Loads there but not many motorised. Can you make a non-motorised one motorised? If not, the Alps Blue is very good (I believe it's almost the same as Black). I think the Alps Blue (motorised) is what came with my now-sold Roksan Caspian amp.
Off topic but I do wonder how easy it would be to add remote control funcionality to my DIY preamp
Simon
Off topic but I do wonder how easy it would be to add remote control funcionality to my DIY preamp
Simon
Brent
Thanks for the tips.
Will change the BG's and do the bridge mod shortly as I'm just building +/-12v Superrayregs for the OPA2134PA's in the CD63KI at the mo.
Gonna do the 5v regs at the same time but with Rayregs for now.
Thomo
Thanks for the offer. Have bought 5x MBR20100CTKPBF at 83p each from Farnell. Sorry. Like the illustration though.
How much modding have you done to your amp?
I've done all Brent's cap upgrades except for replacing C801/802 (output caps). I did add the snubbers though and it improved detail.
Since then I've bought Grado SR125's to replace my 20 year old Beyer DT220's and I wish I'd had the Grado's at the time to hear the differences more clearly.
Been thinking of the Alps Blue motorised upgrade too but felt that the money would be better spent on the CD63 KI source for the time being.
Jim
Thanks for the tips.
Will change the BG's and do the bridge mod shortly as I'm just building +/-12v Superrayregs for the OPA2134PA's in the CD63KI at the mo.
Gonna do the 5v regs at the same time but with Rayregs for now.
Thomo
Thanks for the offer. Have bought 5x MBR20100CTKPBF at 83p each from Farnell. Sorry. Like the illustration though.
How much modding have you done to your amp?
I've done all Brent's cap upgrades except for replacing C801/802 (output caps). I did add the snubbers though and it improved detail.
Since then I've bought Grado SR125's to replace my 20 year old Beyer DT220's and I wish I'd had the Grado's at the time to hear the differences more clearly.
Been thinking of the Alps Blue motorised upgrade too but felt that the money would be better spent on the CD63 KI source for the time being.
Jim
Hi Jim.
To be honest my amp is quite standard, just the small caps changed for Polystyrene and a couple of others changed for Silmics. I found the sound was too bright and forward for my speakers, I didn't have to put up with it for long though as I blew it up doing more mods!
It's nearly fixed (I think) just two more transistors to buy.
I also changed the output caps cos I don't rate those little things that are already in there.
Have you upgraded the tx yet? Maybe quite pricey but will defo be worth it imo.
Lee.
To be honest my amp is quite standard, just the small caps changed for Polystyrene and a couple of others changed for Silmics. I found the sound was too bright and forward for my speakers, I didn't have to put up with it for long though as I blew it up doing more mods!
It's nearly fixed (I think) just two more transistors to buy.
I also changed the output caps cos I don't rate those little things that are already in there.
Have you upgraded the tx yet? Maybe quite pricey but will defo be worth it imo.
Lee.
Hi Lee
No the tx is the standard beefy toroid (KI version) so I hadn't thought it needed an upgrade, although Brent now has two!!! (These Yorkshiremen always have to go one better!)
Bummer about the output stage. There have been quite a few posts about the rebuild on other PM66 threads, so it seems quite common.
I did as Brent suggested and moved my bias transistors on to the main heatsinks as they do run quite hot. Are you going to do that while you are rebuilding?
I've also seen somewhere questions about running bigger output transistors if you haven't already got them. Might give it a try if I fry something when I do the bridge mod.
Good luck with the rebuild
Jim
No the tx is the standard beefy toroid (KI version) so I hadn't thought it needed an upgrade, although Brent now has two!!! (These Yorkshiremen always have to go one better!)
Bummer about the output stage. There have been quite a few posts about the rebuild on other PM66 threads, so it seems quite common.
I did as Brent suggested and moved my bias transistors on to the main heatsinks as they do run quite hot. Are you going to do that while you are rebuilding?
I've also seen somewhere questions about running bigger output transistors if you haven't already got them. Might give it a try if I fry something when I do the bridge mod.
Good luck with the rebuild
Jim
Hi Jim
I posted a few pages back about bigger output transistors that I ran without any problems on my test KI amp. I will change to these output transistors later on as I wanted to make sure the new heatsink was ok for the standard transistors first.
The transistors are 150W devices - 2SA1943 and 2SC5200 from Farnell
Brent
I posted a few pages back about bigger output transistors that I ran without any problems on my test KI amp. I will change to these output transistors later on as I wanted to make sure the new heatsink was ok for the standard transistors first.
