Luke said:
Yep - that's what I did it on.
There are three jumpers just south of the DAC which carry the data lines, so I didn't even take the board out, just soldered to the top of these.
U146 - WCLK ---> WS (pin 2 on TDA1543)
U147 - SCLK ---> BCK (pin 1)
U148 - DATA ---> DATA (pin 3)
Power from U267 (GND) and U268 (+11V).
I bought some 627's (on BD adaptor) off a fellow member. I think they are ok even though I plugged them in backwards for 1 min.
Anyway I like the LM4562 better in my 67'. I would be happy to trade them for a set (2) of the Wima 1.0uF 63- EO. Malefoda kindly gave me a pair but the leads are too short for the application and I've pestered him enough! Sorry this is off topic...sort of. You got nothing to lose! Back on topic, the 4562 take forever to break in but they are getting better all the time. I'm at the 75hr mark and they are sounding more relaxed and extended.
Anyway I like the LM4562 better in my 67'. I would be happy to trade them for a set (2) of the Wima 1.0uF 63- EO. Malefoda kindly gave me a pair but the leads are too short for the application and I've pestered him enough! Sorry this is off topic...sort of. You got nothing to lose! Back on topic, the 4562 take forever to break in but they are getting better all the time. I'm at the 75hr mark and they are sounding more relaxed and extended.
Luke said:
If you're doing a 63, refer to the diyparadise site not my instructions.
O/P is a current output so just a resistor to ground and the output voltage is developed across it. Has DC riding on it so output cap is needed too. Should probably put a small cap parallel to o/p to fillter some ultrasonics but I didn't.
You only need inductors if you want to make a parallel resonant circuit to boost HF to counteract the slight non-OS rolloff.
If you google around on TDA1543 non oversampling etc. you'll see plenty of examples and advice on makes of output cap, I/V resistor etc.
Here's Thorsten Loesch (in disguise) on how to calculate values.
I hope nobody takes this the wrong way - but I really can't understand the thinking behind the idea of putting a TDA1543 (or any other DAC) into one of these CD players.
I'm not saying that the CD player is a bad choice or that there is anything wrong with the chosen alternate DACs. It is just that the best part of a CD43/53/63/67 is the SM5872 DAC. Disconnecting this DAC just leaves you with a CDM12 in a fairly standard case.
Sure - you can easily access the non OS I2S coming from the decoder - but you can do this on many other CD players that are probably more suitable to start with. There are many CD players out there with similar or superior mechanisms that would benefit more from an upgrade to your favourite I2S non OS DAC. Some will even have such a DAC already inside and would only require a few mods to convert to non OS.
Why undo all of the nice stuff inside a relatively expensive CD63/67 - when you can start with a better and cheaper base for a non OS TDA project?
I'm not saying that the CD player is a bad choice or that there is anything wrong with the chosen alternate DACs. It is just that the best part of a CD43/53/63/67 is the SM5872 DAC. Disconnecting this DAC just leaves you with a CDM12 in a fairly standard case.
Sure - you can easily access the non OS I2S coming from the decoder - but you can do this on many other CD players that are probably more suitable to start with. There are many CD players out there with similar or superior mechanisms that would benefit more from an upgrade to your favourite I2S non OS DAC. Some will even have such a DAC already inside and would only require a few mods to convert to non OS.
Why undo all of the nice stuff inside a relatively expensive CD63/67 - when you can start with a better and cheaper base for a non OS TDA project?
Agree with all of that!
But:
a) I already have a CD-67SE, with numerous regs and a low-jitter clock, so the I2S signal should be pretty good,
b) I've no intention of disconnecting the NPC DAC anyway,
c) For about two quid in parts it's a fun experiment and an easy way to see what this non-OS guff is all about and whether one likes it or not.
d) If I decide I like both DACs for different types of music, I can leave them both in the box.
Now do you understand?
The TDA1543 is apparently about the only one that you can get away with using just passive I/V.
Many players that use this DAC or similar have the CPU instruct the decoder to do the oversampling.
(The NPC SM5872BS has the digital filter inside it.)
But:
a) I already have a CD-67SE, with numerous regs and a low-jitter clock, so the I2S signal should be pretty good,
b) I've no intention of disconnecting the NPC DAC anyway,
c) For about two quid in parts it's a fun experiment and an easy way to see what this non-OS guff is all about and whether one likes it or not.
d) If I decide I like both DACs for different types of music, I can leave them both in the box.
Now do you understand?
The TDA1543 is apparently about the only one that you can get away with using just passive I/V.
Many players that use this DAC or similar have the CPU instruct the decoder to do the oversampling.
(The NPC SM5872BS has the digital filter inside it.)
Cool experiment Glenn, I look forward to hearing which you think is ultimately better.
Do you think the benefit of this non-OS route is the low part count, cost and simplicity? I'd be amazed if it could match the full CD63 when taken to the limits (Brent's).
Simon
ps - 5 days in the Lake District without rain - a miracle?
Do you think the benefit of this non-OS route is the low part count, cost and simplicity? I'd be amazed if it could match the full CD63 when taken to the limits (Brent's).
