It was nasty indeed...
I finished mounting the psu in my new pre and pluged the leads in the double switch in the worst manner... when I switched on there was an instant short of the mains... The mains fuse of the house blew.
As I was not expecting anything wrong, I was using a 3,5A fuse in my circuit to get better sound.... the fuse holder exploded in front of my gogles and parts flew inside the case.....
I am not very happy about this.... Hope nothing more happened
Ricardo
I finished mounting the psu in my new pre and pluged the leads in the double switch in the worst manner... when I switched on there was an instant short of the mains... The mains fuse of the house blew.
As I was not expecting anything wrong, I was using a 3,5A fuse in my circuit to get better sound.... the fuse holder exploded in front of my gogles and parts flew inside the case.....
I am not very happy about this.... Hope nothing more happened
Ricardo
It was nasty indeed...
I finished mounting the psu in my new pre and pluged the leads in the double switch in the worst manner... when I switched on there was an instant short of the mains... The mains fuse of the house blew.
As I was not expecting anything wrong, I was using a 3,5A fuse in my circuit to get better sound.... the fuse holder exploded in front of my gogles and parts flew inside the case.....
I am not very happy about this.... Hope nothing more happened
Ricardo
Ouch! You shorted the phase and neutral instead of switching them, be careful dude!
Yes... I had a big cold during last weekend and insisted in connecting the recently built psu just to check..... I was really tired and did not notice the wire swap (I am using a double switch for phase and neutral).
It is strange that the CDP was not on at the time.... and it played during all next day until it colapsed .
Hope I will not find more damages resulting from my explosive experience
Tomorow I will install the new TX on decoder .... fingers crossed.
Ricardo
It is strange that the CDP was not on at the time.... and it played during all next day until it colapsed .
Hope I will not find more damages resulting from my explosive experience
Tomorow I will install the new TX on decoder .... fingers crossed.
Ricardo
I might've done - via some sort of long range voodoo. Strangely, though, I've extensively modified a CD63 here and it's not stopped working once
It's sounding very good with only one added power supply (for the clock). I've just added some extra RCAs ready for transformer output. I will wire it so each can be used and easily compared.
I do find the CD63 responds well to local mains filtering and CD treatments, thinga I've also re-visited recently.
Simon
It's sounding very good with only one added power supply (for the clock). I've just added some extra RCAs ready for transformer output. I will wire it so each can be used and easily compared.
I do find the CD63 responds well to local mains filtering and CD treatments, thinga I've also re-visited recently.
Simon
I just have a DIY passive capacitor filter plugged in next to it. Something like 15uF across Live and Neutral and 11uF across Neutral and Earth and a small cap across Live and Earth. It's great sonically... but it does cause a little buzz pickup on one of my sources (not a CD player) since adding the big cap across Neutral and Earth - annoying as it improved the sound!!
Principles? It just filters noise.
Across live-neutral film caps rated at 250V AC. There are caps rated for safe mains use and they're classed as X2 for across live and neutral or Y1 or Y2 for across live-earth. You're not meant to connect much across live-earth as it can cause problems on your ring main. Lighting capacitors or motor run capacitors are also safe for mains use. Mine are mainly 2.0uF and are in plastic cans designed for mains use (seven of them). I also have a 500VAC 220nF film cap (very high quality) across live-neutral, plus a few VDRs to quench spikes.
Across neutral-earth a smaller voltage rating is ok and I have a 10uF MKP 400VDC and a couple of others.
Across live-neutral film caps rated at 250V AC. There are caps rated for safe mains use and they're classed as X2 for across live and neutral or Y1 or Y2 for across live-earth. You're not meant to connect much across live-earth as it can cause problems on your ring main. Lighting capacitors or motor run capacitors are also safe for mains use. Mine are mainly 2.0uF and are in plastic cans designed for mains use (seven of them). I also have a 500VAC 220nF film cap (very high quality) across live-neutral, plus a few VDRs to quench spikes.
Across neutral-earth a smaller voltage rating is ok and I have a 10uF MKP 400VDC and a couple of others.
You need to be very carefull with the caps to earth! If you have an ELCB (Earth leakage Circuit Breaker) you will get false trips if the capacitance is too high. I read somewhere what the recommended maximum value is and its very very low! I'll try to find it.
Also there are a few other considerations to do with power factor correction that you need to consider before adding very high capacitance accoss the mains!!! Too much capacitance may run you in to trouble with you electricity supplier!!!!
Brent'll get into trouble before I do then LOL. Certain Russ Andrews products put at least 30uF across live and neutral so I feel pretty safe with my 14uF. His gear will have to pass rigorous tests to be legal to sell.
Live to earth can only be tiny, I have also read this, it's why Y-rated caps only go up to about 47nF or something. I have only used one such cap here.
Simon
Live to earth can only be tiny, I have also read this, it's why Y-rated caps only go up to about 47nF or something. I have only used one such cap here.
Simon
LOL! me too! TBH i don't think it makes much difference at th levels we are talking about but you are right about the "Y" class for L-E and N-E. You should never put any cap other than type Y accros to earth
See here Filter capacitor: Definition from Answers.com
I think I used type Y 0.047 to earth (although i believe the maximum recommended value is 0.022uF) and correctly spec'd self healing (lots of) for my filter
See here Filter capacitor: Definition from Answers.com
I think I used type Y 0.047 to earth (although i believe the maximum recommended value is 0.022uF) and correctly spec'd self healing (lots of) for my filter
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4n7 across Neutral - Earth and NO more.
There's a really good reason for this: if there is an earth fault anywhere upstream, a large cap can raise the case - of everything else connected to the faulty earth - to a high voltage. 4n7 limits the current, and therefore teh shock potential, to about 0.5mA - which is still a very hefty sting, but below the level which stars to become really dangerous (1mA)
Equally, Neutral is a Phase conductor. Not less than Class X1(to L) or Class Y caps (to earth) may or should be used. This is non-negotiable IMO.
Really big caps across L-N domestically are just a plain wasteful idea. 30uF means 2.5A of reactive current - you don't get billed for it, but it creates waste in the generation network from heat etc just like a 2.5A load would (thats 600VA...). It also does not necessarily help (acoustica.org.uk: shocking! - scroll down a bit past 'Don't try this at home'...)
There's a really good reason for this: if there is an earth fault anywhere upstream, a large cap can raise the case - of everything else connected to the faulty earth - to a high voltage. 4n7 limits the current, and therefore teh shock potential, to about 0.5mA - which is still a very hefty sting, but below the level which stars to become really dangerous (1mA)
Equally, Neutral is a Phase conductor. Not less than Class X1(to L) or Class Y caps (to earth) may or should be used. This is non-negotiable IMO.
Really big caps across L-N domestically are just a plain wasteful idea. 30uF means 2.5A of reactive current - you don't get billed for it, but it creates waste in the generation network from heat etc just like a 2.5A load would (thats 600VA...). It also does not necessarily help (acoustica.org.uk: shocking! - scroll down a bit past 'Don't try this at home'...)
Is that due to the change in current phase? Do newer digital meters still rely on the 90° phase difference to measure the used electiricty? If not, you would still be charged for the useage????