Pull the two audio driver boards. Does it still blow the fuse?
If not, try reinstalling one board at a time (power down while installing/removing boards).
If the first board causes the fuse to blow, pull it and try the other one. Do this in only one side of the amp. If both driver boards cause the fuse to blow in the first side, try the same thing in the other side.
If one board causes the fuse to blow no matter which side it's in, the board has problems.
If the amp blows fuses with no driver boards, you may have leaking/shorted outputs.
At an earlier point in this thread, did you finally confirm that the power supply would operate without blowing a fuse with the rectifiers removed?
If not, try reinstalling one board at a time (power down while installing/removing boards).
If the first board causes the fuse to blow, pull it and try the other one. Do this in only one side of the amp. If both driver boards cause the fuse to blow in the first side, try the same thing in the other side.
If one board causes the fuse to blow no matter which side it's in, the board has problems.
If the amp blows fuses with no driver boards, you may have leaking/shorted outputs.
At an earlier point in this thread, did you finally confirm that the power supply would operate without blowing a fuse with the rectifiers removed?
Double-check to make sure that the driver boards are in the sockets properly (pins in the correct holes in sockets).
If they are, measure the DC voltage on the speaker terminals (after the relay has clicked). If it's near 0 volts, it's likely safe to connect a speaker to it. If it produces clean audio, mount it back in the sink and play it into a speaker at a low level for 15 minutes or so. If the amp remains cool and there is no distortion, it's likely that everything is OK. Don't play it for more than a few seconds out of the sink. Class D outputs won't get hot as fast as class AB outputs but if there are driver problems causing excessive heating of the transistors, having it in the sink will help save the transistors.
Had you previously pulled the audio driver boards?
If so, is it possible that you didn't hit the correct holes when reinstalling them (when it was blowing fuses)?
If they are, measure the DC voltage on the speaker terminals (after the relay has clicked). If it's near 0 volts, it's likely safe to connect a speaker to it. If it produces clean audio, mount it back in the sink and play it into a speaker at a low level for 15 minutes or so. If the amp remains cool and there is no distortion, it's likely that everything is OK. Don't play it for more than a few seconds out of the sink. Class D outputs won't get hot as fast as class AB outputs but if there are driver problems causing excessive heating of the transistors, having it in the sink will help save the transistors.
Had you previously pulled the audio driver boards?
If so, is it possible that you didn't hit the correct holes when reinstalling them (when it was blowing fuses)?
yet still not fixed
The amp worked with speakers connected sounded pretty good so i went for a drive so i could test it at a louder volume
The speakers starting to pluse in and out, so i turn the radio of then back on and the amp never came back on.
After taking it apart i hooked it up to a fused power supply and it blows the fuse after the protection and green power led flash for a couple of seconds.
(apond first examing the amp both 40 amp internal fuses where blowen)replaced before testing
The amp worked with speakers connected sounded pretty good so i went for a drive so i could test it at a louder volume
The speakers starting to pluse in and out, so i turn the radio of then back on and the amp never came back on.
After taking it apart i hooked it up to a fused power supply and it blows the fuse after the protection and green power led flash for a couple of seconds.
(apond first examing the amp both 40 amp internal fuses where blowen)replaced before testing
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