Thanks for all the help Salas much appreciated
Had a radio playing through it for about 5 days now looks good on the scope .
Think i will have a listen tonight for the first time
just need to rip my stunt chassis apart to put it into which has 2x class D B&O modules and a unity gain b4 buffer alps Black Beauty pot .
Had a radio playing through it for about 5 days now looks good on the scope .
Think i will have a listen tonight for the first time
just need to rip my stunt chassis apart to put it into which has 2x class D B&O modules and a unity gain b4 buffer alps Black Beauty pot .
Attachments
I'm mostly listening to music from a Allo-Katana-based Roon streamer (which will go in here, together with new UltraBiB and L-Adapter power -- am waiting for the PCBs), and a Bugle-2/Linn LP12/Lyra Helikon SL.
BTW, the Mez housing in the picture is from an old tube-based DAC, the Mal Valve DAconverter, ca 1995.
This will now drive my Elekit TU8600 (of which glimpses are visible in the picture) and Zu Audio Omen DW.
All this electronic is quite new, and is replacing a big Gryphon Tabu integrated amp, the power amp of which had broken many years back. Back then I could not find a way to get it repaired and didn't think I had the skills (should have tried harder, I now know). Anyway, I had replaced its broken output stage with Hypex nc400 class-D units, while using the still-working Gryphon pre amp. It had a very nice phono stage, which I managed to fry a couple of months ago in an ill-advised experiment...
The Bugle-2 was meant to go in front of the Hypex nc400s, which found a new home in a Musical Fidelity A100X housing (cute!) -- which my wife took over for the family room. She loves it driving our "old" Dynaudio Crafft Monitor speakers (it has an Allo BOSS for Roon streaming).
I'll post a picture tour of all this at some point...
The next projects are to replace the Bugle-2 with a Paradise phone stage (I got the boards, but am wondering how to source all the components, some of which seem hard to get), and to build a Pass Lab F6 amp into the Gryphon housing (got the boards, the transformers, and the JFETs). I'm looking forward to alternate between the sweet, sweet sounds of the Elekit B300 SETs and Nelson's FETs.
I found out about DIY audio embarrassingly late in my music listening journey, there is lots to discover and "catch-up" on -- it's very exciting!
BTW, the Mez housing in the picture is from an old tube-based DAC, the Mal Valve DAconverter, ca 1995.
This will now drive my Elekit TU8600 (of which glimpses are visible in the picture) and Zu Audio Omen DW.
All this electronic is quite new, and is replacing a big Gryphon Tabu integrated amp, the power amp of which had broken many years back. Back then I could not find a way to get it repaired and didn't think I had the skills (should have tried harder, I now know). Anyway, I had replaced its broken output stage with Hypex nc400 class-D units, while using the still-working Gryphon pre amp. It had a very nice phono stage, which I managed to fry a couple of months ago in an ill-advised experiment...
The Bugle-2 was meant to go in front of the Hypex nc400s, which found a new home in a Musical Fidelity A100X housing (cute!) -- which my wife took over for the family room. She loves it driving our "old" Dynaudio Crafft Monitor speakers (it has an Allo BOSS for Roon streaming).
I'll post a picture tour of all this at some point...
The next projects are to replace the Bugle-2 with a Paradise phone stage (I got the boards, but am wondering how to source all the components, some of which seem hard to get), and to build a Pass Lab F6 amp into the Gryphon housing (got the boards, the transformers, and the JFETs). I'm looking forward to alternate between the sweet, sweet sounds of the Elekit B300 SETs and Nelson's FETs.
I found out about DIY audio embarrassingly late in my music listening journey, there is lots to discover and "catch-up" on -- it's very exciting!
what to do with plenty of space
Hi friends
I'm working on the B1 in the little spare time I have these days.
I plan to enjoy it as much as possible and then make some adjustments (trying various resistors, hotrod to 200 (if I haven't already
) and not least work out the knobs. (I ditched the Idea of adding a balance. I'll eventually swap the stereo pot and use two mono-pots...
Because I didn't spend attention to the size of the parts/construction, to be sure it all fits I got myself a U3 280 x 280 chassis from modushop. Huge beast that is... so there's plenty of space, which I could use for additional stuff, like
- a nifty on/off relay according to this thread : Power-switch & Volume-control in one?
I'm not sure wether I should insert a DAC and Phono-Pre. And if so, which... they should be an adequate partner for the B1 (thus, they must be good). (On the other hand, I don't think Sala's simplistic RIAA would fit into the box)
What gear would you guys recommend?
thanks!
david
Hi friends
I'm working on the B1 in the little spare time I have these days.
