Dang, I nearly forgot this possibility: a good doctor knows when to call a surgeon.
http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=205
You can get a fu king lot of front/rear plates made for $500...with your name engraved of course
Service and quality are 1A.
Cheers Pit
http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=205
You can get a fu king lot of front/rear plates made for $500...with your name engraved of course
Service and quality are 1A.Cheers Pit
There usally plated with nickel and it is conductive.
A common plating metal in high quality connector is gold and contrary to popular belief gold is a bad conductor of electricity.
That is why the plating on connector usually aren't for conductivity they are for corrosion resistance only!
Most surface oxide of common good conductors ARE NOT good conductor except silver is the only on that has a reasonable good conducting oxide.
So that is why nickel or gold is used on connector fro crossion resistance not conductivity.
These metals are also malleably which keeps it in good shape after many make and breaks of the connection.
Also a very thin layer of a less conductive metal on a highly conductive metal will not pose high resistance becausr these layer are only a few mill's thick ie .001 to .01 inchs
If you are worried about conductivity you should use only silver but this will only be useful at frequincy's above 2khz.
So having a nickel layer over contacts on connectors wont create noticably heating from resistance unless they are overloaded.
Nick
A common plating metal in high quality connector is gold and contrary to popular belief gold is a bad conductor of electricity.
That is why the plating on connector usually aren't for conductivity they are for corrosion resistance only!
Most surface oxide of common good conductors ARE NOT good conductor except silver is the only on that has a reasonable good conducting oxide.
So that is why nickel or gold is used on connector fro crossion resistance not conductivity.
These metals are also malleably which keeps it in good shape after many make and breaks of the connection.
Also a very thin layer of a less conductive metal on a highly conductive metal will not pose high resistance becausr these layer are only a few mill's thick ie .001 to .01 inchs
If you are worried about conductivity you should use only silver but this will only be useful at frequincy's above 2khz.
So having a nickel layer over contacts on connectors wont create noticably heating from resistance unless they are overloaded.
Nick
I really appreciate the info on the nibbling tool, I've used one for ceramic tiles, but didn't know there was one for thin metal. That's the next item on my list. I've had to file to get some neat square holes, and that seems to mess of the nerves on my thumb, felt numb for a few days.
Another thing I use, besides Greenlee punches (and sometimes Harbor Freight has a cheap crude punch set too for about $10 which I use as a lat resort if I need the size),
is a step drill, I got a set of 3 for $50 at Lowes, they drill aluminum really well one step at a time, and are great, even with a cordless drill, for pilot light holes, fuse sockets, even 7 & 9 pin tube sockets, but won't do a full inch hole, just 7/8". The ones I have are Erwin, but Greenles still makes these are they're in the electrician specialty tool aisle of lowes, which also has some reasonably priced well-made toggle switches, heat-shrink tubing, some multitesters, etc
Another thing I use, besides Greenlee punches (and sometimes Harbor Freight has a cheap crude punch set too for about $10 which I use as a lat resort if I need the size),
is a step drill, I got a set of 3 for $50 at Lowes, they drill aluminum really well one step at a time, and are great, even with a cordless drill, for pilot light holes, fuse sockets, even 7 & 9 pin tube sockets, but won't do a full inch hole, just 7/8". The ones I have are Erwin, but Greenles still makes these are they're in the electrician specialty tool aisle of lowes, which also has some reasonably priced well-made toggle switches, heat-shrink tubing, some multitesters, etc
Since there's a flange on the unit, it covers up slight discrepancies from the optimum size. for that reason I make two drill holles, side by side, and then use a hole saw to cut two circles, one overlapping the other. To make the corners, finish off with a square file. Quick way to do it. I have a cheap and generic drill press, which I use a lot.
nhuwar said:
I wanted to show something that will do job in question. If one is thinking on investing in mill, and performing various jobs than certainly do not go for the smallest one. For little more more - something like $ 800-1000 there are really good ones available on ebay. If you are planning to do a lot, there are big ones in the range of $ 1500 - 2000 even some Bridgeports. It just depends on space requirement and how deep you would like to go into. I love it, started from scratch and learning every day.
nhuwar said:
Agreed. This is what I am using
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1007
which is nice compromise between small and big machine. Yet there are situation when I really would like to have knee mill.
Thats not bad.
This is what I use but I dont own it
http://www.bpt.com/index.asp?pageID=63&prodID=56
But I dont have one at home yet I was thinking of buying that combination unit.
Nick
This is what I use but I dont own it
http://www.bpt.com/index.asp?pageID=63&prodID=56
But I dont have one at home yet I was thinking of buying that combination unit.
Nick
Oh, man... oh man. Lucky you. That is the best of the best.
I started learning machining out of frustration simillar to Engels. I got small lathe and mill/drill. Made some improvements by installing VFD and thre phase motor and DROs
Machining is art on its own, once you go into it - it is beautifull. After initial learning, I just started making something - a big amp case. Here is the picture of the top grills that I just completed.
There are some more pics in this tread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70037&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=2
When I started learning I was completly clueless (not much better now ether) and there is a lot to learn, but what a pleasure making something in metal. Unfortunatelly this craft/art of manual machining is disapearing and is replaced by CNC. But as a result of that and availability of cheap chinese machines it is getting easier to go into as hobby.
Stay well
AR2
PS Now I now whom to bother for machinning tips.
I started learning machining out of frustration simillar to Engels. I got small lathe and mill/drill. Made some improvements by installing VFD and thre phase motor and DROs
Machining is art on its own, once you go into it - it is beautifull. After initial learning, I just started making something - a big amp case. Here is the picture of the top grills that I just completed.
There are some more pics in this tread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70037&perpage=20&highlight=&pagenumber=2
When I started learning I was completly clueless (not much better now ether) and there is a lot to learn, but what a pleasure making something in metal. Unfortunatelly this craft/art of manual machining is disapearing and is replaced by CNC. But as a result of that and availability of cheap chinese machines it is getting easier to go into as hobby.
Stay well
AR2
PS Now I now whom to bother for machinning tips.
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