Simon
ps - 5 days in the Lake District without rain - a miracle?
SimontY said:
Don't forget that most of these mods improve the I2S feeding the original DAC, so any DAC would benefit.
It certainly does sound very good.
My limited understanding is that oversampling is there to shift the ultrasonic garbage to a much higher frequency so more gentle analogue filtering can be applied. The downside is that these digital filters introduce distortions of there own.
It comes down to whether you think the cure is worse than the disease or not. Some do, some don't.
Remember, when listening to the NPC DAC, I'm also listening to a 4-pole low-pass filter with lots of feedback, and its attendant power supplies, as opposed to one resistor and one cap.
This is all just an experiment and I'm in no way stating that one is better than the other, and I haven't decided yet anyway.
Indeed - I now have a better understanding of the thinking behind the plan - and as an experiment it does make sense.
However, for a fully fledged permanent TDA1543 project, it would make more sense to get hold of a really cheap Philips CD380/480/482 or CD610Mk1 (with SAA7210/7310, SAA7220 and TDA1543 - so no combined decoder/filter).
I merely wanted to illustrate to those who might be looking at this as a good way to get a non OS TDA1543 machine by "converting" their CD63/67......that there are better ways to do that.
What you are doing is very interesting and good luck with it.
However, for a fully fledged permanent TDA1543 project, it would make more sense to get hold of a really cheap Philips CD380/480/482 or CD610Mk1 (with SAA7210/7310, SAA7220 and TDA1543 - so no combined decoder/filter).
I merely wanted to illustrate to those who might be looking at this as a good way to get a non OS TDA1543 machine by "converting" their CD63/67......that there are better ways to do that.
What you are doing is very interesting and good luck with it.
Flea output
Hi there,
I've in hand my XO from Tentlabs.
Is it safer to fit the socket? I've no other purpose for my XO but the Flea, if no danger for the XO I'll fit it direct on PCB.
How about wiring the clock? Flea's manual (Martin please
) says we should use a resistor. What's the deal with my CD53? Just remove the 2 cermaic caps and fit it like this or need a R?
For the story I've brought my CDP to face an expensive player and then... one channel refused to work! Back home... sings like a bird!
Hi there,
I've in hand my XO from Tentlabs.
Is it safer to fit the socket? I've no other purpose for my XO but the Flea, if no danger for the XO I'll fit it direct on PCB.
How about wiring the clock? Flea's manual (Martin please
) says we should use a resistor. What's the deal with my CD53? Just remove the 2 cermaic caps and fit it like this or need a R?For the story I've brought my CDP to face an expensive player and then... one channel refused to work! Back home... sings like a bird!
Re: Flea output
Solder, but do a quick solder!
I have a (by memory) 39R SMD (on the pads on the Flea) in series with clock out.
Yes, remove RD02, CD02, CD03 and XD01. Inject the clock from the Flea on pin28 at the DAC.
Sorry, crappy picture, but it gives you an idea. It's from the past, before I did solder the XO onto the board.
Malefoda said:Hi there,
I've in hand my XO from Tentlabs.
Is it safer to fit the socket? I've no other purpose for my XO but the Flea, if no danger for the XO I'll fit it direct on PCB.
How about wiring the clock? Flea's manual (Martin please
For the story I've brought my CDP to face an expensive player and then... one channel refused to work! Back home... sings like a bird!
Solder, but do a quick solder!
I have a (by memory) 39R SMD (on the pads on the Flea) in series with clock out.
Yes, remove RD02, CD02, CD03 and XD01. Inject the clock from the Flea on pin28 at the DAC.
Sorry, crappy picture, but it gives you an idea. It's from the past, before I did solder the XO onto the board.
Attachments
Malefoda said:
No, pin 2. Pin 1 should have nothing connected to it after the external clock is added.
Use the two holes vacated by CD03.
Clock input to the hole nearest to the DAC, ground to the hole nearest to the side of the board.
Alternatively, you could connect to the underside of the board. Remove U196 and connect to the DAC side of this and the ground of CD05.
I chopped up a turned-pin op-amp socket and put pins in the holes and pins on the end of the wires. Easy to disassemble the unit if your mounting the Flea on the side of the case. If you're fixing it to the main board then not a problem anyway.
If you're powering the Flea from the main transformer, make sure the clock ground is the only ground. I.e, there must be three wires - supply in, clock out and ground.
Attachments
seperate transformer for analogue parts
hi ive been following this thread for a while now and have just decided to start some mods, my question is that i have an old and knackered cd67 with a working transformer, could i mount this on the back panel and use the taps to supply the analogue part and maybe a new clock of my cd63se leaving the original transformer to supply the digital parts? any help would be grateful.
cheers chris
hi ive been following this thread for a while now and have just decided to start some mods, my question is that i have an old and knackered cd67 with a working transformer, could i mount this on the back panel and use the taps to supply the analogue part and maybe a new clock of my cd63se leaving the original transformer to supply the digital parts? any help would be grateful.
cheers chris