Hi Euge555 and all diyAudio friends,
Tomorrow I will upload the schematic for the Luxman D-107U(closest similar toD-105U)
on the site http://fileshare.eshop.bg
The file is big(20MB) in 9 parts and I have only 56k modem.....
Please be patient
Cheers
Tomorrow I will upload the schematic for the Luxman D-107U(closest similar toD-105U)
on the site http://fileshare.eshop.bg
The file is big(20MB) in 9 parts and I have only 56k modem.....
Please be patient
Cheers
Luxman LV-105 Service Manual
Hi:
My LV-105(not 105u) just turned dumb. Could anyone send me a copy of Service Manual?
If anyone could suggest possible problem, will oblige.
(The tubes glow, and the heat sink warmed up.....)
Thanks in advance!
oakao
oakao@canada.com
Hi:
My LV-105(not 105u) just turned dumb. Could anyone send me a copy of Service Manual?
If anyone could suggest possible problem, will oblige.
(The tubes glow, and the heat sink warmed up.....)
Thanks in advance!
oakao
oakao@canada.com
Luxman LV-105 Power
Oh yeah, one more question.
My LV-105 is 220V. version. I have been using step up transformer always, not a big deal though, but any easy way to modify it to 120V? beg for a suggestion.
oakao
oakao@canada.com
Oh yeah, one more question.
My LV-105 is 220V. version. I have been using step up transformer always, not a big deal though, but any easy way to modify it to 120V? beg for a suggestion.
oakao
oakao@canada.com
Hi Chris (Anatech):
Thank you for replying.
I read from forums, there maybe 3 versions, CSA/UL, M, and a 3rd that is switchable between 220/120. Maybe I send you a picture of the power tap pcb see what it is with mine.
Any tips for me on getting a copy of service manual?
I'm in GTA.
B. rgds,
Clem (oakao)
Thank you for replying.
I read from forums, there maybe 3 versions, CSA/UL, M, and a 3rd that is switchable between 220/120. Maybe I send you a picture of the power tap pcb see what it is with mine.
Any tips for me on getting a copy of service manual?
I'm in GTA.
B. rgds,
Clem (oakao)
Luxman LV 105
Hi Chris and fellow folks:
With the very little time and knowledge I have, I read your exchange of ideas here on LV105 (including LV103), likely the FETs, Q's and the driving gates are something common in causing problems. Would it be a clear cut to just change all of them? Am I to understand correctly or not?
As I told you, my LV 105 gone dumb. No hissssss no hum from any inputs gangs. I have spent a bit of time to look into it in brief:
1. when power on, it came up.
2. both tubes glew.
3. 4 LEDs on PCB glew.
4. Heat Sink warmed up, BUT, when I used my finger to touch it, appeared to me right side was vey hot and left side was just warm. I further felt the FETs, same result. The R channel's are very hot, and not really for the L.
What would be problem of mine?
Am I still expecting your reply on 105 and 105u? Voltage change is not really a big issue though, as I can use transformer.
Happy Easter!
Clem
Hi Chris and fellow folks:
With the very little time and knowledge I have, I read your exchange of ideas here on LV105 (including LV103), likely the FETs, Q's and the driving gates are something common in causing problems. Would it be a clear cut to just change all of them? Am I to understand correctly or not?
As I told you, my LV 105 gone dumb. No hissssss no hum from any inputs gangs. I have spent a bit of time to look into it in brief:
1. when power on, it came up.
2. both tubes glew.
3. 4 LEDs on PCB glew.
4. Heat Sink warmed up, BUT, when I used my finger to touch it, appeared to me right side was vey hot and left side was just warm. I further felt the FETs, same result. The R channel's are very hot, and not really for the L.
What would be problem of mine?
Am I still expecting your reply on 105 and 105u? Voltage change is not really a big issue though, as I can use transformer.
Happy Easter!
Clem
While I was reading your thread, my LV-105 started acting up. I was about to try figuring out why the CD input was a mess, everthing else worked fine. Then the amp starts clicking in and out whenever I try to drive it. I can get a bit of signal for a brief period at low levels then is just clicks out. It sounds like protection but it can't be thermal, it starts before the thing is warm.
BTW--I have a pdf of the service manual. Its too big to upload here but I can try to email it if anyone needs it.
BTW--I have a pdf of the service manual. Its too big to upload here but I can try to email it if anyone needs it.
I'm unlikely able to fix my LV 105. May consider to sell it "as is" to someone who can make good use of it. Any one interested?
Make an offer!
oakao@canada.com
Make an offer!
oakao@canada.com
ilimzn said:
Hi all, I'm new here but I have an LV-105 with one bad channel which of course prevents the protection cct from kicking it on. I've found one open resistor (a 430ohm) and I'm guessing I'll have to replace the outputs etc.
So if I'm reading this correctly the original 2SK405 and 2SJ115 are no longer available and a good substitute would be the above mentioned units and there are no modifications necessary?
I'm guessing though that I'd want to replace both channels to keep things even.
Thanks
Hi all, I have a luxman lv-105 that went dumb too. I have successfully repaired it by replacing all the transistors/FETs on the main board and the driver board which was located under the main pcb on mine.
