I have made a list of all the drivers that have been mentioned
Peerless 850136
50 pds each @ wilmslow audio, so thats too expensive and i dont know what postage will be.
Over 50pds each at Audio Components so again too expensive.
Monacor SP-215
34 pds each @ wilmslow audio, agin a bit too much and will have to add postage to that too.
The local store that sells Audax was Maplins, I had a quick look in on saturday, they didnt have any 8in drivers on the shelf but im sure they could order in any model for me.
On their web site they have Audax AP210Z0 for 25.99 pds each and also an Eminence Alpha 8MR for 29 pds each, very afordable but are they any good?
Could any one point me in the direction of a site that has some pics/diagrams of speaker ports.
We had loads of 3in pvc pipe the last time i looked behind the shed, if its not there i can get some more no prob.
Thanks for all your help so far.
Peerless 850136
50 pds each @ wilmslow audio, so thats too expensive and i dont know what postage will be.
Over 50pds each at Audio Components so again too expensive.
Monacor SP-215
34 pds each @ wilmslow audio, agin a bit too much and will have to add postage to that too.
The local store that sells Audax was Maplins, I had a quick look in on saturday, they didnt have any 8in drivers on the shelf but im sure they could order in any model for me.
On their web site they have Audax AP210Z0 for 25.99 pds each and also an Eminence Alpha 8MR for 29 pds each, very afordable but are they any good?
Could any one point me in the direction of a site that has some pics/diagrams of speaker ports.
We had loads of 3in pvc pipe the last time i looked behind the shed, if its not there i can get some more no prob.
Thanks for all your help so far.
Kram:
The Eminence Alphas are meant for PA work. You could do worse than take a good quality PA speaker and use it for a stereo, especially if you made it clear that this is not a "reference" system-just something you want to listen to that sounds decent. But if you can get a respected manufacturer's home speaker, that probably would be a better idea. Don't eliminate the Eminence Alpha, but let's see what else might be available.
Here is yet another British source for speakers. Nothing listed there is within your price range, but keep in mind for future projects.
http://www.falcon-acoustics.co.uk/
I included the Monacors because I was hoping you would find a cheaper source for them. Wilmslow was somewhat high on the Peerless', so I was hoping that the Monacors would be found cheaper someplace else.
I think your project should be do-able with a little careful looking.
Say, are there any British audio fans reading this who can help Kram out? We're going transoceanic here!
The Eminence Alphas are meant for PA work. You could do worse than take a good quality PA speaker and use it for a stereo, especially if you made it clear that this is not a "reference" system-just something you want to listen to that sounds decent. But if you can get a respected manufacturer's home speaker, that probably would be a better idea. Don't eliminate the Eminence Alpha, but let's see what else might be available.
Here is yet another British source for speakers. Nothing listed there is within your price range, but keep in mind for future projects.
http://www.falcon-acoustics.co.uk/
I included the Monacors because I was hoping you would find a cheaper source for them. Wilmslow was somewhat high on the Peerless', so I was hoping that the Monacors would be found cheaper someplace else.
I think your project should be do-able with a little careful looking.
Say, are there any British audio fans reading this who can help Kram out? We're going transoceanic here!
Well, I checked the audax AP210ZO for you. The curve doesn't look half bad, (the 1.5 dB hump in the bass will be barely noticeable), but there a couple of things that make this not as good as the Peerless.
A) I don't believe it has a symmetrical magnetic system. This leads to higher distortion around the tuning frequency. However, the tuning frequency is much lower than the F3 cutoff here, so maybe that is not such a problem.
B) It has a small excursion-only about 2.5 mm. This limits it's output at bass frequencies. With the setup I am about to show you, you should only be getting around 103 dB at 55 Hz. So a 30 watt amplifier just about pushes this to it's limits in the low bass. You can use a larger amp with it though. How big is the amp you were planning to use with this?
On the other hand, this is Audax, a very respected brand, and it goes down to about 50 Hz in your smallish box, and it is in your price range. Barring finding a great deal on a "closeout sale", this might be just the ticket for you.
