Mark Audio CHP-70 gen.2 cabinet suggestions

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Bare: excuse the question, as I'm too lazy to review all your posts, and you may not have expressed it in any case, but what general type or specific example of amp would be your first , or even second choice in this case?

I guess when I stopped chasing after the "ultimate", my tolerance for varied systems with "lesser" and generally far more affordable equipment increased significantly.
 
I'm trying to limit the long cuts sine I don't have a table saw. I'm using off the shelf lumber at home depot and ended up picking up 4.5 inch wide boards to use as front/back/top and bottom. How much difference would there be if the internal width was changed to 4.5 inches?

Would this change make it pointless? The next size up is 5.5 wide, so I could easily pick up this size instead. It's still not 6 wide though.
 
type: you're still talking about PensilP70.3? Provided the total CSA (cross sectional area) remains the same, the ratio of depth/width of an MLTL can be adjusted somewhat, but in the case of the Pensil, changing the width to accommodate that would alter the slot vent as well. As the length of terminus in this design is only a single layer of material thick, Scott / Dave should pipe in on whether that can be adjusted.

But since the Pensils for this driver is 12" deep, wouldn't you need to glue up multiple pieces to make that width, then rip to size? If so, then I'd suggest you spend the time and materials to cut all parts sizes as drawn.
 
Which in this case is a total of 7.5 in^2 - that math is simple enough, but still doesn't answer the question about joining boards to make the side panels. For 5.5" internal width, those would need to be 11.45" + 2* board thickness.

Then don't forget the overall diameter of the driver's mounting frame, which should be rebated for flush - even 5.5" wide is a very very tight fit for the CH 70 series.
 
Bare: excuse the question, as I'm too lazy to review all your posts, and you may not have expressed it in any case, but what general type or specific example of amp would be your first , or even second choice in this case?
:)
Frankly I was 'unimpressed' with MY CHP70 2's. OK but mostly Mehhh

Tried a few Tripath amps.
Both Chinee Ebay types and even a bespoke DIY effort and found the sounds to be OK but only that.. at best.

Recently did an Upgrade (updatemydynaco.com) on my old and long shelved Dyna st120 and Pat4 Gizmos.
The resultant sounds on the CHP 70 2's was Night and Day better.
I was frankly astounded at the differences. Damned things sound really good.
Tripath stuff was in retrospect nothing more than worthless.
Not to put too fine a point on it.

Now the sounds from these little Guys IS impressive and likely what you guys have been talking about and which I previously seriously doubted even existed.
Electronics apparently DO matter.
 
type: you're still talking about PensilP70.3? Provided the total CSA (cross sectional area) remains the same, the ratio of depth/width of an MLTL can be adjusted somewhat, but in the case of the Pensil, changing the width to accommodate that would alter the slot vent as well. As the length of terminus in this design is only a single layer of material thick, Scott / Dave should pipe in on whether that can be adjusted.

But since the Pensils for this driver is 12" deep, wouldn't you need to glue up multiple pieces to make that width, then rip to size? If so, then I'd suggest you spend the time and materials to cut all parts sizes as drawn.

Yep 7.3. HD had precut boards that are 12 deep.

Which in this case is a total of 7.5 in^2 - that math is simple enough, but still doesn't answer the question about joining boards to make the side panels. For 5.5" internal width, those would need to be 11.45" + 2* board thickness.

Then don't forget the overall diameter of the driver's mounting frame, which should be rebated for flush - even 5.5" wide is a very very tight fit for the CH 70 series.

May be time to get a table saw (& a router too).

:)
Frankly I was 'unimpressed' with MY CHP70 2's. OK but mostly Mehhh

Tried a few Tripath amps.
Both Chinee Ebay types and even a bespoke DIY effort and found the sounds to be OK but only that.. at best.

Recently did an Upgrade (updatemydynaco.com) on my old and long shelved Dyna st120 and Pat4 Gizmos.
The resultant sounds on the CHP 70 2's was Night and Day better.
I was frankly astounded at the differences. Damned things sound really good.
Tripath stuff was in retrospect nothing more than worthless.
Not to put too fine a point on it.

Now the sounds from these little Guys IS impressive and likely what you guys have been talking about and which I previously seriously doubted even existed.
Electronics apparently DO matter.

Have you actually heard any of the Topping amps? They're well built & well reviewed.
 
Yess.. But only as listener of another fellow's gizmo. It was enough.
Reviews are just people typing. Often a Herd reaction.
Those are $100 items, where IMO 80% of the 'Mfg effort' is the Spiffy Box.
But it's such a nice box though ;)
Chinese are increasingly adept/focused on Cosmetics. Clearly with effect :)
 
Yess.. But only as listener of another fellow's gizmo. It was enough.
Reviews are just people typing. Often a Herd reaction.
Those are $100 items, where IMO 80% of the 'Mfg effort' is the Spiffy Box.
But it's such a nice box though ;)
Chinese are increasingly adept/focused on Cosmetics. Clearly with effect :)

Internet is full of people just typing.

I guess the wool's been pulled over my eyes; luckily it wasn't my ears.
 
And since it's your brain (CPU) to which both those sensory input transducers (cameras, mics) are connected, you can just tell yourself " if 'they' don't get what I do from the experience, that's fine" or you could express the sentiment more tersely and retain the use on another f word - I've certainly come close to that ;)
 
And since it's your brain (CPU) to which both those sensory input transducers (cameras, mics) are connected, you can just tell yourself " if 'they' don't get what I do from the experience, that's fine" or you could express the sentiment more tersely and retain the use on another f word - I've certainly come close to that ;)

lol......I try not to pull out the big guns on small targets :D

BTW, I'm considering the slim GR on MA's site instead of the pensil (or may do both). Do you/anyone know what the port size would be if I wanted to convert from round to slot port?
 
I ended up building a modified version of the Pensil's. Internal dimensions are 34.5H x 4.5W x 10D.
 

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Impressions? How do you like them?
Mike

Right now they are only minimally stuffed, but they really opened up in the larger enclosures. Great imaging and the bass is definitely there.

Whatever they are, they aren't pensils then (which are a specific alignment).

I hear you Scott. I ended up following the basic premise of your plans, but modified the dimensions for ease of construction with minimal cuts in mind - I ended up using 4.5 inch wide planks (next size up was 5.5 inches wide) as front/back/top & sides. I kept the driver location the same and I modified the port opening to have pretty much the same volume.

I know that with these changes I probably ended up with a less than optimum enclosure; .90cu/ft vs 1.29cu/ft, but I have to say that they do sound pretty nice none the less.
 
I have a question on these. I only have them stuffed about a 1/4 of the way, up near the top and they sound incredibly natural. No boominess at all; an upright bass sounds, like an upright bass. By changing the dimensions, have I accidentally stumbled onto something (I doubt that :eek:) or could it just be the lucky combination of amp/room with this particular cabinet and driver just jelling?
 
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