To clarify what Dave was saying; the twist rate for each of the 4 colored pairs within the CAT5 cable are slightly different - so try to use equal lengths of the same colored pair.
Depending on the particular brand, the distinguishing differences between polarity (particularly some of those with teflon insulated) in each pair can be hard to read; but the convention is that one will be a solid color, and the other will be striped in that color.
If you were to carefully unravel all 4 pairs, you'd likely find very minor differences in length of each pair, which of course would vary depending on the overall length. Perhaps the same could be said of some machine "rope" laid or certainly DIY hand braided cabling.
The real question of course is just how audible such minor differences might be?
Bueller?
Depending on the particular brand, the distinguishing differences between polarity (particularly some of those with teflon insulated) in each pair can be hard to read; but the convention is that one will be a solid color, and the other will be striped in that color.
If you were to carefully unravel all 4 pairs, you'd likely find very minor differences in length of each pair, which of course would vary depending on the overall length. Perhaps the same could be said of some machine "rope" laid or certainly DIY hand braided cabling.
The real question of course is just how audible such minor differences might be?
Bueller?
well as you can see (starting here), we never miss an opportunity to enjoy (or congratulate) ourselves
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/club...ver-island-diyfest-2010-a-12.html#post2278948
re the wire, just mark each end of one strand per side with felt marker, masking tape or whatever, and call that positive
test for final polarity with a 1.5V penlight battery - with the marked conductor attached to battery's positive terminal, whichever connection causes both cones to move outwards is in (absolute) phase
Switched over to my Dynavoices to play some rock music at high volume and i tried some Audioslave the first i did just to compare. It sounded bloody awful! When i first hooked up my Mar-Kel70's i thought my M-65 were better but now they really outshine my M-65.
Still Mar-Kel70 wont do The Haunted at very high volumes, so my M-65 has to do that...
And i experience that the soundstage is a little bigger on the dynavoices. But i think it will be better when i get my Mar-Kel70's in ear-hight instead of on top of the M-65.
Still Mar-Kel70 wont do The Haunted at very high volumes, so my M-65 has to do that...
And i experience that the soundstage is a little bigger on the dynavoices. But i think it will be better when i get my Mar-Kel70's in ear-hight instead of on top of the M-65.
Are you able to run a high-pass on the Mar-Kels? (passive line level would be cheapest). That could aid quite a bit in the overall power handling, as well as improve midrange/dynamics.
I'm playing louder for every day.
When my parents are home the speakers ain't a problem. But when i'm home alone i can't play really as loud as i want but i can tell you it's quite loud anyways. Playing some tracks from Disturbed's new album at the moment quite loud. Only the Mar-Kel70 wont do much bass but luckily i have the sub.
When my parents are home the speakers ain't a problem. But when i'm home alone i can't play really as loud as i want but i can tell you it's quite loud anyways. Playing some tracks from Disturbed's new album at the moment quite loud. Only the Mar-Kel70 wont do much bass but luckily i have the sub.
Hmmm...no idea about firearms law in Sweden, but are you sure your neighbors won´t buy a shotgun? As to active Xover - find out if you can get something by Behringer. Design and quality control are German (jajaja, call me a nazi), but they are built in China (okokok, call me a slavedriver), so you get good quality for your kroners. Money doesn´t grow on trees, does it?
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Thomann are OK, but finding something on their website...the printed catalogue is even worse. Look for the Behringer "Ultra - Curve". Add their microphone and you have a box of magic tricks. Plug the mike in, the machine measures frequency response in your room and mirrors it into the DSP - two minutes and your system is linear.
Mind - Behringer is not Bruel&Kjaer, but then I´d prefer a Ferrari over my bicycle and would like to be married to a 17 year old Brigitte Bardot...oh well. And knowing you, my guess is you´ll push the subwoofer 10dB above linear anyway.
Mind - Behringer is not Bruel&Kjaer, but then I´d prefer a Ferrari over my bicycle and would like to be married to a 17 year old Brigitte Bardot...oh well. And knowing you, my guess is you´ll push the subwoofer 10dB above linear anyway.
Thomann are OK, but finding something on their website...the printed catalogue is even worse. Look for the Behringer "Ultra - Curve". Add their microphone and you have a box of magic tricks. Plug the mike in, the machine measures frequency response in your room and mirrors it into the DSP - two minutes and your system is linear.
Mind - Behringer is not Bruel&Kjaer, but then I´d prefer a Ferrari over my bicycle and would like to be married to a 17 year old Brigitte Bardot...oh well. And knowing you, my guess is you´ll push the subwoofer 10dB above linear anyway.
I don't really understand what u mean :S
I wont push the bass up for normal music listening. I think the basslvl is fine at the moment actually.
I found Behringer Ultracruve but there seem to be many versions of it and what mic do you mean?
And what will it cost? I don't feel for spending way too much at such things. And i will have to hide it somewhere because it look like ****.
wouldn't a system equalized with even a perfect calibrated mike and high resolution DSP generally be approximately "linear" over a very small window around the point at which the mike was positioned?
rather like a focused array - great imaging and soundstage dimension if you can keep your head in a vice - hey, how about a dentist's chair for listening
rather like a focused array - great imaging and soundstage dimension if you can keep your head in a vice - hey, how about a dentist's chair for listening
Well. Right now i've been planning to spend around not more than 50-60$ on material for the sub. Then i need something to power with, but i'm not sure what would be suitable.
And then i need a XO, low-pass for subs and high-pass for EL70's.
So i guess it will be around 400-500$ for all those things i mentioned, right?
And that's actually a little bit more than i want to spend but hopefully i get can some cash from selling my old speaker setup.
Anybody knows how much rockwool i should use and where in the speakers?
It's just the thing that i don't know how to damp them that keeps me from finishing them.
I will try to get some "better" material next weekend when i go to Gothenburg for a quite big Hi-Fi festival. I really look forward to it, lots of nice stuff such as Wilson Maxx3 (i think that was the name), Lindell Audio and Dynaudio and many others.
It's just the thing that i don't know how to damp them that keeps me from finishing them.
I will try to get some "better" material next weekend when i go to Gothenburg for a quite big Hi-Fi festival. I really look forward to it, lots of nice stuff such as Wilson Maxx3 (i think that was the name), Lindell Audio and Dynaudio and many others.
Dave - bad luck you live in a wonderful country where trees regularly drop on your house...you can get your mike calibrated for the princely sum of €25 over here.
Costs something like $30-60 to get a calibration on these. I have 2 calibraited & 1 not yet (with the 2 calibrated ones i should be able to do at least a rudimentary cal on the 3rd)
dave