And you know what? It wouldn't be half bad, either. It would be nice if you could afford the Peerless, but if you are looking for a couple of drivers to make a set of "nice sounding" speakers, these will fill the bill.
Here is the frequency response. The vent would be a 3 inch inside diameter pipe that is 13 3/4 inches long. That tunes the box to 42 Hz. 3 inch elbows are available in home sonstruction stores to fit the vent into the box. Or, a 2" pipe can be used that is 5 5/8 long instead. The 3 inch pipe would be preferred.
A) I don't believe it has a symmetrical magnetic system. This leads to higher distortion around the tuning frequency. However, the tuning frequency is much lower than the F3 cutoff here, so maybe that is not such a problem.
B) It has a small excursion-only about 2.5 mm. This limits it's output at bass frequencies. With the setup I am about to show you, you should only be getting around 103 dB at 55 Hz. So a 30 watt amplifier just about pushes this to it's limits in the low bass. You can use a larger amp with it though. How big is the amp you were planning to use with this?
On the other hand, this is Audax, a very respected brand, and it goes down to about 50 Hz in your smallish box, and it is in your price range. Barring finding a great deal on a "closeout sale", this might be just the ticket for you.
And you know what? It wouldn't be half bad, either. It would be nice if you could afford the Peerless, but if you are looking for a couple of drivers to make a set of "nice sounding" speakers, these will fill the bill.
Here is the frequency response. The vent would be a 3 inch inside diameter pipe that is 13 3/4 inches long. That tunes the box to 42 Hz. 3 inch elbows are available in home sonstruction stores to fit the vent into the box. Or, a 2" pipe can be used that is 5 5/8 long instead. The 3 inch pipe would be preferred.
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Hi kelticwizard thanks for all your help so far
I will take your advice and go for the Audax i mentioned. Ill go to maplins tomorrow and order it if they dont have it in stock. Hopefully it wont take too long to arrive
would it be possible to use the tweeters i allready have and still be able to designe a suitable crossover?
i am assuming that the 13 3/4 inches long tube for the port goes inside the box and i use a 90degree elbow to join it to the port hole. Am i correct?
Thank you.
I will take your advice and go for the Audax i mentioned. Ill go to maplins tomorrow and order it if they dont have it in stock. Hopefully it wont take too long to arrive
would it be possible to use the tweeters i allready have and still be able to designe a suitable crossover?
i am assuming that the 13 3/4 inches long tube for the port goes inside the box and i use a 90degree elbow to join it to the port hole. Am i correct?
Thank you.
Kram:
Your first question: am assuming that the 13 3/4 inches long tube for the port goes inside the box and i use a 90 degree elbow to join it to the port hole. Am i correct?
You can do it that way if you want. Or, you can have the PVC tube go into the box for several inches, then join to an elbow that takes the tube upward. Either way is fine. One thing: be certain that the port opening on the inside is completely clear of any obstruction, including stuffing. Also, if the port opening is against an interior wall, even a bare wall, the box frequency will be lowered. If you want to put the port opening against a bare wall, make the length 11 inches instead of 13 3/4". That's just a guess on my part.
Remember that the length of the port includes the length of the elbow, measured down the middle.
Do not give yourself a neurosis about the length of the port. I ran the simulations with the port 16" long, and 11.5" long, and you know what? The curve was almost identical! So you have plenty of leeway here.
One important thing. Closed boxes are often filled with stuffing material. This is no good for a ported box. A ported box works well with an inch or so of stuffing lining the interior walls. Of course, no stuffing should be near the port pipe opening on the inside. If necessary, adjust the stuffing amount inside your speaker.
Your first question: am assuming that the 13 3/4 inches long tube for the port goes inside the box and i use a 90 degree elbow to join it to the port hole. Am i correct?
You can do it that way if you want. Or, you can have the PVC tube go into the box for several inches, then join to an elbow that takes the tube upward. Either way is fine. One thing: be certain that the port opening on the inside is completely clear of any obstruction, including stuffing. Also, if the port opening is against an interior wall, even a bare wall, the box frequency will be lowered. If you want to put the port opening against a bare wall, make the length 11 inches instead of 13 3/4". That's just a guess on my part.
