To elaborate a bit on room requirements, my experience with the rear mouthed designs - either single such as FH family or double mouthed as with the Maeshowe/ Valiant is that some “breathing”room behind and to adjacent sides helps considerable, but listening distances can be closer than with front mouthed designs such as Vampyr/Venom or some of the earlier Spawn series - Aiko, Kongo, Kirishima, etc.
Thanks! I was under the impression that a larger room was required.
Dhaka y shob bhalo toh? Apologies to non-Bengali speakers. I just couldn't help myself during these locked-down times
Kingshuk,
Thanks for asking, we are fine thank you. However as you might already know, due to Covid-19 situation everything except essential services are closed.
I hope things are good at your end too?
Btw, just an idea- if you plan to go ahead with the FH3, maybe build it with a removable supra-baffle, as that will give you the opportunity to experiment with other drivers in the future.
We are fine as well... a little maddening at times as we are not used to not having any crowds
A supra-baffle seems like a great idea!I recently came into possession of a pair of FE108e∑ Sigma drivers and I'm building the BK12M enclosures. I'm at the step in the process where I'm about to glue the second side wall into place and it occurs to me that I'm going to be entombing the inside portion of the binding posts for all time. Which suggests that I should have gone with the cup option.
Is there any advice as to how I should make the wire connections so that I can be certain to never need to access these wires in the future?
Is there any advice as to how I should make the wire connections so that I can be certain to never need to access these wires in the future?
Like everyone. It's inherent in the driver. I'm guessing you didn't do any research on Fostex drivers?
jeff
The stock Fostex have some issues which drives some nuts, dosn’t bother others.
The drivers need at least 100 hrs on them before judgement or tweaking.
Any leask in the horn will cause a short-circuit and no bass. The FE126 is bass challenges to start with, and if the horn isn’t helping things get worse. BK12 does not try to maximize that extenion (it is too small, but that was the design brief from Madisound)
What amp are you using? These drivers like a high Rout amplifier.
dave
The drivers need at least 100 hrs on them before judgement or tweaking.
Any leask in the horn will cause a short-circuit and no bass. The FE126 is bass challenges to start with, and if the horn isn’t helping things get worse. BK12 does not try to maximize that extenion (it is too small, but that was the design brief from Madisound)
What amp are you using? These drivers like a high Rout amplifier.
dave
Things to do:
1. Play them 4 days straight, I'm not close to that many hours on them.
2. Check for leaks. I'm using the supplied gasket, is that adequate?
3. Try different amplifier. I'm testing them in the workshop with a Teac AI-101. After they are broken in I'll try them in the living room using a NAD amp.
Thanks for the advice.
I found a write up of the BK-12 in Hobby HiFi 6/2016. They describe two parallel notch filters. I haven't seen this referenced any where else.
1. Play them 4 days straight, I'm not close to that many hours on them.
2. Check for leaks. I'm using the supplied gasket, is that adequate?
3. Try different amplifier. I'm testing them in the workshop with a Teac AI-101. After they are broken in I'll try them in the living room using a NAD amp.
Thanks for the advice.
I found a write up of the BK-12 in Hobby HiFi 6/2016. They describe two parallel notch filters. I haven't seen this referenced any where else.
I'd say more than 200 hrs running in although things start getting for the better after 50 hrs. When I listened to mine for the first time I thought it was the worst sound I have ever heard from a speaker. It seemed like a '60s portable transistor radio. Then I put it in the basement and let it play for 10 days in low volume. The sound improved loads.
Apart from BSC there are some NON REVERSIBLE modifications straight to the cone with Modpodge, Dammar and EnABl process.
Search really hard and you'll find lots of info.
I have been using mine for more than 8 years with a SE KT88 (and a NAD C320 but, although it was sweet and relaxed, I was missing on bass. As a general rule, current amplifiers do not match well with fullrange speakers) and I'm delighted with the detail and naturaleness of them.
Of course I have done every available modification to tame the 6-7Khz shout and forward midrange.
Apart from BSC there are some NON REVERSIBLE modifications straight to the cone with Modpodge, Dammar and EnABl process.
Search really hard and you'll find lots of info.
I have been using mine for more than 8 years with a SE KT88 (and a NAD C320 but, although it was sweet and relaxed, I was missing on bass. As a general rule, current amplifiers do not match well with fullrange speakers) and I'm delighted with the detail and naturaleness of them.
Of course I have done every available modification to tame the 6-7Khz shout and forward midrange.
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For sealing the driver. Ensure you have not overtighted the scores. I was more worried about leaks at the joints.
That TEAC is a relatively decent amp (i had one for a week or so), but far from ideal for the fe126. It could be bandaided by adding a series R into the speaker wire (or use really skinny speaker wire).
dave
Damar has to be used with extreme caution. Also ZIG 2-way glue at the surround/cone interface on the back of the driver.
dave
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