Not really no. The problem is with the volt drop and that creates larger amounts of watts and therefore more heat.
5V I = 500mA @ 6.7V input (850mW)
5V I = 300mA @ 7.7V input (810mW)
You would have to run the input to the reg at around 6V and that requires a pre reg or a dedicated psu supply. It would run v warm.
Brent
5V I = 500mA @ 6.7V input (850mW)
5V I = 300mA @ 7.7V input (810mW)
You would have to run the input to the reg at around 6V and that requires a pre reg or a dedicated psu supply. It would run v warm.
Brent
Last edited:
You're welcome!
That cap is not mounted because it has a double: C793. Follow the connection of DAC_AUDIO from the power board, through the main board to the audio board and you'll see. Replacing it by a Black Gate is not very useful, because the cap is far away from the load, which is the DAC. It makes more sense to put the BG's close to the IC's.
As for polystyrenes: I like their sound over silver-mica's, which can be a bit harsh sometimes. But that's my personal experience only, and it depends on what kind/quality caps you use. Cheap polystyrenes can sound even worse
.Regards,
Ray
Hey Brent,
Nice little board! So the best way to run them would be from a regulated 7V supply then, like an LM317 pre-reg? For 5V output that is
.Ray
Hi Ray
Cheers. Yes that is the best way to run them with the SAA7220 but to be honest a SPower HC doing all the work will probably be better than the 'D' with a 317 before it.
The 'D' is designed for newer equipment like Arcam rdacs etc where a 6V input is the maximum voltage and the internal regs are 5V and 3.3V. I will however once my stock levels are higher start swapping a few into my 63 around the dac decoder and servo sections
Brent
Cheers. Yes that is the best way to run them with the SAA7220 but to be honest a SPower HC doing all the work will probably be better than the 'D' with a 317 before it.
The 'D' is designed for newer equipment like Arcam rdacs etc where a 6V input is the maximum voltage and the internal regs are 5V and 3.3V. I will however once my stock levels are higher start swapping a few into my 63 around the dac decoder and servo sections
Brent
I do not translate well in English. you agree with ray? I think so. Right?
thanks
Giorgio
The Flea DIY parts kit
It's awfully quiet ineed
But there's still some action involving these players, because due to ongoing demand for Flea-parts, besides the board i'm offering, I decided to put together a Flea parts kit.
The availability of some components can be problematic sometimes, especially for smaller quantities. Also, very often not all the parts can be obtained at one supplier. So I get a lot of requests for the other components.
The kit contains all the parts to build a Flea-board, excluding the oscillator-module. It has e.g. the AD797, Wima MKS2 caps, Ruby ZLG electrolytics and also includes a Flea board. See my kit page for details (still under construction). All premium parts, no cheap stuff.
The price is non-profit. I order at Farnell regularly anyway, so it goes along with my other things and it's only a little extra trouble for me. If there happens to be a small amount left on my PayPal account, it will be donated to this forum each year. The downside is that I don't sell loose Flea parts anymore, except for the AD797 opamp. This is to keep things simple .
The parts kit can be found here on my shop-page.
Regards,
Ray
It's awfully quiet ineed
But there's still some action involving these players, because due to ongoing demand for Flea-parts, besides the board i'm offering, I decided to put together a Flea parts kit.
The availability of some components can be problematic sometimes, especially for smaller quantities. Also, very often not all the parts can be obtained at one supplier. So I get a lot of requests for the other components.
The kit contains all the parts to build a Flea-board, excluding the oscillator-module. It has e.g. the AD797, Wima MKS2 caps, Ruby ZLG electrolytics and also includes a Flea board. See my kit page for details (still under construction). All premium parts, no cheap stuff.
The price is non-profit. I order at Farnell regularly anyway, so it goes along with my other things and it's only a little extra trouble for me. If there happens to be a small amount left on my PayPal account, it will be donated to this forum each year
. The downside is that I don't sell loose Flea parts anymore, except for the AD797 opamp. This is to keep things simple .The parts kit can be found here on my shop-page.
Regards,
Ray
Last edited:
Hi Ben,
Ok, great! I'm glad my initiative is appreciated. Some parts are a real pain to get hold of it seems, especially the 5mm Wima MKT's, AD797 and Rubycons. It seems that Farnell does not always carry all parts, it depends on what part of the world you're in. I'm quite lucky here in Holland, because I can choose from multiple sources.
I have some kits in stock already, so if you'd like to order, just drop me a mail at the shop's address and i'll mail you the details.
The PSU for the Flea can be quite simple. I usually use a small 15V tranny, schottky rectifier and 7818 for the job. You can easily build it on a piece of veroboard.
Regards,
Ray
Ok, great! I'm glad my initiative is appreciated
. Some parts are a real pain to get hold of it seems, especially the 5mm Wima MKT's, AD797 and Rubycons. It seems that Farnell does not always carry all parts, it depends on what part of the world you're in. I'm quite lucky here in Holland, because I can choose from multiple sources.I have some kits in stock already, so if you'd like to order, just drop me a mail at the shop's address and i'll mail you the details.
The PSU for the Flea can be quite simple. I usually use a small 15V tranny, schottky rectifier and 7818 for the job. You can easily build it on a piece of veroboard.
Regards,
Ray
Last edited:
Very much appreciated, as I could only find minimum orders of 1000 for most of the parts. Just waiting for pay day I was thinking I could build a PSU for both clocks from a single Multicomp miniature 5VA toroid with 2 x 22V secondary windings and separate rectifiers and caps - does that sound reasonable? I've never built one before.
I was thinking I could build a PSU for both clocks from a single Multicomp miniature 5VA toroid with 2 x 22V secondary windings and separate rectifiers and caps - does that sound reasonable? I've never built one before.
Hi Ben,
5VA is more than enough to power two Flea's. I don't think it will be a problem to use one toroid for two Flea's. But you need a lower secondary voltage. 22V AC will give you about 37V DC and that is a bit high (Vac x 1,4142 x 1,18 = Vdc. The extra 18% is the regulation factor, see datasheet). I would recommend 15V secondaries. This will give you 25V. Then use a 7818 for a nice stable Flea-supply.
Regards,
Ray
5VA is more than enough to power two Flea's. I don't think it will be a problem to use one toroid for two Flea's. But you need a lower secondary voltage. 22V AC will give you about 37V DC and that is a bit high (Vac x 1,4142 x 1,18 = Vdc. The extra 18% is the regulation factor, see datasheet). I would recommend 15V secondaries. This will give you 25V. Then use a 7818 for a nice stable Flea-supply.
Regards,
Ray
Last edited:
Just for the record, my 67 took a big leap after the installation of the Flea board and all the other gubbens (bits and bobs) that surround it. I am looking forward (patiently) to more being revealed. I think that's called the awful itch . When I say leap, I'm not talking small beer. Btw Ray is the Man
. When I say leap, I'm not talking small beer. Btw Ray is the Man