I have the manual for it for anyone who needs it
http://rapidshare.com/files/102029430/LV105.pdf.html
I got my parts from here.
http://www.audiolabga.com/
The parts I used:
2sk1529 x2
2sj200 x2
2sa1321 x2
2sa1360 x4
2sc3423 x10
2sc1815 x6
2sa733 x2
2sc3378 x2
2sa970 x1
I have the manual for it for anyone who needs it
http://rapidshare.com/files/102029430/LV105.pdf.html
I got my parts from here.
http://www.audiolabga.com/
The parts I used:
2sk1529 x2
2sj200 x2
2sa1321 x2
2sa1360 x4
2sc3423 x10
2sc1815 x6
2sa733 x2
2sc3378 x2
2sa970 x1
Luxman F-105
Hi DIYers,
Sorry to interrupt you. I'm new to this thread.
I have just bought a junk Luxman F-105. Unfortunately, upon powering-up, it didn'nt work. When I open the
cage, i found out that there's a missing IC and a 2nd transformer. A transformer maybe used to power the
video sect or surround circuit.
I believe it was junked due to maybe there's no vailable parts in our place. the transformer no. is T-845.
Is there any one out there who can help me find a schematic
so that I can rewind the transformer. any one who can figure-out what voltages this transformer has.
thanks,
Ric
Hi DIYers,
Sorry to interrupt you. I'm new to this thread.
I have just bought a junk Luxman F-105. Unfortunately, upon powering-up, it didn'nt work. When I open the
cage, i found out that there's a missing IC and a 2nd transformer. A transformer maybe used to power the
video sect or surround circuit.
I believe it was junked due to maybe there's no vailable parts in our place. the transformer no. is T-845.
Is there any one out there who can help me find a schematic
so that I can rewind the transformer. any one who can figure-out what voltages this transformer has.
thanks,
Ric
A couple of things tend to go wrong with the LV103/105:
1) Dead output FETs (usually by mishap, short on output etc, but can happen because of some of the following faults). Use standard methods to fix... original FETs are no longer available, use K1529/J200, with a bit of work (due to larger case) the circuit will also drive K1530/J201 with no trouble, and be somewhat more robust. For optimum results bias current will have to be pushed into the 150mA range for the K1529/J200, and up to 200mA for the K1530/J200. Unfortunately this will increase the heat generated. it is also possible to use IRFP240/9140 on the 103, or 340/9240 on the 105, even though IRFP240/9240 will also work (and not be nearly ideally complementary), in all cases IRFP parts need changes to the bias servo circuit to account for the higher treshold voltage of these MOSFETs.
2) Dead power supply caps, particulairly the DC heater circuit filter cap tends to get fried by the heater circuit rectifier which is very near it. Replace bridge with one on longer leads and a heatsink, or even better, with schottky diodes. Check the power supply PCB for heat damage due to overheating bridge. In some cases the bridge fails and explosively destroys the cap...
3) Cold solder joints on the main amp and/or tube daughterboard. There is a lot of heat going on there with the high supply voltages and many cascoded BJTs in a tight space, also tube sockets and tubes, and all of it on phenolic resin boards. Sometimes the boards themselves have so much thermal dilation they can crack (espacially the tube daughterboards). The parts themselves usualy do not fail, rather the solder joints do, then the circuit msbehaves and something fails. Resoldering with lead free solder can cure this, it has a higher melting point, however, this will be moot if the board is thermally damaged or cracked. Check the electrolytics on that board, they tend to get cooked by the surrounding parts
1) Dead output FETs (usually by mishap, short on output etc, but can happen because of some of the following faults). Use standard methods to fix... original FETs are no longer available, use K1529/J200, with a bit of work (due to larger case) the circuit will also drive K1530/J201 with no trouble, and be somewhat more robust. For optimum results bias current will have to be pushed into the 150mA range for the K1529/J200, and up to 200mA for the K1530/J200. Unfortunately this will increase the heat generated. it is also possible to use IRFP240/9140 on the 103, or 340/9240 on the 105, even though IRFP240/9240 will also work (and not be nearly ideally complementary), in all cases IRFP parts need changes to the bias servo circuit to account for the higher treshold voltage of these MOSFETs.
2) Dead power supply caps, particulairly the DC heater circuit filter cap tends to get fried by the heater circuit rectifier which is very near it. Replace bridge with one on longer leads and a heatsink, or even better, with schottky diodes. Check the power supply PCB for heat damage due to overheating bridge. In some cases the bridge fails and explosively destroys the cap...
3) Cold solder joints on the main amp and/or tube daughterboard. There is a lot of heat going on there with the high supply voltages and many cascoded BJTs in a tight space, also tube sockets and tubes, and all of it on phenolic resin boards. Sometimes the boards themselves have so much thermal dilation they can crack (espacially the tube daughterboards). The parts themselves usualy do not fail, rather the solder joints do, then the circuit msbehaves and something fails. Resoldering with lead free solder can cure this, it has a higher melting point, however, this will be moot if the board is thermally damaged or cracked. Check the electrolytics on that board, they tend to get cooked by the surrounding parts
Hi.
Got my lv-105 unit with busted output FETS.I have tried using the replacements as suggested here:2sk1058 & 2sj162. Problem, my unit relay goes into protect mode whenever I adjust volume from 11 o clock to above.What could be wrong?
Would appreciate your advise to help me resuscitate this unit.
Thanks
Got my lv-105 unit with busted output FETS.I have tried using the replacements as suggested here:2sk1058 & 2sj162. Problem, my unit relay goes into protect mode whenever I adjust volume from 11 o clock to above.What could be wrong?
Would appreciate your advise to help me resuscitate this unit.
Thanks
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