woodturner-fran said:
Given your considerable wood working skill?
Now finding something to rival a Quad 57 at what is does really well is something people have been trying to do for 51 years
Whatever box you put the 206 in, you better have your mod kit from Ed
dave
PS: i wouldn't burn the acoustas if they are well b uilt... load them with whatever is cheap (preferably vintage), and handd them upside down in someone's barn or garage.
PPS: i know a woofer that works really well with the fonken.
Thanks fellas,
Got the plans this morning - must have just been me at home last night.
So looking at the sachiko and bruce 1v1 and 1v2 it kinda appears that the sachiko might be the easier build, just based on the angles and so on.
Question is though, what sounds the best?
Also is there a rating anywhere for the dB/W/m for the fe206 in one of these - as I said, I don't want too much sensitivity!!
Dave: No, I was given the acoustas in good faith and don't want to just dump them. I don't want to spend money on them either! I'll probably keep them and if I find a suitable driver will stick them in there. I do have one of Eds kits - unopened and not applied yet. Thanks for the compliment (I think?) but I'm not that good......
Is the woofer you're talking about the fonken one? Might have to build that, but have resisted just due to the complications of driving it and crossovers etc etc.
Fran
Got the plans this morning - must have just been me at home last night.
So looking at the sachiko and bruce 1v1 and 1v2 it kinda appears that the sachiko might be the easier build, just based on the angles and so on.
Question is though, what sounds the best?
Also is there a rating anywhere for the dB/W/m for the fe206 in one of these - as I said, I don't want too much sensitivity!!
Dave: No, I was given the acoustas in good faith and don't want to just dump them. I don't want to spend money on them either! I'll probably keep them and if I find a suitable driver will stick them in there. I do have one of Eds kits - unopened and not applied yet. Thanks for the compliment (I think?) but I'm not that good......
Is the woofer you're talking about the fonken one? Might have to build that, but have resisted just due to the complications of driving it and crossovers etc etc.
Fran
'Can't answer that. I generally avoid the term 'best' when used in this kind of context like the plague, because it's usually meaningless. What some consider preferable, others do not. They're different, not better or worse.
Why not? The higher the better. Brute force engineering perhaps, but you can always loose what you don't need, should this be necessary. It's somewhat harder to boost what isn't there in the first place. WRT their efficiency, I designed about 3db over nominal rated driver sensitivity into them (in 1/2 space), partly for this reason, amongst others. You're looking at around 96 - 97db 1w /1m from Fc up to ~18KHz, not that that means a lot because they're intended for a listening distance a minimum of 8ft away. Remember that the cabinet is only really operating over a very narrow BW, from Fc to 300Hz though. The rest is the driver.
Thanks,
The question was asked in a "I can build either one, these are the drivers I have, which should I build?" kinda way...... I understand you exactly when you say that its down to preferences.
The thing is that even saying that, it means to me that both will sound good, and that its really just flavours of sound. Would you agree with that assumption?
Its looking like I would build the sachiko rather than the bruce, just it looks easier to me. Normally when something is easier it don't sound as good
I take it baltic birch is the was to go for making these, right? Must go and search out some build pics.....
Fran
The question was asked in a "I can build either one, these are the drivers I have, which should I build?" kinda way...... I understand you exactly when you say that its down to preferences.
The thing is that even saying that, it means to me that both will sound good, and that its really just flavours of sound. Would you agree with that assumption?
Its looking like I would build the sachiko rather than the bruce, just it looks easier to me. Normally when something is easier it don't sound as good
I take it baltic birch is the was to go for making these, right? Must go and search out some build pics.....
Fran
woodturner-fran said:Thanks,
The question was asked in a "I can build either one, these are the drivers I have, which should I build?" kinda way...... I understand you exactly when you say that its down to preferences.
The thing is that even saying that, it means to me that both will sound good, and that its really just flavours of sound. Would you agree with that assumption?
Its looking like I would build the sachiko rather than the bruce, just it looks easier to me. Normally when something is easier it don't sound as good
I take it baltic birch is the was to go for making these, right? Must go and search out some build pics.....
Fran
Having built a couple of pairs of Scott's Nagaoka style BLH and several pairs of FH and Brynn (baby BVR for the FE127, but also works very well with the HA FR4.5 ), I actually would have thought the Bruce would be an easier build. There are fewer pieces than the Sachiko, albeit quite a few angled cuts, the odd angles which can be tricky to repeat. I use a miter chop saw to cut a reference angle on scrap material, set the table saw to that angle. As Dave's notes on the drawing indicate, a good gap filling glue such as moisture cured polyurethane (Gorilla Glue, etc) and judicious sanding would take care of any minor variances.
Regarding material, it's no secret that we prefer the sound of Baltic Birch plywood on any type of loudspeaker cabinet, but also note that available sheet dimensions might further complicate things. In our location, the "shop grade" BB (as in rotary cut face veneers of widely varying cosmetic quality) is comes in 5x5ft sheets, while similar quality multi-core veneer plywood in the more conventional 4x8ft sheets can start at approx twice the cost of the BB, regardless of the species and quality of face veneers. I've tried several Asian sourced "multicore" plywoods over the past 5 years, and would avoid them for any serious speaker enclosure - voids, delaminations, substantial thickness variations - as much as over 1mm within the same sheet.
It's not without reason than many of Scott's Spawn designs are within that 60" dimension - however some simply require a longer horn length, and are taller. This significantly complicates construction when using 60" stock, but of course can be achieved by overlapping thinner sheets for the side and rear panels.
not completely OT, but I couldn't help but smile at this toy, for setting those obscure angles on your table saw:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,240,41064,57056&p=57056
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,240,41064,57056&p=57056
Lee valley always did great gadgets! Having said that, cutting a few bits of scrap on the mitre saw and having them to hand is a great way too, especially when the joint will be hidden from view in any case.
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I see in the sachiko plans that you can substitute a simple angled plate for the stepped parts in the mouth of the horn. You save a sheet by doing this. Is one preferable over the other sonically?
Fran
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I see in the sachiko plans that you can substitute a simple angled plate for the stepped parts in the mouth of the horn. You save a sheet by doing this. Is one preferable over the other sonically?
Fran
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