Remember that the length of the port includes the length of the elbow, measured down the middle.
Do not give yourself a neurosis about the length of the port. I ran the simulations with the port 16" long, and 11.5" long, and you know what? The curve was almost identical! So you have plenty of leeway here.
One important thing. Closed boxes are often filled with stuffing material. This is no good for a ported box. A ported box works well with an inch or so of stuffing lining the interior walls. Of course, no stuffing should be near the port pipe opening on the inside. If necessary, adjust the stuffing amount inside your speaker.
Kram:
Next question: would it be possible to use the tweeters i allready have and still be able to designe a suitable crossover?
Yes, you very well might. Are the tweeters dome tweeters? Then you might be able to use them.
Take a look at the back of the tweeter. Which is it marked-4 ohm or 8 ohm? If you can, tell us the make and model of the tweeter. Don't be surprised if it is Audax or Peerless! They each make a ton of tweeters for speaker manufacturers, many of them very excellent.
Take a look at the capacitor. Can you see the marking of it's value? It is probably something like 20 uF, 10 uF or lower. Let us know what it is.
There is no sense replacing the tweeter if you have a good model in there already. Let us know what you find.
Next question: would it be possible to use the tweeters i allready have and still be able to designe a suitable crossover?
Yes, you very well might. Are the tweeters dome tweeters? Then you might be able to use them.
Take a look at the back of the tweeter. Which is it marked-4 ohm or 8 ohm? If you can, tell us the make and model of the tweeter. Don't be surprised if it is Audax or Peerless! They each make a ton of tweeters for speaker manufacturers, many of them very excellent.
Take a look at the capacitor. Can you see the marking of it's value? It is probably something like 20 uF, 10 uF or lower. Let us know what it is.
There is no sense replacing the tweeter if you have a good model in there already. Let us know what you find.
Just checked out the response curve of the Audax AP210Z0 on the Audax website.
It has an aerogel cone. Aerogel is a new material just invented a few years ago. It is supposed to be both light and stiff. Speaker manufacturers only use it on speakers they feel will go into very good systems. Apparently, Audax is putting something into these speakers. This is a good sign.
The curve has an anomaly right around where you want to cross over. Hmmm. Shouldn't be TOO bad. Maybe we can do something with it on the crossover.
It has an aerogel cone. Aerogel is a new material just invented a few years ago. It is supposed to be both light and stiff. Speaker manufacturers only use it on speakers they feel will go into very good systems. Apparently, Audax is putting something into these speakers. This is a good sign.
The curve has an anomaly right around where you want to cross over. Hmmm. Shouldn't be TOO bad. Maybe we can do something with it on the crossover.
There isnt any markings on the back of the tweeter that seem relevent, just the speaker manufactures logo and a number,
AR (acoustic research) followed by 1210068-0c and J73TNM. there wasnt any thing that said 8ohms etc.
The capacitor is 3uF +-10% rated for 50V.
I bought the audax drivers yesterday and tried to fit them to the existing cutouts, it turns out that im going to have to do some wood working afterall as the new drivers are just slightly too wide.
Thanks.
ps. its 3-0 at half time to england
AR (acoustic research) followed by 1210068-0c and J73TNM. there wasnt any thing that said 8ohms etc.
The capacitor is 3uF +-10% rated for 50V.
I bought the audax drivers yesterday and tried to fit them to the existing cutouts, it turns out that im going to have to do some wood working afterall as the new drivers are just slightly too wide.
Thanks.
ps. its 3-0 at half time to england
Kram:
it turns out that im going to have to do some wood working afterall as the new drivers are just slightly too wide.
Ouch!! Your cutout is 184 mm, your speaker needs 185.2 mm. A lousy 1.2 mm off, (less than 1/16")! Grrr. I knew I should have checked that spec, but it is located in a different part of the Audax website from the electrical specs.
