Yes, get used to it, DC blocking is everywhere 
A phono-cartridge doesn't like DC, so you'd better leave those in. But, for example, if your tuner has a cap at the output, and your preamp has a cap on the tuner-input, one of them can be jumpered. I don't have any caps at the inputs of my tubeamp, all of them are located in the sources. Since most commercial equipment has caps on the outputs anyway, I made all my inputs DC.
Ray
A phono-cartridge doesn't like DC, so you'd better leave those in. But, for example, if your tuner has a cap at the output, and your preamp has a cap on the tuner-input, one of them can be jumpered. I don't have any caps at the inputs of my tubeamp, all of them are located in the sources. Since most commercial equipment has caps on the outputs anyway, I made all my inputs DC.
Ray
6h5c said:And all voltages are normal without the opamps plugged in? Then logic and reason dictate it must be a defective opamp
..............
SimontY said:
6h5c said:
At what point are you measuring the voltages on the opamps ?
If the opamp is not drawing excess current to give the voltage drop, then it must be a higher impedance on the supply line . so...inline resistor, bad solder joints, bad socket..?
To eliminate tha dac, lift some legs and swap connections from L to R
Andy
I measured the voltage directly at each op-amp (left = 10.7V, right = 11.7). There is no doubt whatsoever that the voltage drop is occurring at the left op-amp.
Ray,
If I go back and see Steve again I'll check some more DAC voltages... or Steve can when he gets his new multi-meter.
Simon
Ray,
If I go back and see Steve again I'll check some more DAC voltages... or Steve can when he gets his new multi-meter.
Simon
Hi all
Simon thanks for the reply, are you saying the 63 won't perform as well as the 67 until servo re-clocking or that the 67 cannot out perform a 63 once done?
Another qustion i've been working on the output filter and have run into a space issue.
RD21-24 are listed as 10k 0.1% but with the caps fitted at CD06 and 13 i cant get the 10ks in
I have ZA 25v100 or ZLH 16v100 could these go in? or is it possible to mount the 10ks below the board?
At R651-654 on the 67 i fitted 100uH/1R7 but i think you guys hard wire there is that correct?
Lastly at C814 Rays page lists a 16v 3300 pana fc i have a 25v 1000 RJH is it worth fitting or should i get a 3300? I have fitted ZLH 16v 1000s at C605/06 i could swap them over?
Thanks all Ian
Simon thanks for the reply, are you saying the 63 won't perform as well as the 67 until servo re-clocking or that the 67 cannot out perform a 63 once done?
Another qustion i've been working on the output filter and have run into a space issue.
RD21-24 are listed as 10k 0.1% but with the caps fitted at CD06 and 13 i cant get the 10ks in
I have ZA 25v100 or ZLH 16v100 could these go in? or is it possible to mount the 10ks below the board?
At R651-654 on the 67 i fitted 100uH/1R7 but i think you guys hard wire there is that correct?
Lastly at C814 Rays page lists a 16v 3300 pana fc i have a 25v 1000 RJH is it worth fitting or should i get a 3300? I have fitted ZLH 16v 1000s at C605/06 i could swap them over?
Thanks all Ian
Yes that's obvious. Yours have been changed how many times? Both my current used CD-53 MkII and my former bought new CD-53 has changed their mechs.
Find a genuine Philips CDM12.x (VAM 12.02 or more?) if you can. Right now I don't know where to find one... and eBay have many wich I guess are copies but this one I bought in case... it has both marks wich use to be seen only on real stuff, paper label and on PCB.
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130312453936
Side note: anyone knows where I may find a CDM4/19?
Find a genuine Philips CDM12.x (VAM 12.02 or more?) if you can. Right now I don't know where to find one... and eBay have many wich I guess are copies but this one I bought in case... it has both marks wich use to be seen only on real stuff, paper label and on PCB.
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130312453936
Side note: anyone knows where I may find a CDM4/19?
Thanks Ian,
it's the one I've asked the seller if he would be kind enough to send it to France...
Anyway, I've applied 10V to my flipflop IC for some seconds, do you think guys it's worth try it or is it killed for sure? It's rated 7V max...
Also, anyone fitted a switch for the display supply and did it sounded better? Waste of time? The left headphones socket may be a nice place to fit one... maybe it's dangerous for the display to switch it while powered?
Matthieu
it's the one I've asked the seller if he would be kind enough to send it to France...
Anyway, I've applied 10V to my flipflop IC for some seconds, do you think guys it's worth try it or is it killed for sure? It's rated 7V max...
Also, anyone fitted a switch for the display supply and did it sounded better? Waste of time? The left headphones socket may be a nice place to fit one... maybe it's dangerous for the display to switch it while powered?
Matthieu
padman said:
If swapping the laser doesn't help, it's possible something else is wrong, or both lasers are weak?? Check the ribbon cable between the transport and the main PCB, it is very sensitive to bad connections. If you have a scope, check the amplitude of the HF signal.
Regards,
Ray