I can't start building yet. Me and my dad went to the local wood-store (right word?) and asked if they has birchplywood. They didn't have but the guy there could check if he could order some for me. Gonna go back there on tuesday i think and see.
And right now i am low on money. Gonna spend my remaining cash on an Intel X-25 80gb SSD which costs pretty much actually. I do get around 90$ a month but gotta spend that on clothes and money for my phone aswell. But should be able to work for some money aswell.
Planning to build this on the summer. Still too cold and wet to be outdoors.
And right now i am low on money. Gonna spend my remaining cash on an Intel X-25 80gb SSD which costs pretty much actually. I do get around 90$ a month but gotta spend that on clothes and money for my phone aswell. But should be able to work for some money aswell.
Planning to build this on the summer. Still too cold and wet to be outdoors.
#1 - ask the lumberyard about the measures of a standard sheet. They have to buy by whole sheets and you´ll be charged for what they throw away.
#2 - get a free CAD program and puzzle all the pieces on one sheet. Always allow 3cm from the edges and 2cm between parts. The man at the saw will get by with less, but you show you don´t want to cause him headache.
#2 - get a free CAD program and puzzle all the pieces on one sheet. Always allow 3cm from the edges and 2cm between parts. The man at the saw will get by with less, but you show you don´t want to cause him headache.
just catching up - a lot of traffic since yesterday afternoon
Scott, et al: - my apologies for confusing the issue by bringing up the question of BSC/filters
in my half-hearted defence, I'll remind y'all that there are folks who maintain that all FR drivers need BSC - but maybe they haven't heard the latest Mark Audio drivers, or some of the design types discussed herein.
personally, I've yet to build a pair of speakers in the past 5yrs that included any such "correction", and don't think I've missed anything.
Pit / Niklas: FWIW, when drawing cut plans for material to be cut on saw (as opposed to CNC nested routing), I normally allow 1cm (10mm) margin for first trim cut from factory edges, and .5cm (5mm) for blade kerf (i.e. total of 1.5cm to finished edge on first cut) . I work in a commercial millwork shop, and the large panel and sliding table saw blades are 5mm, all others 3mm. OTOH, for parts to be both sized and machined on the CNC router for custom patterns such as rebated driver openings or dadoes for something like the Frugel-horn, the tool bit allowance is 1.27 cm (1/2" for the imperialists
)
Niklas: presumably your geographic location will allow you access to high quality grade multi-layer plywood ( over here generically referred to as "Baltic" or "Finnish" Birch).
Don't be disturbed if the cost amounts to more than the drivers - compared to lower grade (i.e. lower ply count) plywood or MDF/particle board, and considering the labor time involved on some of the more elaborate designs, the sonic results are well worth the difference. I long ago stopped using MDF for anything except base plates and test jigs.
and take your time deciding - as I'm sure I said earlier, by the time you're ready to build, there may well be even more choices on the table
Scott, et al: - my apologies for confusing the issue by bringing up the question of BSC/filters
in my half-hearted defence, I'll remind y'all that there are folks who maintain that all FR drivers need BSC - but maybe they haven't heard the latest Mark Audio drivers, or some of the design types discussed herein.
personally, I've yet to build a pair of speakers in the past 5yrs that included any such "correction", and don't think I've missed anything.
Pit / Niklas: FWIW, when drawing cut plans for material to be cut on saw (as opposed to CNC nested routing), I normally allow 1cm (10mm) margin for first trim cut from factory edges, and .5cm (5mm) for blade kerf (i.e. total of 1.5cm to finished edge on first cut) . I work in a commercial millwork shop, and the large panel and sliding table saw blades are 5mm, all others 3mm. OTOH, for parts to be both sized and machined on the CNC router for custom patterns such as rebated driver openings or dadoes for something like the Frugel-horn, the tool bit allowance is 1.27 cm (1/2" for the imperialists
) Niklas: presumably your geographic location will allow you access to high quality grade multi-layer plywood ( over here generically referred to as "Baltic" or "Finnish" Birch).
Don't be disturbed if the cost amounts to more than the drivers - compared to lower grade (i.e. lower ply count) plywood or MDF/particle board, and considering the labor time involved on some of the more elaborate designs, the sonic results are well worth the difference. I long ago stopped using MDF for anything except base plates and test jigs.
and take your time deciding - as I'm sure I said earlier, by the time you're ready to build, there may well be even more choices on the table
I have been doing a cutsheet for quite a while now.
I have 3cm on the outside edges except for one side with 2.28cm. It is 2cm between the parts.
So Chris, you mean 1.5cm on outside edges and 0.5cm between every bit?
In that case i might have to redo something... Or.. wont fit 2 lotus speakers on one board anyways.
And btw, how long does the deflector-bit have to be on the Lotus?
I have 3cm on the outside edges except for one side with 2.28cm. It is 2cm between the parts.
So Chris, you mean 1.5cm on outside edges and 0.5cm between every bit?
In that case i might have to redo something... Or.. wont fit 2 lotus speakers on one board anyways.
And btw, how long does the deflector-bit have to be on the Lotus?
Dave had prepared a lot of documentation on this series, but not a cut plan sheet. Let me draft one out and I can e-mail you a PDF. Cut plan only needs to be 2D, and I've done a few of those over the years.
well, it looks like you're ahead of me - if you're willing to splice one of the back panels behind the triangular deflector, and allowing for 5mm kerf /10mm first trim cuts it'd be a close fit.
edit: FWIW, I've adjusted my version of the drawing for the nominal 18mm BB ply thick available here, which changes outside overall dimensions slightly (i.e. 4mm height and 2mm depth), but maintains the critical internal dimensions.
edit#2:
so far you're only dealing with rough cut planning - but give some consideration to ballast or stepped deflectors (MDF is fine for this) & mounting plate on the lower void for stability for any of these tall /skinny designs.
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with very careful cutting, I think so - I'll finish drafting a cut plan and try to get it posted shortly
IKEA | Knivar & skärbrädor | Skärbrädor | DACKE | Skärbräda
Probably best gotten from a yard/garage/boot sale, a thrift shop, or a swap-n-shop.Maybe neighbors (or your mom) have some old ones they'd be happy to donate.
yes
dave