciated.
2. I have rabbeted the rear sides and top of the case to allow the back to be inset and removable. The fit looks pretty tight (pre glue up) but would it be best to add some sort of gasketing for an airtight seal? foam tape or the like? Material recommendations appreciated.
3. Because of the shorter size over the Half Changs, Muchkin-sized grandchildren, and WAF, I will be adding cloth grills (black acoustic fabric). Having not used grills before, is it better to make a simple 1" frame or to cut a hole @ 1" in diameter wider than the driver in the MDF. Either would be beveled inside and held in place via magnets.
I am in the process of building a pair of EL70 castle microTowers and am in need of some advice.
1. I had a nice piece of 1/2" carpet felt left over from my original Half Chang build which would have been perfect for the upper damping were it not for the fact that, in an uncharacteristic fit of wood shop cleanliness, I threw it away last year. It is no longer available at the home center where I bought it (Lowes) and only available in big $122 rolls at Home Depot. What is a good alternative? I have polyester batting, 1/8" cork, and low pile carpet remnants lying around. Any suggestion on easily obtainable material (and not paying $10 shipping for a $10 item) would be appreciated.
2. I have rabbeted the rear sides and top of the case to allow the back to be inset and removable. The fit looks pretty tight (pre glue up) but would it be best to add some sort of gasketing for an airtight seal? foam tape or the like? Material recommendations appreciated.
3. Because of the shorter size over the Half Changs, Muchkin-sized grandchildren, and WAF, I will be adding cloth grills (black acoustic fabric). Having not used grills before, is it better to make a simple 1" frame or to cut a hole @ 1" in diameter wider than the driver in the MDF. Either would be beveled inside and held in place via magnets.
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my 2 cents:
1) I've found the 1/2" bonded Ultratouch sold in small quantities by Bob at CSS ( any others? ) to be ideal for interior lining of all my speaker builds . Previously we'd been recycling felted cotton and synthetic padding from old speaker boxes, and was introduced to this product by Bob just in time to take over from diminishing stocks. The Ultratouch is also available in 3" batts for home insulation, but that thickness is much harder to work with.
A fair substitute would be something like jute (not chipped or "real" rubber /foam) under-padding, more likely available from a furniture re-upholstery shop than flooring or auto upholsterers. Opinions will vary, but I'm not a fan of any of the foam materials I've used over the years.
2) I'd allow for gasketing via 1/8" thick PSA closed cell foam weather-stipping tape.
3) For most grilles, I find the 1/4" cylindrical neo magnets more than adequate, and use 1/4" MDF for frames - with a 1" margin as you noted, and 45"d inside corner gussets. Use the intersection of 1" layout markings as locators for the magnet holes. Tape the rough cut frames over the driver cutouts and drill through both at the same time with 1/4" brad point bit, with depth set (drill press is most accurate) to approx 1/16" below the surface of driver panels. If the hole is too shallow, good effen luck getting the magnets out. Set the magnets flush with a wood block, and does it go without saying to pay attention to polarity, particularly if the frames will be getting an edge profile?
Thanks Chris,
I've ordered the 3" Ultratouch for the diagonal damping and will check out CSS for the 1/2" stuff. I'm also going to go around begging at a couple of carpet stores in the area for some cut offs of the felt/jute stuff.
I figured I'd need the weather strip tape. Now I'll have to see if I can find it in the middle of the summer.
I'll also be using 1/4" cylindrical rare earth magnets. Since I'm veneering these I'll do the drilling and setting prior to applying the veneer. I'm sure that using the magnets in both the case and the grill will supply more than enough staying power. Mine came with a handy red dot at one end to aid in the polarity determination when separated.
Thanks again. The cases are all dimension cut; the bottoms have their ports installed; I've done the leg cutouts and roughed out the baffles. I'm waiting for the EL70s to arrive before cutting the holes, rabbeting the drivers, fitting the baffles, etc. Then it's a week or two of driver break-in while I do the glue-up, veneering and finishing. I expect I'll have some finished photos in a couple of weeks.
I've ordered the 3" Ultratouch for the diagonal damping and will check out CSS for the 1/2" stuff. I'm also going to go around begging at a couple of carpet stores in the area for some cut offs of the felt/jute stuff.
I figured I'd need the weather strip tape. Now I'll have to see if I can find it in the middle of the summer.
I'll also be using 1/4" cylindrical rare earth magnets. Since I'm veneering these I'll do the drilling and setting prior to applying the veneer. I'm sure that using the magnets in both the case and the grill will supply more than enough staying power. Mine came with a handy red dot at one end to aid in the polarity determination when separated.
Thanks again. The cases are all dimension cut; the bottoms have their ports installed; I've done the leg cutouts and roughed out the baffles. I'm waiting for the EL70s to arrive before cutting the holes, rabbeting the drivers, fitting the baffles, etc. Then it's a week or two of driver break-in while I do the glue-up, veneering and finishing. I expect I'll have some finished photos in a couple of weeks.
Actually it's not all that difficult to maintain the polarity - these little guys tend to align themselves quite efficiently, and I just feed them from the bottom of the stack. Just remember to drill slightly deeper ( 1/16" works for me) than the magnet's thickness with a brad-point bit, and add a drop of white glue before setting them in place with block, just in case the hole is slightly oversized. (almost turned that into something smutty) . Just don't forget which side is which when it comes time to cut any edge profiles and apply the fabric.
Even though these are "only" 4" drivers, the bracing is very important. I'd highly recommend using them, and nesting the driver magnet as tightly as possible without stressing the basket frame.
Enjoy the project, and I hope, the finished sound.
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Without a doubt. I found thin strips of veneer to be my friend when I braced the Half Changs.
I am basically on hold until the EL70s arrive... waiting on some shipping word from CSS.
my gosh, that's a lot of amp for a home theatre, will be nice in the winter
and now that power utilities are campaigning for / or have already commenced upgrading to "smart" meters, will we soon start paying a power-amp factor surcharge for our class A SS or high watt tube amps?
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