The transistors are 150W devices - 2SA1943 and 2SC5200 from Farnell
Brent
I have a few places I buy manuals from.
http://www.electronicsrepair.net/scemes.html
http://www.user-manuals.com/
http://www.manualscenter.com/
Or of course do a google search
Brent
http://www.electronicsrepair.net/scemes.html
http://www.user-manuals.com/
http://www.manualscenter.com/
Or of course do a google search
Brent
It's a Marantz, looks like a CD-63 without a tray!
Very OT so I'll keep it short.
Picked it up cheap as my old Denon is a bit iffy, purely because it matches the other stuff, but it sounds better than the Denon did anway and it's in mint condition. Has the RC-5 in so 66KI remote works it.
It sounded nice but a bit shut in. All I did so far was:
1) changed the RCAs for gold ones. I had some new ones handy anyway that were PCB-mounted and exactly the same but gold (same make).
2) changed the output caps from 4.7uF/63V SME (Chemicon?) to 10uF/50V BG N.
3) The stereo decoder (Sanyo LA3401) is along way from the 12V reg and only had 100nF on its power pin. Changed to 220uF/35V Panasonic FC with 10nF Wima MKP underneath.
This has extended the sound in both frequency extremes and opened out the stereo image hugely. The really badly compressed commercial stations probably sound a bit worse now, but BBC stations sound much better.
The decoder has built-in op-amps that also perform the de-emphasis and the feedback caps are ceramic. I must change these. They are grey with the tops painted purple and say n18 on them. 180pF? I wonder what the grey/purple thing is about?
Very OT so I'll keep it short.
Picked it up cheap as my old Denon is a bit iffy, purely because it matches the other stuff, but it sounds better than the Denon did anway and it's in mint condition. Has the RC-5 in so 66KI remote works it.
It sounded nice but a bit shut in. All I did so far was:
1) changed the RCAs for gold ones. I had some new ones handy anyway that were PCB-mounted and exactly the same but gold (same make).
2) changed the output caps from 4.7uF/63V SME (Chemicon?) to 10uF/50V BG N.
3) The stereo decoder (Sanyo LA3401) is along way from the 12V reg and only had 100nF on its power pin. Changed to 220uF/35V Panasonic FC with 10nF Wima MKP underneath.
This has extended the sound in both frequency extremes and opened out the stereo image hugely. The really badly compressed commercial stations probably sound a bit worse now, but BBC stations sound much better.
The decoder has built-in op-amps that also perform the de-emphasis and the feedback caps are ceramic. I must change these. They are grey with the tops painted purple and say n18 on them. 180pF? I wonder what the grey/purple thing is about?
Nothing like the ST-6000. No RDS or anything. There was an ST-65 that looked the same but had two extra buttons and RDS.
The stereo decoder is the same as my Denon TU-660L, but Denon buffered it with an op-amp (JRC4558). I replaced that in the Denon with 2xBUF634 (open-loop buffers) and it made it much better, but the unbuffered Marantz sounds better still.
Looks like a standard Mitsumi front-end and the bare minimum of parts. Mostly fresh air! The CPU board is mounted behind the display leaving the main PCB for RF/AF.
No switchable IF bandwidth, no high-blend, not even a signal meter. The Denon has all this and sounds worse....
The stereo decoder is the same as my Denon TU-660L, but Denon buffered it with an op-amp (JRC4558). I replaced that in the Denon with 2xBUF634 (open-loop buffers) and it made it much better, but the unbuffered Marantz sounds better still.
Looks like a standard Mitsumi front-end and the bare minimum of parts. Mostly fresh air! The CPU board is mounted behind the display leaving the main PCB for RF/AF.
No switchable IF bandwidth, no high-blend, not even a signal meter. The Denon has all this and sounds worse....
SimontY said:Why don't you start a thread for it Glenn? I'd like to see what you do and what results you get. I have a Denon TU-260 that might want upgrading. Altho it gave off some smell and is possibly broken due to not being orientated correctly in my basement.... I break things all the time
I may do if I do much more to it, but I don't think I'll go overboard. Changing the sockets and three caps doesn't warrant a thread!
BTW - in my old Denon, the 12V reg got so hot it unsoldered itself!
That was just before I changed out the op-amp. I had it apart anyway to replace the reg. I also adjusted its signal meter to have a more useful range.
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