Does the Audax at least lay in the indented area, assuming your box has one), surrounding the cutout? Or does the indented area have to be enlarged as well? Enlarging the indented area could be tricky. Before I come up with suggestions I would like to know if it is necessary. Give me some dimensions about the diameter of the indented area surrounding the cutout. The outside diameter of the Audax is 218 mm.
Oh well, maybe it doesn't matter that much. This seems to be the speaker that most meets your needs and budget at the moment regardless of cutout sizes.
I don't know if you have any woodworking tools, but if the 185.2 mm cutout is your only problem, small reciprocating saws-very inexpensive-are available. By inexpensive, I mean some places have them for $10 over here. Or maybe you can borrow one. Even a hand rasp will enlarge that cutout the small amount you need.
About the tweeter. Do you have a multimeter? If you don't, they have programs on the internet you can use to measure what a multimeter does. However, these programs require probes, which are not expensive, but maybe not necessary either. A multimeter would measure the DC resistance of the tweeter. An 8 ohm tweeter will have a resistance of 5 to 7 ohms.
Just for the heck of it, what is the model of speaker whose box you are using? Does it say 8 ohms or 4 ohms on the back, (or 8 or 4 followed by a funny looking circular symbol? I think most AR speakers were 8 ohms, but it is a good idea to check. If it is an 8 ohm speaker, it's an 8 ohm tweeter.
That 3 uF cpapacitor will cross an 8 ohm tweeter over around 6000 Hz with a gradual 6 dB crossover. That would appear to be too high for this woofer. Plus we don't know how low this tweeter will go before blowing.
On the other hand, we can just put in a larger value capacitor, ignore that anomaly in the woofer's response, and crossover at 3300 Hz. It won't be sonically optimal, but it will work-and sound-okay. Cost/benefit ratio, you know. If the tweeter blows, it blows. You are no worse off than if you go out and buy a tweeter right now. It's not like these dealers take trade-ins.
The only really big downside of the single capapcitor crossover approach is that anomaly around 2000-2800 Hz. If you can get past that, then I would point out that many expensive speaker manufacturers let the woofer roll of naturally, and put a single capacitor in series with the tweeter. They say that it gives smoother response that way-not as much phase shift.
If you want to spend a bit more and get a tweeter matched to the woofer, I think you might try making a separate thread about the crossover. I can do simple crossovers, but there are guys on this forum who are very good at them.
Moreover, since Audax is used so often in other brands' speaker boxes, there is a good chance that on the web, there is a diagram and schematic with this specific woofer crossing over to a specific Audax tweeter-many of which are not expensive. That would be a crossover worked on by an audio engineer. Some people here might give us links to such a setup.
Up around 2000 Hz or higher, the crossover components are relatively cheap. Woofers crossing over to midranges require expensive crossover components, woofers or midranges crossing over to tweeters require much less expensive ones. So a more sophisticated crossover might not be a budget-buster.
A single capacitor crossover will cost you almost nothing.
England up 3 goals at halftime, huh? It's going to be hard for them to lose that game.
it turns out that im going to have to do some wood working afterall as the new drivers are just slightly too wide.
Ouch!! Your cutout is 184 mm, your speaker needs 185.2 mm. A lousy 1.2 mm off, (less than 1/16")! Grrr. I knew I should have checked that spec, but it is located in a different part of the Audax website from the electrical specs.
Does the Audax at least lay in the indented area, assuming your box has one), surrounding the cutout? Or does the indented area have to be enlarged as well? Enlarging the indented area could be tricky. Before I come up with suggestions I would like to know if it is necessary. Give me some dimensions about the diameter of the indented area surrounding the cutout. The outside diameter of the Audax is 218 mm.
Oh well, maybe it doesn't matter that much. This seems to be the speaker that most meets your needs and budget at the moment regardless of cutout sizes.
I don't know if you have any woodworking tools, but if the 185.2 mm cutout is your only problem, small reciprocating saws-very inexpensive-are available. By inexpensive, I mean some places have them for $10 over here. Or maybe you can borrow one. Even a hand rasp will enlarge that cutout the small amount you need.
