Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Vibration Isolation

he first problem of cdplayes are vibrations. The sound begin a lot better if one use rubber o silicon bands in appropriate way.
See
these pictures these pictures
These are experiment with quite very very good results.
But, if you take a look (sorry) to Mauro Penasa's tweak, from technical point of you, you could undestand that many tweaks (no all) are totally unnecessary.
Try to isolating sources a 1HZ fs. Try to clean pwm noise only. Use some choke and ferrites, some good, not so great capacitors. Be easy.
 
Re: Vibration Isolation

riccardo said:
he first problem of cdplayes are vibrations. The sound begin a lot better if one use rubber o silicon bands in appropriate way.
...
Try to isolating sources a 1HZ fs.

I've always enjoyed the improvements afforded by wooden cones, which typically amount to a tauter, more tuneful bass, better dynamics and overall a sense of clarity.

That's not to say I'm too arrogant to accept a different approach. I will try your tweak one day. I was recently VERY impressed at the noise reduction gained by mounting my computer's hard disk in "free space" using bungee ropes.

Simon
 
Re: Vibration Isolation

riccardo said:
Here some pictures TOO

:bigeyes:

Just look at that cd player! It looks like a very modest model, but I'm curious about the potential gains in that mounting method.

I expect that room will sound somewhat dull, as he's using lots of absorption where there ought to be at least some diffusion.

...having said that, just check out the cardboard diffuser towers!

Thanks for showing us.

Simon
 
Excellent stuff. That cd is dvd based by the looks of things.

In terms of LP v CD the debate can go on forever. What I will say is a modest turntable will outperform a decent cd player.

With regards to my own cd player which you know has had the odd mod or two done, well it's up there with good turntables BUT only on my very best cds that have no or very minor compression , are dynamic and of course well recorded to start with.

Cds like 'eric clapton unplugged' and 'jazz at the porn shop' in XRCD are superb, where something like Amy Winehouse just went in the bin as it was so distorted, bet its really nice on vinyl.

Brent
 
Suspended CD Mechanism

Just a thought.......

If suspending the CD Player from bungees makes a difference, what about modding the actual mech inside the cdp?

One of the players I have, a hi-end Kenwood DP-1100SG , has the mech suspended on several "rubber bands".

Suggestion ....

Cut off the mounting points (3) from the cdp and replace with, for example, foam damped springs, as on older Philips models, plain sponge foam, rubber springs similar to those on the CDM4 ?


anyone...?

Andy
 
Inspired by the hard disk mounting, the guy with the wooden chassis rebuild on here and various comments combined with a desire to create something that stands out (for the right reasons for a change) I'm contemplating a rebuild into a better chassis. :smash:

This will feature some kind of esoteric, DIY-only suspension mechanism and better power transformer isolation. It will of course have room for more power supplies than the standard quite full box. :cool:

Watch this space (for the big BANG) :hot:

Simon
 
sorry.
Read this again:
http://www.e-basteln.de/index_m.htm
and about compression: in several case, most, it depends from amplifier, pre too, and so on.
The best results of Mauro's mod on 63 is the revelation of a natural sound, recorded in cdp.No compression more from source.
If one is able to suspend (or only player) system at 1 hz (only ONE HERTZ) Fs, could hear so many things thats could be very amazed.
It's possible an improovment of damping on chip, caps, and chassis with lead sheet, 1,8mm thick.
Later i try to post some pictures abount different isolation ways that i have experienced, with metallic spring, or silicon bands (this i a best way) . The spring (all is a spring) must have a 1 hz/ 2 hz FS, for correct isolation. A vertical or horizontal oscillation per second
 
I fully agree but it's a shame we go to these lengths and it is all let down by the disc.

My own system sits on a custom oak rack with Russ Andrews torlyte platforms + loads of bitumen on the chassis (partly contributing to the 10Kg weight).

Chassis and component resonance is a bad thing.

edit: Cd players and similar sources have a 2v p-p output and most amps have an approx input sensitivity of 150mV. This causes overload on the amps input (this is why 9 Oclock on the volume is loud). Fitting attenuation to the input of the amp stops this overload and allows a much more natural and dynamic sound (like LP), also an other benefit that comes from this is the volume will be nearer the 12 Oclock position for the same given volume so you have more fine adjustment plus the stereo image is much better as the volume pot is much better away from its start position.

Brent
 
rowemeister said:
A strong signal to the amp is good and then at the amps inputs the attenution is needed. If you attenuate at the cdp end you will get a loss of bass information.
The CD63/67 has 2V output and most amps have an input sensitivity of 150-300mV. As you can see there is a big difference.

I use a Russ Andrews attenuated lead on mine -11db, I have also tried the Golden Jacks atts at -10db and -14db. Both working perfectly well.
The attenuation removes the harsh edge to the music.

For -11db you need 10K inline res and a 6.8K res after the 10K to gnd. Use 0.1%tol res if you can. If not 1% will be ok.

Brent

Sorry O/T but.........

Just found this. Would the 6.8k res to ground apply if both were fitted inside the amp? Also on the same page Simon mentioned using a higher resistance pot - I am about to fit a 50k Alps Blue, so should I also attenuate as well?