Update.
I finally got to sit down and listen more. Some listening notes.
Its louder, more efficient had to knockdown a couple notches on the volume.
The bass is very tuneful. It can be punchy when called for.
Imaging is very stable. Out into the room, against the wall. Imaging will compress but not collapse.
Now, It seems to have a sort of a bipolar character. It is very open sounding. The imaging depth and presence is very good. I did note an ample amount of music coming from the ports. Mostly bass but also what seems to sound like ambient, reverberant information. Toe-in seemingly amplifies the effect. I did not put any stuffing in the speakers and lined all the parallel surfaces with felt.
Scott,
Please advise on the waveguide. I could easily build. Time permitting I'm building the REAL Half-Chili-Chang this weekend. My ears and I need more education with FR stuff nor have I any experience/heard horns. Until now
Thanks.
I finally got to sit down and listen more. Some listening notes.
Its louder, more efficient had to knockdown a couple notches on the volume.
The bass is very tuneful. It can be punchy when called for.
Imaging is very stable. Out into the room, against the wall. Imaging will compress but not collapse.
Now, It seems to have a sort of a bipolar character. It is very open sounding. The imaging depth and presence is very good. I did note an ample amount of music coming from the ports. Mostly bass but also what seems to sound like ambient, reverberant information. Toe-in seemingly amplifies the effect. I did not put any stuffing in the speakers and lined all the parallel surfaces with felt.
Scott,
Please advise on the waveguide. I could easily build. Time permitting I'm building the REAL Half-Chili-Chang this weekend. My ears and I need more education with FR stuff nor have I any experience/heard horns. Until now
Thanks.Update.
Found some time to take some measurements. I am complete Noob on this. So bear with me. I need help. Hopefully I get my LAUD system operational not easy to find a computer with ISA ports. More familiar with that one. Haven't done this since before I went to grad school. But I'm having fun.
FR Graph of FE167E with mods. Taken at 1 meter. I've put some felt on the spider, diaphragm, basket and magnet. Used poster tac, which is like blutac for damping. The felt tamed a peak at about 7k. Although there is that hole around 4.5k working on it. I really like the idea of modifying the driver itself, rather than correcting it via XO. Its like a holistic approach.
Here's Bob Brine's measurement for comparison. Same speaker different box. Sorry, don't have a saved readings from my modding the driver. Which started back when I put it in the Fostex 15L VB.
Here's the FR of the port. Taken at the port mouth. As you can see the is quite a bit of sound coming from it. Tuning the port via felt damping.
With 4 inches clearance around port. I find this amount of damping to sound best. But, its a work in progress.
Here's with 8 inches clearance around the port. There's a peak at around 10k that made everything too etched and sibilant.
As I've said, I need help. The speaker has a very open sound. Like a bipole. The sound coming from the port is mostly ambient reverberant sound. Gives a sense of "air." Worth investigating. I'm willing to do it. Just more fun for me. Its just going to take awhile. Well.... a long time. I'm planning on increasing the bracing/deflectors to possibly reduce the felt damping. Seems to consistently give the sound more "air." If that doesn't work, I'll try different driver locations. Anyway, that's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help.
Found some time to take some measurements. I am complete Noob on this. So bear with me. I need help. Hopefully I get my LAUD system operational not easy to find a computer with ISA ports. More familiar with that one. Haven't done this since before I went to grad school. But I'm having fun
.FR Graph of FE167E with mods. Taken at 1 meter. I've put some felt on the spider, diaphragm, basket and magnet. Used poster tac, which is like blutac for damping. The felt tamed a peak at about 7k. Although there is that hole around 4.5k working on it. I really like the idea of modifying the driver itself, rather than correcting it via XO. Its like a holistic approach
.
Here's Bob Brine's measurement for comparison. Same speaker different box. Sorry, don't have a saved readings from my modding the driver. Which started back when I put it in the Fostex 15L VB.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's the FR of the port. Taken at the port mouth. As you can see the is quite a bit of sound coming from it. Tuning the port via felt damping.
With 4 inches clearance around port. I find this amount of damping to sound best. But, its a work in progress.
Here's with 8 inches clearance around the port. There's a peak at around 10k that made everything too etched and sibilant.