About the tweeter. Do you have a multimeter? If you don't, they have programs on the internet you can use to measure what a multimeter does. However, these programs require probes, which are not expensive, but maybe not necessary either. A multimeter would measure the DC resistance of the tweeter. An 8 ohm tweeter will have a resistance of 5 to 7 ohms.
Just for the heck of it, what is the model of speaker whose box you are using? Does it say 8 ohms or 4 ohms on the back, (or 8 or 4 followed by a funny looking circular symbol? I think most AR speakers were 8 ohms, but it is a good idea to check. If it is an 8 ohm speaker, it's an 8 ohm tweeter.
That 3 uF cpapacitor will cross an 8 ohm tweeter over around 6000 Hz with a gradual 6 dB crossover. That would appear to be too high for this woofer. Plus we don't know how low this tweeter will go before blowing.
On the other hand, we can just put in a larger value capacitor, ignore that anomaly in the woofer's response, and crossover at 3300 Hz. It won't be sonically optimal, but it will work-and sound-okay. Cost/benefit ratio, you know. If the tweeter blows, it blows. You are no worse off than if you go out and buy a tweeter right now. It's not like these dealers take trade-ins.
The only really big downside of the single capapcitor crossover approach is that anomaly around 2000-2800 Hz. If you can get past that, then I would point out that many expensive speaker manufacturers let the woofer roll of naturally, and put a single capacitor in series with the tweeter. They say that it gives smoother response that way-not as much phase shift.
If you want to spend a bit more and get a tweeter matched to the woofer, I think you might try making a separate thread about the crossover. I can do simple crossovers, but there are guys on this forum who are very good at them.
Moreover, since Audax is used so often in other brands' speaker boxes, there is a good chance that on the web, there is a diagram and schematic with this specific woofer crossing over to a specific Audax tweeter-many of which are not expensive. That would be a crossover worked on by an audio engineer. Some people here might give us links to such a setup.
Up around 2000 Hz or higher, the crossover components are relatively cheap. Woofers crossing over to midranges require expensive crossover components, woofers or midranges crossing over to tweeters require much less expensive ones. So a more sophisticated crossover might not be a budget-buster.
A single capacitor crossover will cost you almost nothing.
England up 3 goals at halftime, huh? It's going to be hard for them to lose that game.
Unfortunately i dont have a multimeter and there isnt anywhere at all (drivers/box/tweeter) on the speakers that says what impedance the they are. the model number of the speakers is AR18 BX 22429 i think.
I am going to try and make the cutouts bigger so the driver will fit and if i make a mess of it I will just make complete new front pannels for the box.
I would like to build crossovers but they dont have to be done immediately, i could make do with just a cap of a sutiable value for now.
As for the tweeters, will it be possable to stick with the ones ive got (for now at least) if i change the cap value? is there a possability they could be damaged? If sticking with the tweeters i have is a bad idea i will repalce them.
In an earlier post you asked for the amps power, my dad thinks its 70-80W if he remembers correctly.
thanks for your help
I am going to try and make the cutouts bigger so the driver will fit and if i make a mess of it I will just make complete new front pannels for the box.
I would like to build crossovers but they dont have to be done immediately, i could make do with just a cap of a sutiable value for now.
As for the tweeters, will it be possable to stick with the ones ive got (for now at least) if i change the cap value? is there a possability they could be damaged? If sticking with the tweeters i have is a bad idea i will repalce them.
In an earlier post you asked for the amps power, my dad thinks its 70-80W if he remembers correctly.
thanks for your help
Kram:
Well, we have an interesting situation here. Notice I said "interesting", not "expensive".
I have checked through the net about AR, (Acoustic Research, a very big brand over here), and found out a few things. On most of their speakers, they liked to cross over at 2000 Hz-just where we would like to-and on at least some models, if not most, they liked to let the woofer roll of without a crossover while the tweeter rolls of naturally to meet it. They include a single capacitor to abet the tweeter.
