Well. What mods should be done with the Yaqin? What does it cost, what is improved and what must i do?
I will talk to the teacher at school who's doing the electronics. I know they do got tools enough, i just need to get permission to use them. Either with his help or any of my mates learning about electronics and such.
I'm not that afraid of DIY, but i want something that works. And since i've never done anything similar before i'm completely new to this :S
I will talk to the teacher at school who's doing the electronics. I know they do got tools enough, i just need to get permission to use them. Either with his help or any of my mates learning about electronics and such.
I'm not that afraid of DIY, but i want something that works. And since i've never done anything similar before i'm completely new to this :S
voltages.
Okay. I know this old man located around 150km from where i live who has a Yaqin MC-100B powering a pair of quite unknown speakers. I will ask a couple of questions to him, but is there anything very important i have to ask him?
Btw, the MC-100B has 32WPC in triode mode and 65 in the other mode. That should be enough even if i want to get new speakers that requires a little more power.
I'm a little worried though, since it appears to have no outputs. So i will have to use it as a power amplifier, not as an integrated amplifier. I was planning to go from the Behringer to the tube amp, then from tube amp to the Reckhorn S-1, then from the S-1 back to the tube amp and to the sub amp. But since the MC-100B appears to have no outputs it makes it impossible to do it that way. I will need some sort of pre-amplifier. I've looked at the Emotiva XDA-1 which is both a high-quality DAC and a pre-amp at a good price. And there's no remote control for the tube amp which would be annoying since the amp is around 3m from where i sit.
And if you look at the backside of the MC-100B you see there's a speaker output called "ground". What's that good for?
Btw, the MC-100B has 32WPC in triode mode and 65 in the other mode. That should be enough even if i want to get new speakers that requires a little more power.
I'm a little worried though, since it appears to have no outputs. So i will have to use it as a power amplifier, not as an integrated amplifier. I was planning to go from the Behringer to the tube amp, then from tube amp to the Reckhorn S-1, then from the S-1 back to the tube amp and to the sub amp. But since the MC-100B appears to have no outputs it makes it impossible to do it that way. I will need some sort of pre-amplifier. I've looked at the Emotiva XDA-1 which is both a high-quality DAC and a pre-amp at a good price. And there's no remote control for the tube amp which would be annoying since the amp is around 3m from where i sit.
And if you look at the backside of the MC-100B you see there's a speaker output called "ground". What's that good for?
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"ground" is the "-" and the 4 ohms and 8 ohms outputs are the "+".
The problem is, tube amps don´t love every box. If your speaker has an impedance that goes up and down loke a rollercoaster, you´ll be in trouble.
And PLEASE forget about using all that electronic zoo. CD (or pooter) into preamp (or the Behringer) into power amp and into the boxes. Done.
The problem is, tube amps don´t love every box. If your speaker has an impedance that goes up and down loke a rollercoaster, you´ll be in trouble.
And PLEASE forget about using all that electronic zoo. CD (or pooter) into preamp (or the Behringer) into power amp and into the boxes. Done.
Yes, but if changing it will probably be something like Fostex FE206 or something similar.
Pooter - preamp/dac/integrated amp with pre out - Reckhorn XO = amp for satelites and subs
That's how i think. Can the behringer be used as a preamp?
Pit raises several excellent points - (sorry I wasn't initially sure where you were coming from with the "shaddup", etc. - now I suspect you're just trying to "keep it under the radar" )
After "a while" in this lifestyle, I've come to the personal conclusion that the fewer individual components/software processes in a system, the better - while you'll more than likely refine the quality of individual components as you progress towards your own audio satori, try first to broaden your experience at other folks expense - i.e. invest in the shoe leather or travel costs to listen to as wide a variety of gear and systems as you can.
And listen to as much live music as possible - even types that you might not think would appeal to you.
As to the suitability of the Yaqin to your system - I'd opine that 32W in triode mode would be more than adequate, but keep in mind that while the difference between 32 and 64 is only approx 3dB more power, there are other substantial differences in the sonic characteristics between triode and pentode or U/L that may or not suit your system needs/tastes.
After "a while" in this lifestyle, I've come to the personal conclusion that the fewer individual components/software processes in a system, the better - while you'll more than likely refine the quality of individual components as you progress towards your own audio satori, try first to broaden your experience at other folks expense - i.e. invest in the shoe leather or travel costs to listen to as wide a variety of gear and systems as you can.
And listen to as much live music as possible - even types that you might not think would appeal to you.
