RCruz said:
When I hooked the psu to the sregs, the +12v blew.
After repairing the sreg, it started to output +26v.
Hard times
Ahh, the joys of modding..................
I know only too well how you feel, and so does Simon...........
You wouldn't be a true modder if you'd never experienced the frustrations - as soon as you've made the mistake you realise you knew better and shouldn't have done it.
But.. a moment's lapse in concentration and you start calling yourself "you stupid b******!" etc
Regards,
Jim
PS Only joking Simon me old mate!!
jimh0612 said:Ahh, the joys of modding..................
But.. a moment's lapse in concentration and you start calling yourself "you stupid b******!" etc
Well, this time things where not that bad.
I managed to repair the pcb when replacing the faulty sreg.
At the same time I needed to redo the connection for the star GND (loose), so I decided to remove C803 and C804.
Now I only have 2x10.000uF Nichicon before the +-12v regs.
Inittially I believed I heard less bass... but after some burning the sound is more detailed.
All this was needed to save some space for the clock PSU.
It was difficult but the outcome was ok.
Thanks to you all I hear the music again.
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Didn't/don't you have a slightly over-the top-capacitor array? I think with that level of capacitance you might introduce noise into the circuit and are finding improvements here and there from good smoothing but also hearing the effects of problems it's possibly causing.
If you can't spend a lifetime learning how to model the theoretically perfect power supply, then a high level of experimentation makes perfect sense. I always enjoy reading your comments.
Simon
RCruz said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Voilà !
And I'll move regs closer to opamps when I buy Sercal's stuff.
Enough work for now
Music!
Malefoda said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Voilà !
And I'll move regs closer to opamps when I buy Sercal's stuff.
Enough work for now
Music!
Thank you Matthieu.
I see you connected the clock in U196 in the hole near the dac.
I must move CD05 a little to place the C1 there.
Regards
Ricardo
Malefoda said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Voilà !
And I'll move regs closer to opamps when I buy Sercal's stuff.
Enough work for now
Music!
Now you haven't made a groundloop, haven't you ?
Do you have a dedicated psu to the Flea - with no connection from this GND to the players GND. If so, it's ok to connect both clock and GND wire to the main board as you have done.
avr300 said:
Right, dedicated PSU for the Flea
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/9720/newcd53vq7.jpg
And Ricardo I just put my simple and old Canon on "Macro" position
Excellent! Thanks Andy.
What is the main difference between the CD63 and the CD67 (It is to many pages in this thread to read it all to find out ) and why it is a good thing to bypass the discrete output stage? Seldom seen in any audio device and probably the the best thing in the whole CD player.
Miklos
What is the main difference between the CD63 and the CD67 (It is to many pages in this thread to read it all to find out ) and why it is a good thing to bypass the discrete output stage? Seldom seen in any audio device and probably the the best thing in the whole CD player.
Miklos
Hi Miklos,
The main differences are:
CD63
slightly smaller case
uses unregulated +/-10V for drivers
uses separate servo and decoder chips
uses discrete HF amp
CD67
slightly bigger case
uses regulated +5V for drivers
uses single chip for servo and decoder
uses TDA1302 HF amp
The DAC and analog audio section are nearly identical.
The discrete HF amp of the CD63 can be tweaked, and good gains have been reported with clocking the servo chip separately. The CD67 has a better and lay-out and less complex PSU; the drivers are fed with a single 5V. It allows bigger caps, especially the ones for the analog +/-12V.
The HDAM circuit is nothing more than a discrete opamp circuit, connected as a buffer. Once you insert a decent opamp in the player, the extra components and huge amount of negative feedback have a negative effect on the sound. So, in the end, it's better to bypass it. The circuit itself is not bad, but simply redundant. However, it's better to get rid of the opamps entirely. They can be replaced by a HDAM circuit (like in the SA8400 or SA11) or a passive filter with discrete output stage.
Regards,
Ray
The main differences are:
CD63
slightly smaller case
uses unregulated +/-10V for drivers
uses separate servo and decoder chips
uses discrete HF amp
CD67
slightly bigger case
uses regulated +5V for drivers
uses single chip for servo and decoder
uses TDA1302 HF amp
The DAC and analog audio section are nearly identical.
The discrete HF amp of the CD63 can be tweaked, and good gains have been reported with clocking the servo chip separately. The CD67 has a better and lay-out and less complex PSU; the drivers are fed with a single 5V. It allows bigger caps, especially the ones for the analog +/-12V.
The HDAM circuit is nothing more than a discrete opamp circuit, connected as a buffer. Once you insert a decent opamp in the player, the extra components and huge amount of negative feedback have a negative effect on the sound. So, in the end, it's better to bypass it. The circuit itself is not bad, but simply redundant. However, it's better to get rid of the opamps entirely. They can be replaced by a HDAM circuit (like in the SA8400 or SA11) or a passive filter with discrete output stage.
Regards,
Ray