If they do it that way, then it is no surprise that the tweeter capacitor is a different value than I expected, since the tweeter would have a resonance at the crossover point.
Possibly, you might need a new tweeter. Maplins sells a good Audax for 11 pds each. But also just as possible, you might be able to use the tweeter in there, capacitor and all. You may need to put a small inductor and capacitor on the woofer.
Guess what? I have come across a forum that is devoted exclusively to restoring old AR speakers! You must remember, back in the fifties, sixties and seventies, AR speakers were considered just about the best around. I want to check my hunch with the people on that forum, some of whom either worked for the company, or have been involved with AR speakers in some form for decades. This shouldn't take longer than a day or so.
One thing I must know. Is that a dome tweeter you have there, or a cone tweeter? There were some AR 18's sold with cones-I am not certain about the 18bx. Believe it or not, there some big differences between various models of AR 18's.
Please let me know this as quickly as possible. You very well might be able to get out of this for just a couple of pds for an inexpensive crossover on the woofer, while keeping the tweeter's crossover intact.
By the way, AR, while based in Massachusetts, had a factory for a while in Arsenal. Is that anywhere near you?
Well, we have an interesting situation here. Notice I said "interesting", not "expensive".
I have checked through the net about AR, (Acoustic Research, a very big brand over here), and found out a few things. On most of their speakers, they liked to cross over at 2000 Hz-just where we would like to-and on at least some models, if not most, they liked to let the woofer roll of without a crossover while the tweeter rolls of naturally to meet it. They include a single capacitor to abet the tweeter.
If they do it that way, then it is no surprise that the tweeter capacitor is a different value than I expected, since the tweeter would have a resonance at the crossover point.
Possibly, you might need a new tweeter. Maplins sells a good Audax for 11 pds each. But also just as possible, you might be able to use the tweeter in there, capacitor and all. You may need to put a small inductor and capacitor on the woofer.
Guess what? I have come across a forum that is devoted exclusively to restoring old AR speakers! You must remember, back in the fifties, sixties and seventies, AR speakers were considered just about the best around. I want to check my hunch with the people on that forum, some of whom either worked for the company, or have been involved with AR speakers in some form for decades. This shouldn't take longer than a day or so.
One thing I must know. Is that a dome tweeter you have there, or a cone tweeter? There were some AR 18's sold with cones-I am not certain about the 18bx. Believe it or not, there some big differences between various models of AR 18's.
Please let me know this as quickly as possible. You very well might be able to get out of this for just a couple of pds for an inexpensive crossover on the woofer, while keeping the tweeter's crossover intact.
By the way, AR, while based in Massachusetts, had a factory for a while in Arsenal. Is that anywhere near you?
Here is one of the links for restoring AR speakers-there are lots of links coming off this one.
http://www.arsenal.net/speakers/ar/ar.htm
And here is the forum-I shall post on this shortly:
http://www.arsenal.net/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID1&conf=DCConfID1
Off of this site so far, I have come across all sorts of drawings and schematics for your speaker and it's AR cousins-it's a little like stepping back into audio history. This business of taking a broken old speaker and using it as a basis to either restore or improve upon for very little money is a lot of fun.
I don't know about you-but I'm having a blast with this!
http://www.arsenal.net/speakers/ar/ar.htm
And here is the forum-I shall post on this shortly:
http://www.arsenal.net/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID1&conf=DCConfID1
Off of this site so far, I have come across all sorts of drawings and schematics for your speaker and it's AR cousins-it's a little like stepping back into audio history. This business of taking a broken old speaker and using it as a basis to either restore or improve upon for very little money is a lot of fun.
I don't know about you-but I'm having a blast with this!
How do i tell if the tweeters are dome or cone, i dont know the difference
I have got one of the new drivers to fit the case, had to borrow a router from my uncle, its the first time ive used one and boy do they make a mess, dust all over the place hehehe and loud too.
I am from the North East of England, Arsenal is in the south, a part of london i think.
I am actually enjoying this too, appart from the spending money bit but who likes doing that anyway I cant wait to hear the speakers when they are finished.
thanks for you help.