I plan to enjoy it as much as possible and then make some adjustments (trying various resistors, hotrod to 200 (if I haven't already
) and not least work out the knobs. (I ditched the Idea of adding a balance. I'll eventually swap the stereo pot and use two mono-pots...Because I didn't spend attention to the size of the parts/construction, to be sure it all fits I got myself a U3 280 x 280 chassis from modushop. Huge beast that is... so there's plenty of space, which I could use for additional stuff, like
- a nifty on/off relay according to this thread
: Power-switch & Volume-control in one?I'm not sure wether I should insert a DAC and Phono-Pre. And if so, which... they should be an adequate partner for the B1 (thus, they must be good). (On the other hand, I don't think Sala's simplistic RIAA would fit into the box)
What gear would you guys recommend?
thanks!
david
Mezmerize B-1
Hi!
I built the preamp a while back and when I hooked it up I can only hear one channel playing. I immediately suspected the Alps pot because I didn't test it before soldering it in. Upon disassembly of the board from the chassis and checking the pot - it was working fine so it's not the culprit! All the LEDs are lit so I assume they are okay. Forgive my newbie approach to troubleshooting - I'm a newbie. So now I'm lost. Can anybody direct me what or where to start investigating? Help please? I may be able to upload some photos here....
Hi!
I built the preamp a while back and when I hooked it up I can only hear one channel playing. I immediately suspected the Alps pot because I didn't test it before soldering it in. Upon disassembly of the board from the chassis and checking the pot - it was working fine so it's not the culprit! All the LEDs are lit so I assume they are okay. Forgive my newbie approach to troubleshooting - I'm a newbie. So now I'm lost. Can anybody direct me what or where to start investigating? Help please? I may be able to upload some photos here....
Attachments
Hi there,
Check the small black & white signal connectors first. Trace their continuity with the DMM between RCAs and input/output pads. Next contact problem suspicion could be looking all over for cold joints and retouching them with the iron.
To check the whole route including semiconductors and relay you could hook up a sinewave generator on the silent channel's input (even a PC or a mobile phone with a gen app will do. Set 300Hz 1V RMS) and trace the signal path with the DMM on ACV mode all the way to the RCA output. Red probe on path points black on ground. See where it stops reading. If signal goes in to a connection or into a part and it does not come out, there should be the problem.
Check the small black & white signal connectors first. Trace their continuity with the DMM between RCAs and input/output pads. Next contact problem suspicion could be looking all over for cold joints and retouching them with the iron.
To check the whole route including semiconductors and relay you could hook up a sinewave generator on the silent channel's input (even a PC or a mobile phone with a gen app will do. Set 300Hz 1V RMS) and trace the signal path with the DMM on ACV mode all the way to the RCA output. Red probe on path points black on ground. See where it stops reading. If signal goes in to a connection or into a part and it does not come out, there should be the problem.
Hello I am on the market for parts required to assemble the Mesmerize DCB1. I see that diyaudio store sells the quad of matched LSK170. The project requires then other 6 LSK170 un-matched. I assume that un-matched means that any LSK170 is fine and no measurements are required to select them.
In my mind this means that I should order a quad of 4 matched LSK170 (29$) plus 6 unmatched LSK170 (which should cost less since the matching process is not performed), but the diyaudio store only offer matched items. I do not know how to order the 6 un-matched in addition to the 4 matched ones.
Was I clear enough....I hope.
Is there any administrator of the diyaudio shop who can help me.
Many thanks.
Glicioto
In my mind this means that I should order a quad of 4 matched LSK170 (29$) plus 6 unmatched LSK170 (which should cost less since the matching process is not performed), but the diyaudio store only offer matched items. I do not know how to order the 6 un-matched in addition to the 4 matched ones.
Was I clear enough....I hope.
Is there any administrator of the diyaudio shop who can help me.
Many thanks.
Glicioto
Thank you for the info. What is the maximum cable length you recommend (without using 2nd pair of cables)? Is there other types of JFETs with higher bias current that will work with this buffer to drive longer cables?
Well theoretically NO!, but I use a 20ft cable to connect my Rega Turntable/RIAA/B1 Buffer setup to F6 which is kept on the other end of the room and there have been no issues so far. I am not using any fancy cable, its branded as Nikabe Audio cable, looks sturdy. I have to keep the turntable far from the Amp due to interference issues.
10 feet of regular coaxial cable or 20 feet of low capacitance coaxial cable like the Blue Jeans LC-1 etc. To stay sounding as good as expected.
Other much stronger JFET or DMOS type is not a viable drop in option. Its about redesigning the whole thing. Given we find something new with same spec as the golden classic K170 Toshiba but simply larger to can both drive stronger and keep sounding the same. Yeah, we would be so lucky
10 feet of regular coaxial cable or 20 feet of low capacitance coaxial cable like the Blue Jeans LC-1 etc. To stay sounding as good as expected.
Other much stronger JFET or DMOS type is not a viable drop in option. Its about redesigning the whole thing. Given we find something new with same spec as the golden classic K170 Toshiba but simply larger to can both drive stronger and keep sounding the same. Yeah, we would be so lucky
Thanks. I still plan on getting the buffer to try out.