As I've said, I need help. The speaker has a very open sound. Like a bipole. The sound coming from the port is mostly ambient reverberant sound. Gives a sense of "air." Worth investigating. I'm willing to do it. Just more fun for me. Its just going to take awhile. Well.... a long time
. I'm planning on increasing the bracing/deflectors to possibly reduce the felt damping. Seems to consistently give the sound more "air." If that doesn't work, I'll try different driver locations. Anyway, that's it for now. Thanks in advance for any help.
Historically, horns with too much scattered energy (self comb filtering) have their last reflection zone before the mouth damped with felt, ditto one of any parallel walls: http://www.audioanthology.com/audio3.htm
GM
GM
I was very fortunate to audition one with its original electronics as a teen and it was my wide BW reference until I recently auditioned TD's three way Unity system, so it took 'only' ~80 yrs worth of technology doubling ~ every 3 yrs on average to clearly improve on them in every way we measure audio. Quite an engineering tour de force IMO.
GM
GM
loninappleton said:
With today's electronics to solve the severe timing problems with matching it to super tweeters, woof/sub systems and their extremely high directivity with increasing frequency, yeah they would probably work OK aimed at a dance floor, but would have to be XO'd fairly low for decent coverage in a jazz club, piano bar or similar and with a 40 ft^2 mouth would need a high ceiling to 'fly' them.
Probably better overall to build solid, molded mids/HF sections/driver mock-ups and bury a mid-bass horn driver or two up out of sight to take advantage of the last horn section.
GM
GM said:
http://www.audioanthology.com/building.htm
About in the middle there's picture of the installation at Roxy Jazz Club in Osaka.
Hi there, finally got my Chilis together, still need to trim off the excess ply with the router so no pics yet.
First impressions, compared to the BIBs, these things have more top end, is that odd ?
I've lined the chamber but will be experimenting with some wadding over the next few days to see what it does.
I'm still not quite getting the oomph I'm after, applying a 2db drop between 1.5-3.5k seems to help this, any ideas ? room too bright ?
Perhaps I need a bigger driver than the 167 ? Or perhaps I should just leave them alone for a week or two and see how they are.
Cheers,
Sedge.
First impressions, compared to the BIBs, these things have more top end, is that odd ?
I've lined the chamber but will be experimenting with some wadding over the next few days to see what it does.
I'm still not quite getting the oomph I'm after, applying a 2db drop between 1.5-3.5k seems to help this, any ideas ? room too bright ?
Perhaps I need a bigger driver than the 167 ? Or perhaps I should just leave them alone for a week or two and see how they are.
Cheers,
Sedge.
Well, I finally got to finish this speaker. Sorry, I didn't post sooner. On the greater scheme of things this is pretty low. Besides, its been real quiet here these past few days.
The port FR is OK. Just gives the right reinforcement to the imaging. A decreasing slope as it approaches more directional frequencies. Thanks GM.
This one is for the woodworkers and music lovers out there, the real DIYers. Nothing like the tactile feel of the real world. The aromas and feel of the wood as you work with them or the sound of a piano, like Lynne Arriale's, rendition of "I Loves You, Porgy" played like only a woman can play it. (DMP, With Words Unspoken) Simple things but pretty high on my list. Anyway, I've been warming up to plywood lately.
As for the speaker, well its got a sound to it. A different character. That is why the tuning of the box is important. It really like "voicing" and not trying to get as much bass as possible out of it. Its an like an instrument, imparting its own character. You just have to hear it for yourself. Just add-to-taste.
Thanks to P10 and Scottmoose.
Here are the plans. From the Good Ol' US of A!
The port FR is OK. Just gives the right reinforcement to the imaging. A decreasing slope as it approaches more directional frequencies. Thanks GM.
This one is for the woodworkers and music lovers out there, the real DIYers. Nothing like the tactile feel of the real world. The aromas and feel of the wood as you work with them or the sound of a piano, like Lynne Arriale's, rendition of "I Loves You, Porgy" played like only a woman can play it. (DMP, With Words Unspoken) Simple things but pretty high on my list. Anyway, I've been warming up to plywood lately
.As for the speaker, well its got a sound to it. A different character. That is why the tuning of the box is important. It really like "voicing" and not trying to get as much bass as possible out of it. Its an like an instrument, imparting its own character. You just have to hear it for yourself. Just add-to-taste
.Thanks to P10 and Scottmoose.
Here are the plans. From the Good Ol' US of A!
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