Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

6h5c said:


I had to move some pots and plants in the living room, 'cause I noticed a slight diffraction of the highs on the right hand side of the stereo image after this mod :D

Ray.

And you thought your ears are getting use to the sound.

Or is it the plants growing and getting bigger:clown:

allan

time align the room?????????????????

minus on any WAF


no need to ask:D

thanx ray
 
Hi,
...im new to the forum and to the thread. A few days ago i got my CD67SE after my rega planet died...
I startet off with the power-supply, changed some caps there (i will use Black Gates only...:D )
I came across a few parts which weren't mentioned (i think...) in your posts and i'm wondering what to do with them:
These are C801/802, C811/812; i'd like t replace them but don't now their values...
Output: R661, R662 what about them...? Should i rip out C659/C660 or replace them?

Diodes: What about DN 01-04 and D811-12, do you think i should go for HFA08TB60 or better Schottky 11DQ6..?

Any comments are appreciated!

Mickie
 
Hi Mickie!

Always a sad time, the death of a piece of equipment, but...
you're lucky, because i'm the CD67 master :D

C801/802/811/812 were never mentioned because you don't have to replace them. These are some standard ceramics that suppress noise on the AC power line. If you want to put in something more fancy I suppose you could swap them for a decent 47n X7R ceramic, they are probably Z5U now.

R661/662 are there to prevent a floating output, and should not be removed. If you really want to tweak them you could put in a metal film, but there's not much sense in making it a 1%....
C659/660 can be removed.

As for the diodes, the FRED's are very popular. But they still have a reverse recovery effect, although it is controlled and less. Fortunately, for low-voltage applications like this, you can (and should) use schottky diodes because they have no reverse recovery problems. You can use 11DQ06...10 or something similar, like SB160 or MBR1100, to replace the rectifier diodes.
If you want, you can read some more info on this matter here.

Regards,

Ray.
 
Hi Brent,

Cool avatar :D.

They are not bad diodes of course, but I think it is also a marketing strategy, like the fancy HDAM circuit in our players. FRED's are hot, Schottky's are not :sad:.

But if I read about the differences between the two, I'd say for low-voltage go for schottky, since they don't have reverse recovery. And if it ain't there, you don't have to control it either :bigeyes:.

Regards,

Ray.
 
rowemeister said:
I have just downloaded the CD17 MKIII service manual to compare circuit's with our machines.

It as two mono DACs (shielded) straight to the HDAM. No OP AMPs used at all.

The HDAM is pretty much the same as ours and the muting is the same with a few resistors having lower values.

That would be an interesting circuit to look at:D


Blackgate's?
I thought the original company had stopped manufacture?

I have found some places that get them, but then order to find if the
one's you want available and then the price:bigeyes:

Don't they take a long time to break in?

If so, you could think anything could improve the sound by the time
they "break in"

allan
 
awpagan said:


That would be an interesting circuit to look at:D


Blackgate's?
I thought the original company had stopped manufacture?

I have found some places that get them, but then order to find if the
one's you want available and then the price:bigeyes:

Don't they take a long time to break in?

If so, you could think anything could improve the sound by the time
they "break in"

allan

When I first changed my caps around regs and dac to blackgate the first thing I noticed was a better more natural sounding bass with a slightly better/smoother mid range.

And I know running the machine more and more can only improve things :D and then my laser will fail :clown:
 
Here is a the sch of the DACs in the CD17 mkIII.
These output audio straight to the HDAM

DAC PCM1716
 

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Having looked at the diagram for this player I know my player is much better, the psu are better than standard 63/67 but not amazing.
The circuit layout is much more linear (better routing of tracks) and there for better.

Also the +/- 12v regs for HDAM are situated right next to the HDAM.
Just like my +/- 12v regs for op amps :D

Pic of KI model shown
 

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