As to the suitability of the Yaqin to your system - I'd opine that 32W in triode mode would be more than adequate, but keep in mind that while the difference between 32 and 64 is only approx 3dB more power, there are other substantial differences in the sonic characteristics between triode and pentode or U/L that may or not suit your system needs/tastes.
Yes, i actually visited Arkenmässan in Gothenburg this autumn and it was extremely fun, but mostly extreme high-end stuff.
I try to but sadly enough there's not much going around here
Yes i know. But since the EL70 can't handle more than 20W i wont use more than 20W at the moment. But if i change speakers to some that can handle more power it feels good having a little extra. I don't know how much peak power the EL70 can handle but i guess it's a little more than 20W.
The only differences i've heard between amplifiers is my HK vs a cheaper Proson receiver. The Proson had more punchy bass, nothing else was different i think. I think my HK sounds a little "dead" and flat. It felt the same with my old speakers so i suppose it's the amp. And i've heard tube amps should sound "live" so i guess that might fit me well. 100% flat response isn't really my goal, i want it to sound good and fun.
What's the differences between triode, pentode and U/L?
Chris, hands across the ocean about listening to live music.
Any street musician will show you that an acoustic guitar has more "bite" than any $89.99 5.1 superduper plastic crap.
And as to the "less is more" philosopy...I´m going home. From digisquash to silver bromide photography. The really pretty girls look even nicer in b/w.
Any street musician will show you that an acoustic guitar has more "bite" than any $89.99 5.1 superduper plastic crap.
And as to the "less is more" philosopy...I´m going home. From digisquash to silver bromide photography. The really pretty girls look even nicer in b/w.
one thing to try to get over is this concept of power "requirements" vs "handling"
you can easily damage a pair of speakers (tweeters particularly) with less than their rated "maximum"
Sound good and fun - you're headed in the right direction for sure
Clearly most of my listening experience over the past 10yrs has been to reasonably efficient (>90dB/1w etc) full range speakers, or those with helper tweeters crossed over only for the last octave or so. These types of speakers & enclosures tend to be far more sensitive to degrees of synergy with the amplifier. To be honest, I've not been able to directly compare the difference between pentode and U/L mode in an amplifier capable of both, but can comment on experience with triode vs either in several designs.
For me triode (whether "true" DHTsuch as 45 / 2A3 / 300B or triode connected pentodes such as 6BQ5/EL84 or 6CA7/EL34) is more open, flowing and relaxed than either of the other 2 modes. While both P & U/L can deliver substantially more power, less distortion & dynamic punch from popular tubes such as the EL84 / 34, for me they've been far less intimate, emotive and 3-dimensional than when in triode operation. Then of course to further confuse things there's the question of SE vs P/P vs fully differential etc., etc.
Chris, hands across the ocean about listening to live music.
Any street musician will show you that an acoustic guitar has more "bite" than any $89.99 5.1 superduper plastic crap.
And as to the "less is more" philosopy...I´m going home. From digisquash to silver bromide photography. The really pretty girls look even nicer in b/w.
yeh, there's certainly something almost luminous about the gradations of shading available that can reveal surrealistic qualities of "landscape" contours / textures simply not possible with color
Ok, but i'm not totally sure how much power i need.
It sounds like a good idea to have the option to use triode mode but less power for fine jazz and classical/acoustic music and then pentode or U/L for speakers that need more power and for rock music and such?
About live music. Many of my friends play instruments like trombone, violin, piano, guitar, saxophone and such. Everytime i hear any instrument live i try to think of how it sounds, variations in sound between rooms and instruments and such.
Okay, i like to play loud. Some times just playing some jazz, sinking into the music just letting my mind go away. Sometimes with heavymetal music, playing loud and feel the "power" of the music.
How much power will i need?
It sounds like a good idea to have the option to use triode mode but less power for fine jazz and classical/acoustic music and then pentode or U/L for speakers that need more power and for rock music and such?
About live music. Many of my friends play instruments like trombone, violin, piano, guitar, saxophone and such. Everytime i hear any instrument live i try to think of how it sounds, variations in sound between rooms and instruments and such.
Okay, i like to play loud. Some times just playing some jazz, sinking into the music just letting my mind go away. Sometimes with heavymetal music, playing loud and feel the "power" of the music.
How much power will i need?
Are you sure?
I will see if i can bring up the ol' Hitachi that has this "watt-meter" which shows how much is used. With my Dynavoice Speakers i was up to 40-50W (the limit) when playing really really loud. It was mostly the bass which required lots of watts. With acoustic and bass-less music i could play loud enough with 5-10W.