I have got one of the new drivers to fit the case, had to borrow a router from my uncle, its the first time ive used one and boy do they make a mess, dust all over the place
hehehe and loud too.I am from the North East of England, Arsenal is in the south, a part of london i think.
I am actually enjoying this too, appart from the spending money bit but who likes doing that anyway
I cant wait to hear the speakers when they are finished.thanks for you help.
Kram:
AudioFreak is correct. A cone tweeter looks like a miniature woofer or midrange, complete with dust cap. The important thing is that the voice coil that drives the speaker is small, while the diaphragm that makes the sound is larger. The voice coil in the center drives the larger diaphragm, or "cone". So a 1.5" cone tweeter might have a .5" or even a .25" voice coil. the smaller the voice coil, the less power the tweeter can handle-heat buildup, you know.
On the dome, the voice coil drives the diaphragm around the outside. A 1' dome has 1" voice coil. This cuts down on vibration, etc. Also, domes can handle heat better, because their voice coils are as large as the diphragms they are driving.
Here are 2 Peerless tweeters-Peerless is one fo the few manufacturers that even makes a cone tweeter anymore. Most of Peerless' tweeters are domes. The cone tweeter is on the left, the dome is on the right.
AudioFreak is correct. A cone tweeter looks like a miniature woofer or midrange, complete with dust cap. The important thing is that the voice coil that drives the speaker is small, while the diaphragm that makes the sound is larger. The voice coil in the center drives the larger diaphragm, or "cone". So a 1.5" cone tweeter might have a .5" or even a .25" voice coil. the smaller the voice coil, the less power the tweeter can handle-heat buildup, you know.
On the dome, the voice coil drives the diaphragm around the outside. A 1' dome has 1" voice coil. This cuts down on vibration, etc. Also, domes can handle heat better, because their voice coils are as large as the diphragms they are driving.
Here are 2 Peerless tweeters-Peerless is one fo the few manufacturers that even makes a cone tweeter anymore. Most of Peerless' tweeters are domes. The cone tweeter is on the left, the dome is on the right.
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Actually, I think the AR tweeter is something similar to a dome. They call it a "compression tweeter", but it sure looks like something I have seen called an "inverted dome". It certainly looks like a dome that has been pushed in. I would imagine it has most of the same quality ies as a regular dome tweeter. since the size is the same and it the diaphragm appears to be driven around it's edge.
I shall check it out in the AR restoring forum.
Kram, is this what your tweeter looks like? This picture is from an AR 18, not an AR 18bx.
I shall check it out in the AR restoring forum.
Kram, is this what your tweeter looks like? This picture is from an AR 18, not an AR 18bx.
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Kram:
Although the AR restoring forum appears to be current, I had some trouble posting my tweeter questions there. I think there might be a glitch. I will try again tonight, or else I will Email the administrator there.
There is lots of expertise on this site too, but that site is devoted exclusively to AR speakers, and has people there who apparently worked for them. We should be able to find out all we need to know about AR tweeters!
Although the AR restoring forum appears to be current, I had some trouble posting my tweeter questions there. I think there might be a glitch. I will try again tonight, or else I will Email the administrator there.
There is lots of expertise on this site too, but that site is devoted exclusively to AR speakers, and has people there who apparently worked for them. We should be able to find out all we need to know about AR tweeters!
i think i have a dome tweeter but its quite hard to tell, maybe its one of those compression tweeter thingies.
The tweeter is mounted on a rectangular piece of plastic 124mm by 82mm, the tweeter has a plastic bar across the center running top to bottom, the diameter of the tweeter is 25mm and the diameter of the magnet (voice coil?) on the back is 35mm.
I hope this is of some help.
thanks.
The tweeter is mounted on a rectangular piece of plastic 124mm by 82mm, the tweeter has a plastic bar across the center running top to bottom, the diameter of the tweeter is 25mm and the diameter of the magnet (voice coil?) on the back is 35mm.
I hope this is of some help.
thanks.
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