Some Fine speakers have been made using MDF. 
With a dust collection system and a table saw the dust from MDF is tolerable on an occasional basis.
However, the real difference in dust occurs when the router comes out.
For this reason alone, I'll try to avoid using MDF in the future.
I'm thankful to read other people's ideas on this issue.
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Use a router table or shaper of you have one. Dust collection is very effective with these tools.
Using a router free hand can make things trickier, but using up spiral cutters and the proper router attachments (with dust collection) helps control dust pretty well.
But I won't deny MDF is not fun if you don't have the means to control it. And even then, it's a trick.
Using a router free hand can make things trickier, but using up spiral cutters and the proper router attachments (with dust collection) helps control dust pretty well.
But I won't deny MDF is not fun if you don't have the means to control it. And even then, it's a trick.
Most hardwood dust is toxic, oak,beech and ash for a kick off. Think about it, insects want to eat trees and trees want to stop them. The difference is that real wood looks great and smells nice so it's forgiven while MDF lacks glamour. It's funny really because MDF is basically paper which is very highly regarded. I wonder what the outlook would be if MDF were hand pressed by Japanese artisans and cost a bundle?
I can get bead board in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" in 4'x8' panels at Lowes. It has a plastic vapor barrier on both sides that is easily removable. Closed cell styrofoam would probably be better, but out here in the weeds, you take what you can get.
I can also try 5.2mm plywood. Who knows?
I can get the previously recommended PL300.
All of the 1/8" and most of the 1/4" Masonite I can get is dry pressed -- i.e. waffle pattern on one side.
Right!
Bob
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plywood is wood, treated to be neutral: alternating wood grain panels. that is why in greek and french it is called "Contreplaqué": it is cross-oriented. MDF isn't wood, it is rough sawdust glued together.
Other than that i have no idea what difference they have in sound. It would be fun to make two twin cabinets using the same amount of money to buy the materials and find out which measures and/or sounds better.
Other than that i have no idea what difference they have in sound. It would be fun to make two twin cabinets using the same amount of money to buy the materials and find out which measures and/or sounds better.
the problem was acoustically speaking, what is better/ MDF or Baltic Birch?
I came here for the entertainment (of seeing what works and what doesn't and maybe a graph or chart thrown in) and information (old threads are nice, but up to date info is better) -- at least I thought that the great debate would be resolved in this thread.
Right now, skip the acoustics -- I am leaning towards BB because of reading about the MDF dust (if I ever build some speakers...).
I came here for the entertainment (of seeing what works and what doesn't and maybe a graph or chart thrown in) and information (old threads are nice, but up to date info is better) -- at least I thought that the great debate would be resolved in this thread.
Right now, skip the acoustics -- I am leaning towards BB because of reading about the MDF dust (if I ever build some speakers...).
I doubt paint will do much when the dust starts flying as the boards are being cut or shaped on a table saw, circular saw, router, or CNC machine. The paint will probably come right off as that happens.
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For me, the huge mess created by working on this. It also does not play in MDF's favor that I enjoy a simple, stained or not, finish straight on the BB-ply, with end-laminations showing. MDF did work well for the box in the end, but I just enjoy working with plywood a bunch more.
IG
Dang it Cal, I thought that would be informative (well it was with the dust issue), but seeing you have built a few speakers in your time, what are your thoughts on MDF vs. BB vs. TB for sound reproduction?
(TB for those uninitated is Tool Box... seriously, check out Cal's pictures -- if nothing else, they will give you a good idea on what you materials can build with).
(TB for those uninitated is Tool Box... seriously, check out Cal's pictures -- if nothing else, they will give you a good idea on what you materials can build with).
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Apart from the fine MDF dust (much finer than ply sawdust) which gets everywhere and is NASTY, MDF tends to swell on edges, because it has so many gaps- they use the least glue they can. If more glue were used (resulting in heavier product) it'd be stronger and more expensive and heavier and probably better overall for speaker cabinets.
As is, it screams "cheap" to me. Add in the working properties (which I hate) and it's something I'd rather use OSB than.
As is, it screams "cheap" to me. Add in the working properties (which I hate) and it's something I'd rather use OSB than.
I think MDF or particle board is ok for shelf bracing or the TL part of a TL or the steps in a Nagaoka horn but for the shell, I use plywood. Regardless of what material is better from a scientific point of view, the plywood just sounds better to me.
MDF is nice to cut though. After bucking the plywood, MDF just seems to go through the blade like butter.
MDF is nice to cut though. After bucking the plywood, MDF just seems to go through the blade like butter.
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