OK then i've had one of those thru here but i only vaguely remember them (a pic would help... hint, hint). The mid horns are a Coral OEM... It seems to me the tweeter was a Philips dome -- althou given the condition of the carcasses it could have been a retrofit for a blown tweeter.
I see no pics to help me even remember what the woofs looked like (which may mean i still have them, but that would be odd)
dave
I would test the params myself but the only function generator that I have is a PC based one and the sound card in my PC is not too great. I think that the card itself starts to roll off before 50Hz. It might go low enough for the 1848s though.
I was thinking that it might be kind of fun to try making some rear loaded horns out of the triax's. I had used them in a van for awhile (even though they are 8ohm) and they sounded pretty good. Eventunally I want to build a true front loaded horn system but for my smallish (about 150-200 ft^2) listening room I bet that a rear horn system should do pretty well.
The wall that my fireplace is on adjoins the attached garage and has a large (3-4' wide) area on each side that is sunk back in with heavy shelves and cabinets which currently hold the JBLs, books, records and such. I eventually want to gut that area, build the walls flush and install 3 way plus sub horns into it. The idea is to have High, Mid, and midbass horns on each side and a single channel sub. The final system would have SETs for mids and highs, PP tube for the midbass (or possibly a relatively high power SET) and either PP tube or sand for the sub.
I would have to do this in stages initially using 3 class A sand amps and then spliting things up and adding the tubes as finances allow. I suspect that a single SET per side could handle both the mid and high horns at the same time (with passive crossover) until I could afford one amp per driver.
Initial sub would probably be direct radiating or slot loaded but my dream is a horn tuned to reproduce the low C 32 foot pedal stop on a pipe organ (16Hz I believe).
I am considering placing the power amps in the garage to help reduce microphonics but I am a little concerned that the non-climate controlled environment might not be too good for them. I might have to heat and cool the garage if I do that.
mike
I was thinking that it might be kind of fun to try making some rear loaded horns out of the triax's. I had used them in a van for awhile (even though they are 8ohm) and they sounded pretty good. Eventunally I want to build a true front loaded horn system but for my smallish (about 150-200 ft^2) listening room I bet that a rear horn system should do pretty well.
The wall that my fireplace is on adjoins the attached garage and has a large (3-4' wide) area on each side that is sunk back in with heavy shelves and cabinets which currently hold the JBLs, books, records and such. I eventually want to gut that area, build the walls flush and install 3 way plus sub horns into it. The idea is to have High, Mid, and midbass horns on each side and a single channel sub. The final system would have SETs for mids and highs, PP tube for the midbass (or possibly a relatively high power SET) and either PP tube or sand for the sub.
I would have to do this in stages initially using 3 class A sand amps and then spliting things up and adding the tubes as finances allow. I suspect that a single SET per side could handle both the mid and high horns at the same time (with passive crossover) until I could afford one amp per driver.
Initial sub would probably be direct radiating or slot loaded but my dream is a horn tuned to reproduce the low C 32 foot pedal stop on a pipe organ (16Hz I believe).
I am considering placing the power amps in the garage to help reduce microphonics but I am a little concerned that the non-climate controlled environment might not be too good for them. I might have to heat and cool the garage if I do that.
mike
Hi,
Q1. Is ferrite different from ceramic when specifying speaker magnets?
Q2. Do each come in different strengths?
Q3. The older speakers have a long cylindrical magnet and modern ones have a pancake shaped magnet, why?
Q4. How can you compare flux across the voice coil gap?
Q5. Is gap flux the right thing to measure for comparison of magnetic motors?
Q6. what are the fundamental geometry concerms to maximise magnetic motor efficiency?
There must be other useful answers to get this thread back on track.
Then we might find that other factors than size are important to Magnet ... Basics.
Q1. Is ferrite different from ceramic when specifying speaker magnets?
Q2. Do each come in different strengths?
Q3. The older speakers have a long cylindrical magnet and modern ones have a pancake shaped magnet, why?
Q4. How can you compare flux across the voice coil gap?
Q5. Is gap flux the right thing to measure for comparison of magnetic motors?
Q6. what are the fundamental geometry concerms to maximise magnetic motor efficiency?
There must be other useful answers to get this thread back on track.
Then we might find that other factors than size are important to Magnet ... Basics.
http://home5.inet.tele.dk/f-hammer/fildcoil/measure.htmAndrewT said:
Gap flux will only tell you the motor strength (B). You will usually want to combine this with the winding (L) for something more useful. Comparing gap flux will also not tell you the linearity over the gap which is far more important, or the potential inductance. So by itself comparing motor flux is pretty pointless.AndrewT said:
The aim is simply to create a magnetic circuit and have the flux saturate in the gap. There is a certain geometry required and you can get a better understanding of this by playing with FEMM.AndrewT said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I really don't know why people concern themselves with 'Magnet Size'. I'll put this in the same category as Watts, MHz, BHP.
Thank you very much mashaffer for posting a picture of the Mach One speaker!
Does that help you a bit planet10?
I don't have Mach One here, they are at home, also the foam surrounds are almost completely destroyed, so maybe a picture wouldn't help you hehe!
I ordered surrounds from Florida to repair them.
Does that help you a bit planet10?
I don't have Mach One here, they are at home, also the foam surrounds are almost completely destroyed, so maybe a picture wouldn't help you hehe!
I ordered surrounds from Florida to repair them.
And the bottom.
I really think I will be able to put these to use. I am still thinking that the two smaller speakers will make a nice practice amp for a keyboard and the 15" should be useful for a sub. The magnet on that 15 really is huge. I can barely hold it by the magnet with one hand.
I don't know what kind of shape the PA is in since the organ was making a lot of crackle, hiss and buzz when I began dissasembly. It is possible that all of that was in other circuits though. We shall see. I like those heatsinks and the transformer is pretty heafty too.
mike
I really think I will be able to put these to use. I am still thinking that the two smaller speakers will make a nice practice amp for a keyboard and the 15" should be useful for a sub. The magnet on that 15 really is huge. I can barely hold it by the magnet with one hand.
I don't know what kind of shape the PA is in since the organ was making a lot of crackle, hiss and buzz when I began dissasembly. It is possible that all of that was in other circuits though. We shall see. I like those heatsinks and the transformer is pretty heafty too.
mike
Attachments
What numbers on the speakers... that 10" looks quite nice... and pics of the backsides (often the basket tells more than the cone).
The way the amp is layed out is interesting... i think you might be better off figuring what you can make using the chassis & the trafo than trying to make the old one work....
dave
The way the amp is layed out is interesting... i think you might be better off figuring what you can make using the chassis & the trafo than trying to make the old one work....
dave
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.