Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Re: Super Raygulator values

magilla said:
I have the acoustica.org regulator material but don't get how the calculations are made for the super raygulators. The super raygulators have a pair of zeners followed by a diode on the adj leg.

So can someone please tell me the values or resistor required for 5, 12 and 15v operation or the formular for working it out?

This question has been asked before, wouldn't it be easy for a person that is using these to post a table of common values.

The value of the resistor between output and adjust is 120 Ohm, the added values of the zener and diodes must be equal to Output voltage minus 1.2 Volt.
 
The value of the resistor between output and adjust is 120 Ohm, the added values of the zener and diodes must be equal to Output voltage minus 1.2 Volt.

So is that the voltage value of the Zeners, with the fact that there is are two not one zener not changing things?

Can channing the resistor value achieve more precise calibration of the output voltage, the zeners just come in 1V steps, who wants to be .2 out?
 
So can someone please tell me the values or resistor required for 5, 12 and 15v operation or the formular for working it out?

As previously stated use 120 ohms, this will provide enough current for the zener to operate (1.25v / 120R gives 10mA). The LM317 regulates to ensure there is 1.25volts between the output and adj pins so if we assume the voltage drop across the 1N4148 is 0.7 volts then the zener will need to be roughly 2 volts (1.25+0.7) below the output voltage.

For 5V output use a 3V zener, or led(s)

12V, use a 10V zener

15V, use a 13V zener

etc.

So is that the voltage value of the Zeners, with the fact that there is are two not one zener not changing things?

The zeners are connected in parallel so the volt drop across each is the same as the drop would be across one.

Can channing the resistor value achieve more precise calibration of the output voltage, the zeners just come in 1V steps, who wants to be .2 out?

No, it doesn't work the same way as the normal divider which sets the output voltage. The resistor is there to provide a current through the zener. You can get 1V steps with zeners as explained above since Vadj + the 1N4148 = approx 2V. Why do you need to adjust +/-0.2v anyway ?
 
SimontY said:


Is there anything much better? And anything that's pin-compatible?

I don't think anyone's done this. It would probably make more sense to DIY a whole DAC.

Simon


Just looking for some options whether it is more economical to change the DAC & clock or get an external DAC. The price of a decent clock module is already close to 40~50% the price of an external DAC. By the way, what do you think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com.my/16-9344MHz-L...ageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m122
 
fossil2k said:
No offence, but sometimes I'm thinking..everyone were praising so much about the CD63/67, etc but yet there is so much mods need to be done to improve it.

That's an interesting observation. You'll never find me praising the standard player (or variations of) at its original price-point. I found my standard CD63KI to be harsh, thumpy, with average detail levels and lacking all subtlety.

The player is a good one to modify due to having a popular crystal frequency, good enough chassis, an abundance of reasonably priced 2nd hand units and massive support and upgrade documentation here and elsewhere. It's the Ford Mondeo of CD players (that's the car I own, and upgrade lol).

Lastly, the sound attainable through extensive upgrading is, with the exception of the slightly blunt delivery*, stunning.

Simon

* Actually one player doesn't seem to have this - Brent's. I'm not sure what I have yet to do to completely eradicate the slightly brute-force approach the player sometimes takes to making music.

Contrast this to an Arcam CD72 or SACD played on a cheap Pioneer, where the sound is more delicate and graceful (but arguably lacking bass).
 
fossil2k said:



Just looking for some options whether it is more economical to change the DAC & clock or get an external DAC. The price of a decent clock module is already close to 40~50% the price of an external DAC. By the way, what do you think of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com.my/16-9344MHz-L...ageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m122

Almost any aftermarket clock (with it's own regulator and, preferably, own supply, is better than the rubbish clock provided by Marantz !!

If you opt for the external DAC route, the cheap ones are no better and require further mods. as well !!! (to the DAC and also to the CD-P)

Stick with the existing CD63/67 and follow the mods here.....



Andy
 
poynton said:


Almost

If you opt for the external DAC route, the cheap ones are no better and require further mods. as well !!! (to the DAC and also to the CD-P)

Stick with the existing CD63/67 and follow the mods here.....

Andy

Exactly right. Most external dacs iv'e seen or worked on are pretty poo, only slightly better than the stock marantz dac setup and that was due to slightly better op amps and/or capacitor choice.

Brent
 
JonHarrison said:


Andre, in the RayReg schematic I have the 2 zeners are connected in parallel with a 1N4148 in series with the pair. Do you have a different circuit ?

I can't find the schematic, I remember a circuit with a few series diodes / zener on the adj. pin to get to the desired voltage. I can't see the reason for parallel zeners. You can use LED's also.